First.   Congrats!!!   Welcome!!

Second.  Post pics!!!!

starter, fuel pump, 750 or 850 carb, throttle cable plate, scoop or spark arrestor/filter, any oil pan with rear sump (10qt is plenty but not necessary to get you on the water), HEI distributor (keep it simple), flexplate, PTO, 1310 spicer driveshaft, single rib crank pulley, alternator with bracket, front water inlets with fittings for water hoses, exhaust manifolds, water hoses, make sure you have a water temp sender in the upper intake manifold, thermostat block off plate or a 2 way diverter thermostat housing, hoses ran to the rear snails of your exhaust, oil pressure sender, oil filter.

"any oil pan with rear sump "  Truck pans are too tall,  Chevelle pan works though
"alternator with bracket" Usually on the front motor plate
"1310 spicer driveshaft"  He has all of the driveshaft hardware

A GM HEI is hard to beat, with the Vacuum locked out
How fresh is the motor? Might be a good time to refresh and a decent cam and intake too.

Dan'l

yeah there is an alternator still mounted on the front plate. as far as how fresh the motor is i have absolutely no idea. i havent even heard it run.

what cam and intake would you recommend using?

also added a picture of the boat when i was picking it up....

thanks,
chris

That's a big boat...
Cam- Mostly stock motor... something like an eddy performer, same on the intake
I prefer single plane intakes- victor jr on a jet
Its gonna take some serious horsepower to make that hull fast.

Dan'l

A few Q's about your combo-
  Whats the specs on your cam, and what heads? 781's or similar?
  Do you have a flywheel or a flexplate? If it was originally rigged with a flexplate, a flywheel may not fit (Driveline length)
  How deep is that moroso pan? 7-7/8" deep is about all that will fit. get the one piece pan gasket, too
  Dual side tanks? Electic. single tank, either.

Throttle cable bracket- http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-g1419/overview/
HEI Vacuum adv lockout http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Vacuum-Advance-Lock-Plate,7317.html
Curve Kit http://www.speedwaymotors.com/HEI-Advance-Curve-Kit,740.html

high volume oil pump.
Hows the starter and alternator?

That's all I can think of right now-

Daniel

Plugs wires, cap, rotor
head gasket set
working bilge pump
exhaust hose, x2

glad you're making great progress.  i look forward to seeing some updated pix!

not to take the wind out of your sails but fiberglass tanks need to be addressed.   old fiberglass tanks break down and leak, especially with newer fuel mixtures, and a fuel leak in a boat is NOT something you want to have.  aluminum tanks can be found for relatively cheap and they come around often.  i would recommend that you replace them ASAP and dont run the boat with them.  if your tanks are deteriorating you're going to suck resin'ed fuel into your motor, coat all your intake, carb, etc with resin and it will be a total bummer.  but most importantly for your safety and your family/friends safety. 

At the risk of sounding like a complete dick.

This is the cam kit I purchased http://www.jegs.com/i/Comp-Cams/249/K11-240-4/10002/-1

Send it back, IMHO this will be too much cam for your current combination.

If this is really what you want to run, you will need; Forged pistons for a compression ratio in the 10.0:1 range. Headers. 850 CFM carburetor and open plenum manifold, preferably a high rise, Very hot ignition system, SFI rated flex plate and harmonic balancer, minimum of a 10 quart pan and a rev limiter, properly checked and clearanced valves springs and proper spring pressure, a tad of extra valve stem to guide clearance....

The motor came with a stock truck flexplate and I bought a flywheel as well. Not sure which one I'm gonna need but I do have both

The motor should be balanced if you are going to start playing around too much...

I'm not sure how deep the pan is. I bought it from a guy that restores jet boats and assured me it fits jet boats... Ill measure it tonight

Less than 8" should fly in a Spectra. Windage tray is a must....

I have dual saddle tanks that are made out of fiberglass... I hope this doesn't give me an issue for atleast the rest of this season.

IMHO cut them out now. The fiberglass tanks in the Spectras are a known Achilles heel...

The starter came with the boat and alternator did too. I figured I'd test these once its running and replace if needed.

Hopefully I don't have to tell you that if this is a closed engine compartment that these items need to be Coast Guard Approved...

Thanks for all the rad info... It's helping alot to make sure I have everything before I install the motor.

GT

Are you recommending an HV oil pump? Just curious as to why.

I refuse to run an HV, I detail my own stockers but use an 80# bypass spring and a billet oil pump shaft. Since the motors typically run around 4000+ I find the HV pumps unnecessary. Love to hear other theories though. 

Only because I didn't see the bottom end being refreshed, '70s pick-up truck motor, might be 'loose' compared to a fresh bottom end.
Trying to err on the side of caution.

Dan'l

At the risk of sounding like a complete dick.

Send it back, IMHO this will be too much cam for your current combination.

If this is really what you want to run, you will need; Forged pistons for a compression ratio in the 10.0:1 range. Headers. 850 CFM carburetor and open plenum manifold, preferably a high rise, Very hot ignition system, SFI rated flex plate and harmonic balancer, minimum of a 10 quart pan and a rev limiter, properly checked and clearanced valves springs and proper spring pressure, a tad of extra valve stem to guide clearance....
 The motor should be balanced if you are going to start playing around too much...
 Less than 8" should fly in a Spectra. Windage tray is a must....
 IMHO cut them out now. The fiberglass tanks in the Spectras are a known Achilles heel...
Hopefully I don't have to tell you that if this is a closed engine compartment that these items need to be Coast Guard Approved...

GT

Thanks for the input... As far as cam goes I think you might have misunderstood what I purchased... The part # is 11-240-20 which requires an upgraded intake and exhaust.

Here is a chart I found on the comp cams website http://www.compcams.com/catalog/COMP2012/pdf/COMP_Catalog_2012_262.pdf

Looks like the cam should work just fine for my mild application.

I thought the 244* exhaust duration was a lil much for logs and snails, But I've heard of more- 292AH  292* 296*, @.050"- 244*, 246*,  .568"  .578" with wet headers. I'd stay in the 232-235* range @ .050" with logs and snails

Dan'l

I'm new to the whole boat deal so forgive me if this is a dumb question but what about if I'm using indmar risers? That what came with this boat so I was just gonna use them.

Center rise manifolds? Not logs and snails?

Glenn (GT) would know.



Dan'l

Yes, they are center risers...

Well, going to sound a bit like a Dick again....

Go back to the machine shop and have the springs removed and have them install some stock springs until the can break in process is completed. Then you can switch back to the spec springs.

Have you checked for coil bind? How did the shop set up the guide clearance? What valve seals? Check for guide height as well.

Trust me here, I have already made all the mistakes you are about to make......

I have the same cam and am telling you, it is a lot of shaft for your application.

It will run, but sure is really going to like the gas dock. This cam likes to be in the mid 5000 rpm range.

You will be lucky to be in the mid 4000 rpm range.

Not trying to discourage you, trying to point you in the right direction.

With a cast crank and pistons, I cannot with a clear sense of responsibility recommend running that motor over 4500 rpm. My 468 with that camshaft and open headers and am 850cfm double pumper and MSD ignition runs extremely hard all the way to 5300 rpm. This is with a detailed A impeller, loader and stuffer in the pump. That is in a 19' bubble deck that is lighter than a two seater jet ski...

GT

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