Another quick question-  Does anyone know a supplier of the 4"x4"x3' foam that was under the floor?

Hey folks, my name is Chris and so's my wife's, hence the handle.   I've got a '75 Glastron CV21 w/ Berk 12JE and 455.  Here's how the build is going thus far.  Hull needs stripped and painting- the dimwit I bought this form in MI "did it his-self", that'll have to wait till later.

The pump I'm freshening up with a 17-4 shaft & inducer w/ a new aluminum "A" impeller plus all the normal stuff-i.e.- bearing, bushings, wear ring, gaskets etc.  It has a hydraulic place diverter with the switch moved up onto the wheel-gotta keep my hands where they're needed. Plus a hot foot on the floor.

The motor was a three point mount but I am chaning that to a four point mount w/ Hardin front and rear mountings.  The block that was in there was all goofed up by captain bung-hole so that sits in the corner.  The block I sent to the machine shop and am awaiting its return is a '71 455 w/ a .010" overbore.  New Diamond custom forged 11.35:1 slugs w/ Eagle 6.735" H-beam rods.  The crank is pristine and will be milled to allot for the increased clearances I am running on the rods and mains. 

The mains got new Dick Miller billet steel main caps on 1-4 along with a 5 cap halo, all studded of course.  The block was milled to accomodate these and align honed, decked to clean up the surface and set the RA for cometic MLS gaskets, torque plate bored and honed.  The heads are ProComp aluminum w/ Farrea 2.07" intakes and 1.71" exhausts w/ Comp cams double springs (288lb open seat press.) Harland Sharp 1.6:1 rollers w/ guide plates, Hydraulic-Roller lifters and I haven't picked a cam yet.

Probably in the 305 duration .595" lift on a 112-114 LSA arena, and a gear drive up front.  Edelbrock Victor intake with a 1050 Dominator up top. 

Once I have it in and the driveline angles set, I'll get the measurements off to Bassett for a set of thru transom 4" headers.  Mallory Hyfire to light it.  Next winter I'm installing Autometer Phantom II gauges.

I'm in the midst of replacing the stringers right now and have the all the old stuff torn out and am in need of advice in this arena.

What would should I use to replace the stringers- Red Oak, pressure treat pine, poplar, spruce, and no I cannot afford teak wood.  Also, what epoxy would you recommend to bond them in?

Here are some pics of the purple people eater ( I hate the color) and the proposed set up.
Some help here would be appreciated 

Nice project.  Seems like you are a man with a plan and you're well on your way.  As far as the stringer question, I use kiln dried Doug fir, straight cut, not the shit from Home Cheapo!  West Systems is nice stuff, but IMO it's overkill, and expensive.  I don't think any builders are using it, but I could be wrong.  I use polyester resin, same as the boat manufacturer used when they built it.   I use 3M 5200 adhesive to bed my stringers.  I fit them as close as possible to the hull shape, then apply a bed of the 5200.  I put some weight on them for a day then your ready to cover them.  I use micro balloons mixed in resin to create a paste the consistency of smooth peanut butter.  Mix it to consistency before adding your catalyst.   Then I use this to make a nice radius between the hull and the bottom of the stringers.  Use a bondo spreader or a putty knife, then wipe with your finger like applying caulk.  This helps the glass to lay flat and minimize air bubbles.    If your going to carpet them, I would use 1.5 or 2oz chopped strand, two or three layer's.  If you're going to leave them exposed, then maybe you want to use cloth instead, just looks better. I like to over lap my layer's.  Do one off the floor and up the sides of stringer to the top.  Then do the next over the top covering your first layer going down to the bottom.   Make sure you have a laminating roller to remove the air bubbles.  It's not to hard if you keep your area size workable and don't get ahead of yourself.  Wipe everything really good with acetone, wet out the fiberglass, roll out the air bubbles and squeegee excessive resin, repeat.

This is how I do it.  There are other people who do it different and get very nice results, so look around and see what seems right to you, after all it's your baby.  Good luck, Greg.

P.S. I agree about not replacing the foam.  There's better way's if you want to add floatation.

Damn! I gotta check back more often to get the questions answered faster but here it goes......
1)  The compression ratio is calculative, stock compression distance w/ Diamond forged flat-tops w/ 3.2cc reliefs.  77cc chambers but, heads were decked to clean and set RA, and are now around 76cc.
2)  The Harland Sharp rockers are the best for any Olds engine on a budget in lieu of shaft mounted.  The have the best shaped pushrod cup out there- Crane has the worst.  I used to be a land-lubber w/ a 1400HP/830lbft. 468 in a 76 cutlass w/ a 4spd Lenco, pulled 9.73 @ 141 w/ a 3980lb car.
3)  The cam LSA (lobe seperation angle) of 112-114 degrees is less overlap than a 108 or 110, dropping the amount of reversion that occurs, not eliminating it, but lessening it.
4)  The headers, thru transom, I am contemplating moving their 4" outlets up about 11" from their stock location.  This would put them above the swim platform, but still well below the top of the transom.
5)  The procomp heads are a decent head for the money, and have plenty of material to work with on massaging the passages and port matching.  I've changed the valve/seat angles from 30 degrees to 45 degrees to pick up a little more on top end.  They don't flow as high as a thoroughly massaged set of Ebrocks, but do nicely.  The original Ga heads I've done a lot of work to but still need more money in them than I want to put.
6)  Because of the short suction housing is why it's necessary to assist feeding the impellar w/ an inducer.  I will be putting in, at a later date, a SS high helix impellar.  I just don't have 1300.00 for one right now.

My first jet was a '79 CVX 20 w/ a 460 and an E pump..........wish I hadn't gotten rid of her.  I got her for what the guy owed on it 8K, and only 16 hours.  Damn that first wife of mine.....bitch.