alternator mounting

« **on:** January 09, 2008, 03:22:43 PM »

i need some help/input with mounting my alternator, i have never run one before so i do not have any brackets, all the mounts i have looked at want to mount the alternator right where my motor plate is or way up high by the valve cover (up high is not an option, doesn't look right), i don't think there is enough room in the tunnel to put it low, by the oil pan, does somebody make a stringer mount??, any pics or ideas would be appreciated, here are a couple pics of what i am dealing with, i will try to get some better ones tonight, thanks in advance, bill

« **Reply #1 on:** January 09, 2008, 03:51:15 PM »

here is a pic of my buddys boat we mounted it off the head and dosnt look too bad.....

oh....wanna race?

« **Reply #2 on:** January 09, 2008, 03:57:55 PM »

I've seen some trick direct drive alternators, I think it was on Brendella Jet's brendella. I've been having a hell of a time keeping my belt on, and no one seems to sell marine alternator brackets, at least not for a ford

« **Reply #3 on:** January 09, 2008, 04:16:56 PM »

Quote from: CHROMEY on January 09, 2008, 03:51:15 PM

here is a pic of my buddys boat we mounted it off the head and dosnt look too bad.....

oh....wanna race?

i'll race anything on the water, i don't care what the hell it is or how fast you think it is!!!!!!!!!!

as long as it doesn't go over 50mph

and i get a head start

« **Reply #4 on:** January 09, 2008, 04:24:15 PM »

sure why not.....head start will be fine, i sleep @ the light anyway

ill try to get over there this weekend and take some closer pics, or at least find out what brackets he has!

« **Reply #5 on:** January 09, 2008, 06:29:27 PM »

Mine was made by ironman44bear. He made a pivot bracket out of 6061 aluminum and we bolted that to a piece of angle aluminum mounted to the outside of the starboard stringer. He slotted the mounting bolt holes to make it adjustable front and rear for proper belt alignment with the crank pulley.

He then made a turn buckle that spans from the alternator to the cylinder head to make belt tension adjustment a breeze.

« **Reply #6 on:** January 09, 2008, 07:16:35 PM »

chromey, some pics would be great, and as far as racing him, i think he is probably over the 50mph clause

jet-if you could get a pic of your set up for me it would help alot, i have a friend that can fab alot of shit up, i just need to bring him and idea of what i want.

i got a couple more pics tonight of what i am working with

thanks for the help guys

« **Reply #7 on:** January 09, 2008, 08:56:02 PM »

ForkedUp, the hole on the right side of your motor plate was intended to be the alternator pivot. You will have more room for the alt on that side as the exhaust on that side sits an inch or two further back. You might even consider using one of the mini- or ultra-mini alternators to help with the fit issue. It is nice to see you have a marine-equipped version of the GM 10SI alternator, though.

« **Reply #8 on:** January 10, 2008, 07:19:47 AM »

If you don't plan on running a radio, you can get away without the alternator. Just be sure to get a good deep cycle battery and charge it every time you get home.

Powermaster shows a spacer kit for a low mount alternator with a motorplate, if you have room.
http://www.powermastermotorsports.com/racing_accessories.html

« **Reply #9 on:** January 10, 2008, 07:44:34 AM »

Quote from: crewchief22 on January 10, 2008, 07:19:47 AM

If you don't plan on running a radio, you can get away without the alternator. Just be sure to get a good deep cycle battery and charge it every time you get home.

True...however, there's absolutely no reason not to run an alternator.

« **Reply #10 on:** January 10, 2008, 09:29:36 AM »

oldsquirt, i always thought that hole was incase a mechanical fuel pump is run (clearance)??
thanks for the link crew, i think i can make some spacers like that and probably get it to work, i might go to the right side though like oldsquirt said, so i don't have to make them as long, i will not be running a radio, as i have said i have never run an alternator before and only had a problem one time, after that i swore never again and the father in law hooked me up with a free alternator so why not... went to lake pleasant here in phoenix right before boat was taken apart for paint, went to the back cover where everyone parties, mostly rich kids in their big sleeks and magics, well they start swamping me pretty bad, bilges are running like crazy, try to start the boat to move and now it does not want to start, oh f***, houston we have a problem and alot of water on board, now my battery is dead (optima), luckily a nice fisherman had a jump box and a spare battery, hooked both up to my battery to get it to start (all 3 tunnels are full of water at this point and its up to the seats), get boat started and haul ass, the x-tra battery and jump box got me back to the dock, but screwed my floor in the process, since then i swore it would get an alternator when it went back together.

« **Reply #11 on:** January 10, 2008, 10:31:15 AM »

Forked theres a couple of easy solutions eg fabricate brackets and mount the alt backwards or ,if room drive it off the crank (kits are fairly reasonable) or call or post if you need other suggestions Tom
Although I run my flat with no alt (two optimas bats) , MSD Electronic ignitions for example "like" a constant voltage of 13+ volts ,but will work as low as 9 and as high as 18 (i edited this to add a pic of a recent Alt mount we did as well photo 2)

« **Reply #12 on:** January 10, 2008, 01:28:59 PM »

that hole on the plate is the pivot hole,cp has a top curved piece that bolts in the threaded boss on the block and works perfect.

« **Reply #13 on:** January 10, 2008, 01:34:25 PM »

Quote from: VAMI on January 10, 2008, 01:28:59 PM

that hole on the plate is the pivot hole,cp has a top curved piece that bolts in the threaded boss on the block and works perfect.

That usually only works if you're using the old style of mounts and not a rail kit. I don't think I've seen engine plates for a rail kit that have a provision to mount the alternator.

I had one of those "crank mounted" alternators in my Mach 1. Exactly the same as the purple one in the picture that Tom posted. I never did get it to work in my boat but a electrical shop told me it was good. ? It looked pretty cool. For an alternator it took up a lot of interior room though. I sold it and bought a mini alternator that I'm going to try to use instead, that is if I ever get another engine in it.

« **Reply #14 on:** January 10, 2008, 06:42:00 PM »

If you change to a magnito , the battery is purley to start , not to run. And they look cool as hell.

« **Reply #15 on:** January 10, 2008, 07:28:51 PM »

Quote from: FORKEDUP on January 10, 2008, 09:29:36 AM

oldsquirt, i always thought that hole was incase a mechanical fuel pump is run (clearance)??
thanks for the link crew, i think i can make some spacers like that and probably get it to work, i might go to the right side though like oldsquirt said, so i don't have to make them as long,

I was referring to the small hole above and to the outside of the fuel pump "window".

« **Reply #16 on:** January 10, 2008, 07:31:48 PM »

Quote from: hotrod56cars on January 10, 2008, 01:34:25 PM

That usually only works if you're using the old style of mounts and not a rail kit. I don't think I've seen engine plates for a rail kit that have a provision to mount the alternator.

That is EXACTLY what that particular hole in the front plate is for and CP's adjuster bracket should work perfectly.

« **Reply #17 on:** January 12, 2008, 01:52:23 PM »

thanks for all the help guys, i have not replied to this for a couple of days because i have not had a chance to get out into the garage to check something........... understand i have completely taken apart and reassembled this boat twice now by myself. when everyone started talking about this hole in the mount i was like there is no hole there that is just a reflextion..i had to wait until i could get in the garage and actually check

with all the time i have spent on this f'n thing i have NEVER noticed that little fuking hole, its amazing how when i hold the alternator up to it everything lines up, should be a rather simple install. thank you to everyone for the info and the lesson it was a tremendous help, i look forward to meeting all of you at the gathering

« **Reply #18 on:** January 12, 2008, 03:21:23 PM »

Quote from: FORKEDUP on January 12, 2008, 01:52:23 PM

thanks for all the help guys, i have not replied to this for a couple of days because i have not had a chance to get out into the garage to check something........... understand i have completely taken apart and reassembled this boat twice now by myself. when everyone started talking about this hole in the mount i was like there is no hole there that is just a reflextion..i had to wait until i could get in the garage and actually check with all the time i have spent on this f'n thing i have NEVER noticed that little fuking hole, its amazing how when i hold the alternator up to it everything lines up, should be a rather simple install. thank you to everyone for the info and the lesson it was a tremendous help, i look forward to meeting all of you at the gathering

Pic please.

« **Reply #19 on:** January 19, 2008, 05:59:14 PM »

ok alternator is mounted, now for the wire going to the starter, is 10ga wire enough or should i run a thicker wire, thanks again in advance---bill

i will get pics as soon as wires are run----will happen tonight

« **Reply #20 on:** January 19, 2008, 07:00:13 PM »

never mind, jetaholic answered it in the "wiring diagram" thread====thanks

« **Reply #21 on:** January 19, 2008, 07:21:56 PM »

Quote from: FORKEDUP on January 19, 2008, 07:00:13 PM

never mind, jetaholic answered it in the "wiring diagram" thread====thanks

Where's that at?

« **Reply #22 on:** January 19, 2008, 07:29:46 PM »

hope i do this right
http://www.socaljetboats.com/index.php?topic=2326.0

it was his article on a jet boat wiring harness, in it it is specified 16ga unless otherwise stated, alt is listed as 8ga

« **Reply #23 on:** January 19, 2008, 08:22:19 PM »

IMO
If you're using an extra starter solenoid, as in that wiring diagram shows an extra solenoid, then yes 16 ga is fine. However if you're using one starter solenoid, which any GM engine only uses one solenoid for the starter, then you're going to want to run a thicker gauge wire.

GM cars and trucks use a 12 ga wire but their ignition switches are much closer to the starter than in a boat (as the wiring is usually run). If it's a GM engine and you're only using the solenoid that's on the starter I'd run at least 10 ga., probably 8 ga..
IMO

Quote from: FORKEDUP on December 29, 2007, 10:44:57 PM

... i am not running an aux solenoid...

« **Reply #24 on:** January 19, 2008, 08:25:08 PM »

Quote from: hotrod56cars on January 10, 2008, 01:34:25 PM

... I don't think I've seen engine plates for a rail kit that have a provision to mount the alternator...

I need pics man, I'm dieing over here, please, please...

How'd you mount that alternator?

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