SoCal Jet Boats
Tech Talk => Trailers => Topic started by: beerjet on July 18, 2011, 06:26:51 PM
-
So my dr tells me he takes his boat to the gas station and notices that one side got really hot.
its an inline actuator, 23' I/O w/disc brakes.
I told him to make sure the actuator was pulled out when he parks it but I couldn't tell him why one side was running hot or how to get it unstuck, if that was even the case.
Any suggestions?
-beerjet-
-
Sticky caliper...Need to pull the Calipers off check them, if pads are worn, replace the whole ball of cheese...Already did mine. :screwy:
http://www.dhmtrailers.com/online/home.php?cat=95 (http://www.dhmtrailers.com/online/home.php?cat=95) Pretty cheap if you shop around....
For the coupler... http://www.ufpnet.com/Portals/0/PDFs/CouplerMaint.PDF (http://www.ufpnet.com/Portals/0/PDFs/CouplerMaint.PDF)
GT
-
Sticky caliper...Need to pull the Calipers off check them, if pads are worn, replace the whole ball of cheese...Already did mine. :screwy:
http://www.dhmtrailers.com/online/home.php?cat=95 (http://www.dhmtrailers.com/online/home.php?cat=95) Pretty cheap if you shop around....
For the coupler... http://www.ufpnet.com/Portals/0/PDFs/CouplerMaint.PDF (http://www.ufpnet.com/Portals/0/PDFs/CouplerMaint.PDF)
GT
Agreed. Sticky caliper. Rule of thumb I have always done is replace the rubber hoses, flush and replace all fluid anytime you replace calipers on anything. Heated caliper heat fluid, heats and softens rubber hoses, breaks down fluid.....etc, etc. Just cheap insurance. :thumbup:
Replace pads also and check the rotors carefully or have a brake shop do it.
Ray
On a trailer, just a suggestion I did on my old Biesemeyer trailer, was put a set of BIGwheel chocks behind the rear tires and back it up into them. Then had a bud of mine open the bleeder screws on each side momentarily to verify the coupler cylinder was working.
-
Agreed. Sticky caliper. Rule of thumb I have always done is replace the rubber hoses, flush and replace all fluid anytime you replace calipers on anything. Heated caliper heat fluid, heats and softens rubber hoses, breaks down fluid.....etc, etc. Just cheap insurance. :thumbup:
Replace pads also and check the rotors carefully or have a brake shop do it.
Ray
On a trailer, just a suggestion I did on my old Biesemeyer trailer, was put a set of BIGwheel chocks behind the rear tires and back it up into them. Then had a bud of mine open the bleeder screws on each side momentarily to verify the coupler cylinder was working.
Ray, he was talking trailer disc brakes....
Here is a tip for you so you don't kill somebody.. ;) Pull a receiver ball mount off the truck and put it in the coupler on the surge brake trailer, use the leverage of the ball mount to apply pressure to the brake actuator, works like a champ...On the later model square one I use a bar clamp like for doing woodworking, works killer.. :thumbup:
GT
-
Ray, he was talking trailer disc brakes....
Here is a tip for you so you don't kill somebody.. ;) Pull a receiver ball mount off the truck and put it in the coupler on the surge brake trailer, use the leverage of the ball mount to apply pressure to the brake actuator, works like a champ...On the later model square one I use a bar clamp like for doing woodworking, works killer.. :thumbup:
GT
What's the fun in that? Damn it Glen, leave us to our redneck ways.
Oh...and what the trick to backing a surge brake trailer up a hill when there's no lockout?....my clutch will thank you for the answer to this one...
-
What's the fun in that? Damn it Glen, leave us to our redneck ways.
Oh...and what the trick to backing a surge brake trailer up a hill when there's no lockout?....my clutch will thank you for the answer to this one...
Free back backing plates.... 8)
On the Attwood master I can show you how to make a lock out. It is actually quite simple. :thumbup:
-
i just carried a 6 inch by 5/8 carriage bolt that we stuck in the sliding hitch to prevent it from sliding back and engaging the brakes worked tits :thumbup: