SoCal Jet Boats
Discussion => The No Wake Zone => WarZone => Topic started by: jbrundahl3@yahoo.com on April 03, 2015, 01:58:05 PM
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Hi y'all its a newbie question. Should you start your boat after you pull it out of the water for a few seconds? Not sure if it would damage the pump or worse?
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The less you run the pump without water in it the better. Any reason why you need to start it?
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I think what he means is, he is trying to flush the stuff out as soon as he loads it on the trailer from the water. Till he get home and connects a water hose to it.
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If you are trying to just flush out the lake water, running your engine won't do anything. Unless you have a water pump on your engine, the jet pump acts as your water pump and with it out of the water the only pressure you'll get is from the hose anyway.
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I pull them out running. ....
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Once I'm on the trailer, before I leave, I start it up, rev it once or twice to get the river stuff out. Then flush with a water hose at my buddies house for about 4-5 minutes with a couple of revs, then park it in my storage unit.
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Thank you for the replies yes I was wondering if I should start it to flush any river stuff out before I stored it.
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I usually just floor it and point it at the beach until it's parked.
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I have been doing it for the 10 plus years on my boat and my pump is still stock and have had 0 issues
SRC 🚤💨
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Why the fsck are you a hero and I'm only senior? I'm going to lodge a complaint with the administrators of this damn website. Also, I usually open up the inspection plate and toss some rocks and sand in there before I fire it up, if it can't survive that, then that jet is a pu$$y and should be put down.
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Why the fsck are you a hero and I'm only senior? I'm going to lodge a complaint with the administrators of this damn website. Also, I usually open up the inspection plate and toss some rocks and sand in there before I fire it up, if it can't survive that, then that jet is a pu$$y and should be put down.
just means u gotta spend more time on the site and post more.
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I have been doing it for the 10 plus years on my boat and my pump is still stock and have had 0 issues
SRC 🚤💨
I thought the same thing...then I had my pump apart and measured the wear ring- ~.125", total slop, about .062" per side.
I went with an American Turbine AA impeller, from the Berk A2, and was set at .010"-.012" per side, from Berk specs, and about .018" front-to-rear (Original pump had 5 or 6 seasons on it, built by G.S. Marine)
The pump still turned 4900, (5K in good air), but the hole shot was ridiculous, and gained ~2 mph on top end. (It coulda been the Bimini top down, too)
And NO, I will not start it on the trailer, only in the water. (But, I built my pump, and know what's inside it.)
If the OP's pump is a WJ, with the plastic wear ring, I wouldn't start it out of the water either.
Golden Eagle's (YJ's) and Panthers don't seem to care. Most jet boats will drain backwards to the level of the (engine) water pump ports by gravity, unless it has a pressure regulator on the system, so less than a gallon of water in the engine, and the logs usually drain dry, or close to it.
Will it hurt it?...Probably not
Will it help it?...No
And with a Rockwell style driveline, I cannot (easily) disconnect the driveline/pump.
Just my $0.02
Dan'l
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Thank you for the reply, I will just let it drain on its own on the ramp then. I bought a 89 ultra open bow boat last year and wasn't sure if you needed to flush out the water in it or not. It has a berk pump and snails.
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If you are worried about the water in the block, install some drain plugs in the block. If the engine is covered, you can plumb the two sides into a T and then to a convenient location where it will be plugged until time to drain.
Cheers,
Joe
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Well this thread helped me out. Now I am going to run it on the hose but just keep the driveline disconnected while we do the initial start and tune on the new rebuild.