455 olds head questions

« **on:** May 11, 2016, 10:14:07 AM »

Hey there, new to this site and boats, picked up a 72 Sanger with a built up 455, not sure what's all done to it but dude claimed 500hp and it was built by Rex Hutchinson out of Sacramento.. Took the boat out once and she blew a head gasket, started leaking water at the mating surface.. Tore it down over the weekend, had a bad valve looked like it got hit by something, no piston damage.. But between the valves there were cracks in the heads. They are "c" heads, found some "g" heads that I'm gonna get checked and cleaned up, anyway what do I need to do to the new heads to get them ready for a boat? I've been reading about enlarging the oil drain back holes? Is there anything else I should do? Thanks

« **Reply #1 on:** May 11, 2016, 10:48:05 AM »

The C heads are the only heads worth any money, save them if you can. All the other versions are pretty comparable in their lack of performance. Good luck getting it back together. There are many other mods to the oiling system, they are on here somewhere but you will have to search a bit. Scooping some of the crank oiling holes comes to mind, and not using a high pressure pump.

« **Reply #2 on:** May 11, 2016, 11:17:12 AM »

I have a extra set of c casting heads if u run into a problem with yours..

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« **Reply #3 on:** May 11, 2016, 03:49:22 PM »

So performance wise should I look into getting the c's fixed?

« **Reply #4 on:** May 11, 2016, 05:49:38 PM »

U want a set of good c casting heads ?

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« **Reply #5 on:** May 11, 2016, 05:59:29 PM »

Pic

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« **Reply #6 on:** May 11, 2016, 06:24:51 PM »

Opinions are like butts, everyone has one. But to paint with a broad brush, all Olds heads flow poorly if you are looking for high performance. They were never (well almost never) engineered to make big rpm or hp numbers. They were made to move Grandpa and his 4000 lb. couch down the road with no drama. Yes you can port them but it is lipstick on a pig.

The exception is the "C" head. This is the one that often came on the 442 Cutlass. It is really the only factory head that works well, and the drag race and resto car guys will pay enough for a good set to buy you some Ebrocks. However if you get serious about buying aluminum heads for an Olds, there are better choices than Edelbrock for sure. But they cost.

Unless you are spending a ton of money on hopping up your Olds, don't spend too much time worrying about which factory iron head to use. I have usually been told to avoid "J" for low compression/smog design. But if you can save your "C" or find another, they are the way to go. Again, these opinions are worth exactly what you paid for them LOL

« **Reply #7 on:** May 11, 2016, 08:39:17 PM »

Lol, yea all my buddies say if I want real power ditch the 455 and go with a bbc.. I'm not in the market to go aluminum heads just too spendy for me at this time, how much do you want for those c cast heads kona? Ballpark range of how much a repair shop would want to fix the heads I have? Visibly there are 5 chambers cracked between the in/ex valves, thanks for the input guys!

« **Reply #8 on:** May 11, 2016, 09:24:34 PM »

100 bucks
And don't ditch the olds they make good power ... Just sayin .... Watch my turd olds run ... Just got to build them right ... Lip stick on a fast pig lol

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« **Reply #9 on:** May 11, 2016, 09:36:40 PM »

Quote from: 69kona on May 11, 2016, 09:24:34 PM

100 bucks
And don't ditch the olds they make good power ... Just sayin .... Watch my turd olds run ... Just got to build them right ... Lip stick on a fast pig lol

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X2

« **Reply #10 on:** May 11, 2016, 09:40:54 PM »

Nice .. Set up ... Getting close?

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« **Reply #11 on:** May 11, 2016, 10:46:43 PM »

Wish I knew more about the engine itself, performer intake, double pumper Holley, gnarly cam of some sort, Pistons from what I can see aren't stock, as well it's got good springs in it. she was movin pretty good at 4500rpm, at 3/4 throttle, if I gave it any more it would backfire through the carb, I'm guessing that was from the bad intake valve and dirty carb. Thanks 69kona I'll keep you in mind I'm gonna get some prices from a machine shop to see if they're salvageable, can't wait to get it back together since there's some actual water in the lakes now LOL

« **Reply #12 on:** May 12, 2016, 06:22:12 AM »

No problem there here if u need them
Already checked for cracks

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« **Reply #13 on:** May 12, 2016, 10:44:52 AM »

Anything done to those heads? Oil modifications? That you know of 69kona

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« **Reply #14 on:** May 12, 2016, 06:57:33 PM »

http://www.socaljetboats.com/engines/high-perf-olds-455-parts/msg170705/#msg170705

Good set of Edelbrocks and other Olds parts still available.

« **Reply #15 on:** May 21, 2016, 07:12:38 AM »

I jumped on here to throw this out: just put my 455 back together and she won't fire. I'm not sure if I messed up but should the valves be lashed? I don't know squat about these motors so I need some guidance.

« **Reply #16 on:** May 21, 2016, 08:38:21 PM »

Quote from: Alaskan Hondo Runner on May 21, 2016, 07:12:38 AM

I jumped on here to throw this out: just put my 455 back together and she won't fire. I'm not sure if I messed up but should the valves be lashed? I don't know squat about these motors so I need some guidance.

Quote from: Rebelboater530 on May 11, 2016, 10:14:07 AM

Hey there, new to this site and boats, picked up a 72 Sanger with a built up 455, not sure what's all done to it but dude claimed 500hp and it was built by Rex Hutchinson out of Sacramento.. Took the boat out once and she blew a head gasket, started leaking water at the mating surface.. Tore it down over the weekend, had a bad valve looked like it got hit by something, no piston damage.. But between the valves there were cracks in the heads. They are "c" heads, found some "g" heads that I'm gonna get checked and cleaned up, anyway what do I need to do to the new heads to get them ready for a boat? I've been reading about enlarging the oil drain back holes? Is there anything else I should do? Thanks

These are "must" reading for Olds owners .

« **Reply #17 on:** May 22, 2016, 09:59:04 AM »

Quote from: Alaskan Hondo Runner on May 21, 2016, 07:12:38 AM

I jumped on here to throw this out: just put my 455 back together and she won't fire. I'm not sure if I messed up but should the valves be lashed? I don't know squat about these motors so I need some guidance.

Depends on the cam, is it solid or hydraulic? Solid cams require setting lash, hydraulic cams require preload to set the plunger. Around 1/2 to 1 turn depending who you ask. I go 1/2 turn. And did you get the firing order right lol.

« **Reply #18 on:** May 22, 2016, 11:35:29 AM »

I never pulled or altered the distributor so I just assumed timing would not be affected. Just pulled valve covers and triple checked head/rocker torque.
Hydraulic lifters but I didn't submerge them in oil and load them when I reinstalled them. Maybe that is the issue?

« **Reply #19 on:** May 22, 2016, 12:10:28 PM »

Quote from: Alaskan Hondo Runner on May 22, 2016, 11:35:29 AM

I never pulled or altered the distributor so I just assumed timing would not be affected. Just pulled valve covers and triple checked head/rocker torque.
Hydraulic lifters but I didn't submerge them in oil and load them when I reinstalled them. Maybe that is the issue?

The 455 distributor is one of the easiest to remove and replace. You can pre oil the motor and check for pressure by turning the oil pump shaft with a drill and socket (usually counterclockwise). See the pic please of the bottom of the gear. It is not like a Chevy where you can easily be one tooth off. Just mark where your distributor is set at now. Turn the motor so the rotor is at 12 o'clock, and remove the distributor. Get your drill out and pre-lube. As far as the valve adjust, post up a pic of your rockers. Do you have stock rockers or adjustable?

« **Reply #20 on:** May 22, 2016, 12:14:23 PM »

This guy has stock rockers (see expanded pic). For this style of rocker, generally you just torque them down to the head at 25lbs. Is this what you have?

« **Reply #21 on:** May 22, 2016, 12:55:15 PM »

My bad , I'm used to Chevys and adjusting the jamnut/poly locks.

« **Reply #22 on:** May 22, 2016, 04:23:27 PM »

Stock rockers are on these heads. Ka is stamped so not sure if these are destined to be worth messing with. When I ran it last summer, water showed up in the cylinders but none in the pan. I'm concerned , but water was on top of all the Pistons. Never seen both heads crack before.
By the way, I appreciate your input. It eases the frustration.

« **Reply #23 on:** May 22, 2016, 09:28:34 PM »

Quote from: Alaskan Hondo Runner on May 22, 2016, 04:23:27 PM

Stock rockers are on these heads. Ka is stamped so not sure if these are destined to be worth messing with. When I ran it last summer, water showed up in the cylinders but none in the pan. I'm concerned , but water was on top of all the Pistons. Never seen both heads crack before.
By the way, I appreciate your input. It eases the frustration.

What kind of exhaust are you running? Any chance of reversion? Or running it on the hose before starting the motor? If you have headers, have you checked to make sure the Basset "T" is not stuck open?

« **Reply #24 on:** May 22, 2016, 09:36:37 PM »

Yeah, I'm running Bassett headers and like you mentioned, the T was one of the things I checked. Reversion was my initial concern. I'm gonna try and get her fired up tomorrow. Thanks so much for your info. Hopefully I can post a picture of success!

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