I have a 455 olds I just put OT headers on and I ran my hoses the way cp performance said to my question is the thermostat housing has 2 out let's they said to make both lines dump lines can I plug 1 outlet and just use one hose for dumpline or should I run 2 I'm stuck.

I have a gate valve from the pump to a t that goes to the water pump plate. Then on my intake I have a ball valve that comes off the intake to the basset t then goes to the headers. I'm running about 420 hp I don't have a dump line yet. The thermostat lines is what they told my to make 2 dump lines. Thanks

I'm no professional but I have mine piped how Bassett racing tells you to pipe it. See attached photo. I run one gate valve off the pump. I have never had an issue with this set up.

The way I'm trying to set up the engine block pressure is greatly reduced.

I am going to give you my opinion with the understanding that it us just my opinion.

I do not like the set up you are talking about.

Here is the reasons why.

You are running the coldest water possible to the headers, why?

If you were to run hot water from the engine to the headers, the water would be MUCH closer to the boiling point and there will be less of a chance if pushing cold subcooled water into the exhaust valves causing engine damage. Also the water will flash off easier cooling the headers more effectively.

Whoops... Edit....never mind that part, miss read the post.

With two dump lines, the water is going to travel through the engine too fast and cause huge temperature swings from idle to wot. Also with too low of block pressure, steam pockets can form creating hot sts in the heads which could lead to detonation, also causing engine damage.

The diagram above is a proven method, literally done it dozens of times and never an issue.

Your overboard dump should have an inside diameter of approximately 7/16" and you should adjust your water control valve so the header water comes in at approximately 1500 to 1800 rpm, this should net you an idle water temperature close to about 150 degrees.....

No magic, no hocus pocus and very few (one to be exact) moving parts.

GT

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The way I'm trying to set up the engine block pressure is greatly reduced.

Reduce it to much and the 12 pound control valve for the headers will NEVER open....

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I edited my post on the header water... You do not need to throttle the ball valve, whoever told you to do that is FOS....

One properly sized dump is all you require.

You can use the other hole for a water pressure gauge. 

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I agree.

Gt u are talking about the thermostat correct I can only use one line and plug the other hole. What size hose do u think I should use. And the ball valve

Gt u are talking about the thermostat correct I can only use one line and plug the other hole. What size hose do u think I should use. And the ball valve

Yeah, but no thermostat, just an empty housing... Correct?

Here is why the way mentioned works... Math, sorry...

I copied this from one of my posts in another thread, didn't want to have to shortcut you to that major pissing match.

Anyway, this will get you stupid close.

I used 500HP as an example only.

Use 12.8 BTU's per min, per HP  (12.8BTU's/min/HP) for gasoline engines.

So, 500 HP X 12.8 btu's X 60 minutes = 384000 BTUH.

Here is a cool little formula..    BTUH= Delta T (F) X GPM X 500  (whereas the 500 is the specific heat of water [1] times the weight of water [8.33#/gal.] times 60 [minutes in an hour]).

So that 500 HP motor needs to cool 348,000 BTU's worth of heat (for the most part 1/3 of the heat generated by the fuel).

So lets say you want the motor to run at 130*F.

The lake you mostly run in is approx 60*F.... So now what?    well, 348,000 = 70*F delta t X GPM X 500... Anyone?

You need approximately 11 GPM

If you were to use a 3/8" to 7/16" dump at 15psi, it WILL work. And work well.

GT
 

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Leave it simple and you will have no issues.  Here is a couple pics of my set up and no issues.  Hope it helps