ballast resister voltage drop?

« **on:** July 12, 2013, 10:31:09 AM »

can someone tell me the drop across the white ceramic ballast resister to see if mine is good?

« **Reply #1 on:** July 12, 2013, 10:47:45 AM »

Quote from: CHROMEY on July 12, 2013, 10:31:09 AM

can someone tell me the drop across the white ceramic ballast resister to see if mine is good?

You should see approximately 1/3 drop across a ballast resistor. They are typically a pass fail thing. Meaning they have voltage or don't.

Be mindfull that there is also such a thing as an internally resisted ignition coil. You do not use a resistor on those.

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« **Reply #2 on:** July 13, 2013, 10:32:19 AM »

Well per my meter i have the same voltage across the resister

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« **Reply #3 on:** July 13, 2013, 10:44:28 AM »

Quote from: CHROMEY on July 13, 2013, 10:32:19 AM

Well per my meter i have the same voltage across the resister

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With the coil connected or disconnected?

The coil (a good one) needs to be connected in order for the resistor to have any sorry of voltage drop, otherwise you will see pretty much the same going out as you have going in (for the most part) the coil type also has a little to do with it.

What do you have going on?

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« **Reply #4 on:** July 13, 2013, 10:48:01 AM »

Killed another unilight module...trying to figure why

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« **Reply #5 on:** July 13, 2013, 10:49:18 AM »

So...my voltage is....12.10 @ begining of resistor and end of resistor and both side of coil.

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« **Reply #6 on:** July 13, 2013, 10:52:24 AM »

With key on of course

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« **Reply #7 on:** July 13, 2013, 11:25:59 AM »

Quote from: CHROMEY on July 13, 2013, 10:49:18 AM

So...my voltage is....12.10 @ begining of resistor and end of resistor and both side of coil.

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If you have a jumper wire, ground the negative side of the coil (the distributor side) and recheck your voltage.

GT

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« **Reply #8 on:** July 13, 2013, 11:38:34 AM »

About the only things that kill the module (a photo cell and an LED) is voltage problems, which I believe you had and bad grounds, which you may have experienced when you had the loose charging wire on the alternator.

For the most part, not really shocked that a Unilite failed. Maybe give a Pertronix a shot. They use hall effect technology and are much tougher.

GT

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« **Reply #9 on:** July 13, 2013, 02:29:35 PM »

I am on the same unilite for 8+ years. One side of ballast +coil/starter solenoid (I) and the other side ignition/alt. I also have the power filter as a fail safe. I keep a back up unilite just is case. You can buy the cheaper unilite for half the cost. I have each batt grounded to back of block at seperate spots with 4g wire.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/maa-29351 Power filter
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/maa-6100m Unilite

« **Reply #10 on:** July 13, 2013, 06:30:24 PM »

THANKS GUYS, definitely going to look into the power filter...and the cheaper unit.

just to see if it would fire, I switched out the dizzy with my dual point and she fired right up...going to look around further and see whats going in the harness back there....

« **Reply #11 on:** July 14, 2013, 06:39:41 AM »

I used this to eliminate an issue before...good read. I have a alt from Napa and looped the exciter/ignition to the other side of ballast.
http://www.centuryperformance.com/forum/showthread.php/45-Testing-the-Mallory-Unilite-and-E-Spark-Ignition-Modules

« **Reply #12 on:** July 14, 2013, 05:34:35 PM »

Leaving the key on for extended period of times without the engine running will kill the module.

CHROMEY

ballast resister voltage drop?

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