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jamminjetta

  • Karma: +1/-0
Surge brakes
« on: August 28, 2014, 09:04:07 PM »
Ok here goes. 1987 competition trailer with surge brakes. Sure seems like a lot of play in my hitch when I stop. Could it be out of fluid? How do I check? If so do they have to be bled? 

Thanks Wade


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crewchief22

  • Karma: +66/-0
Re: Surge brakes
« Reply #1 on: August 28, 2014, 09:46:04 PM »
I found this with a quick google search.  Hope it helps.


How to Bleed Hydraulic Surge Trailer Brakes

Remove the master cylinder cap and fill the reservoir to three quarters full with DOT-3 brake fluid. DO NOT allow brake fluid to contact painted surfaces since it will damage the finish. Wipe up any spills immediately and wash the area with water.

If you choose to manually bleed the system, an assistant makes the job easier. Disconnect the trailer from the tow vehicle and hook the safety chains (NOT the actuator breakaway cable) together to form a loop. The loop should be centered below the actuators coupler.

Place a sturdy board such as a 2 x 4 into the safety chain loop below the coupler. The board should be four feet long or more so it will extend well above the actuator. Position the board to press against the front end of the actuator’s coupler and use it to force the coupler case into the actuators outer housing. This pumps the brake fluid into the trailer braking system. Manually pull the coupler case back to fully extended position and repeat the process.

When the air bubbling stops inside the master cylinder, install a bleeder hose on the bleeder screw of the first wheel cylinder to be bled. Start with the rear axle on tandem axle trailers. Submerge the other end of the hose in a glass container of brake fluid so that air bubbles can be observed. Open the bleeder screw one turn before pushing the coupler case in. When the coupler is pushed completely in, the bleeder screw should be closed to prevent air from being pulled back into the system. Air trapped in the brake lines will greatly reduce your braking efficiency. Repeat this process until no more bubbles are released with each stroke. Be sure to close the bleeder screw securely.

Repeat the bleeding operation at each wheel cylinder. During the bleeding process, replenish the brake fluid so the level does not fall below half full level in the master cylinder reservoir. When bleeding is complete, fill the reservoir to within 3/8 inches of the top. Install the filler cap securely.


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GT Jets

  • Karma: +192/-0
Re: Surge brakes
« Reply #2 on: August 28, 2014, 10:28:24 PM »
What coupling do you have?

The little short Attwood, the gnarly Dico or the sleek little Unique?

They pretty much all have the fill plugs in the top, just pop the top and peek in the hole. Grab a Popsicle stick or something to "dip" the fluid to make sure it is actually fluid. There is a chance it is water. Normally if they are out of fluid, the master gets filled with water.

They all have different "issues". Many times it is the small shock absorber or the bushings... They can get pretty friggen loose.

I refuse to fill them with Dot 3, I use Dot 5 silicone.

Dot 3 mostly consists of alcohol and has an affinity for water (read;rust), whereas Dot 5 is silicone.

You cannot mix them, it will gel up. But in the case that you did lose the fluid through a wheel cylinder, just buy everything and change it over to Dot 5.

Hope this helps.

GT
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If i get some free time tonight at work, ill play with it and post it for everyone to see.

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Ray

GT Jets

  • Karma: +192/-0
Re: Surge brakes
« Reply #3 on: August 28, 2014, 10:31:24 PM »
By far the easiest way to bleed them is to use a motorcycle bleeder fitting and pop the ball mount from your receiver hitch in the couple and use it like a lever... Simply pump the ball mount up and down and keep filling the reservoir with the auto bleeder on the furthest wheel, then the closest... Keep going until the fluid comes out clear... Not brown.

GT
  • Boat #1: 1992 Carrera 20.5 Elite (I/O bitches)
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If i get some free time tonight at work, ill play with it and post it for everyone to see.

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Ray

GT Jets

  • Karma: +192/-0
Re: Surge brakes
« Reply #4 on: August 28, 2014, 11:45:57 PM »
In case the comment about the brake bleeder flew over your heads...

http://www.motorcycle-superstore.com/4935/i/motion-pro-hydraulic-brake-bleeder
  • Boat #1: 1992 Carrera 20.5 Elite (I/O bitches)
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Ray

jamminjetta

  • Karma: +1/-0
Re: Surge brakes
« Reply #5 on: August 29, 2014, 12:08:57 AM »
Maybe this pic will help ya GT


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rush1

  • Karma: +18/-0
Re: Surge brakes
« Reply #6 on: August 29, 2014, 01:59:25 PM »
Why not just use on of these bleeders.
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JARVIS

  • Karma: +18/-0
Re: Surge brakes
« Reply #7 on: August 29, 2014, 04:44:49 PM »
you can say i went full retard  :screwy:....but ive never had success bleeding brakes with that tool.

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GT Jets

  • Karma: +192/-0
Re: Surge brakes
« Reply #8 on: August 29, 2014, 06:02:49 PM »
Maybe this pic will help ya GT


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That is the Atwood. If there is rust in there you can buy a master cylinder for about $80. This is not a very durable design.

Let me know if you need help.  I can likely walk you through it.

GT

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  • Boat #1: 1992 Carrera 20.5 Elite (I/O bitches)
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If i get some free time tonight at work, ill play with it and post it for everyone to see.

Time to man up and yank it John!  :banghead:
Ray

 


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