the cam i used in my hondo was pretty good for my application, just for reference brad used it in his boat and i think it turned 48/4900 rpm with an A-impeller i dont have a cam card with me, but iwill be getting the exact same cam for my liberty.

the place i got it will break it in for you for 60 bucks, i think the cam/lifters and break in was 260.00, but i'm not sure maybe he will chime in. when i get back to work i will get you the name of the company, i like the break in thing. sorry for the ramble

Thanks Ralph.

You just killed two birds with one stone   Cam break in was gonna be my next post but you just covered that for me.

Soooo.......... just let them know what im running and they can give me some options or tell me exactly what i need

2sav

Good info Ralph and thanks again i will be making some calls/email's before i buy anything. I only wanna do it once and time is running out. Parker is coming up fast

2sav

I've posted the same question before.  Picking a cam turned out to be like guessing the number of gumballs in the gumball machine.  Lot of good ideas, but never knowing if it would be "right."  I guess I have another strike because of the size/weight of my boat.  I'm still sitting on the fence for this one.

If anyone has a suggestion -I'm all ears!  As it sits now: 454, 9.0:1 C/R, 4850rpm w/"A", vaccum Q-Jet.  I've got an 800dp waiting to be installed.  Sorry for the thread jack.

original post:  http://www.socaljetboats.com/index.php?topic=1777.25



Thanks
LC

I got the cam card sitting here on my desk if youre interested.

I am

2sav

Thanx

2sav

let me give you my engine spec's
466
flat top pistons
d3 heads w/ss  c/j valves home ported
the above cam
roller rockers
torker 2 intake
830 dp
msd rtr dizzy
high flow dynamics stage 1 oil pump
milodon oil pan
comp cams timing chain
clay smith mech fuel pump
nothing special about this eng

forgot to mention that its 0 decked

I need some recomendations on a cam, dont want to much but then again dont want to short change myself either   I kinda like that lopey sound though

What i will be running so far, stock stroke (3.85) with TRW domes 10.21 C/R , a Stealth intake , and most likely a Holley 850 DP carb , heads are  D3VE A2A with 97cc's and will be ported so it will breath like a MOFO   And of course SS valve's.

So whats a good all around cam to run? I would like to buy a cam kit, cam,lifters,springs,locks,retainers, all matching.

And im running a  "A" impeller to

Thanks,

2sav

While a camshaft is usually the first component to go into your engine, it is often the second-to-last component to be selected.  A camshaft plays a very important role in an engine and can make or break the combo, hp-wise.  Frankly, 2sav, with the number of times that your particular combo has changed I think it would be best for you to absolutely positively acquire all your engine parts for the build--less cam--and then decide on a cam once your cylinder head work is completed.

One more thing, if you are running the .060" over L2443-060's with D3VE heads, your c/r is closer to 10.9:1 and if your block is zero decked c/r jumps to 11.4:1, I don't care what the SPeedPro chart says...it's incorrect.

LO

I'll trust L/O with his compression estimate. Would be best to mock up the short block and see how deep the pistons are in the hole, because maybe you could just get the deck cut to level it out to keep the compression down.

And the next trick would be to fully polish your chambers to help detonation. Unless you're trying to save the valve job that's on it right now?
This is the last Ford set I did..... oooo shiny
Let's see if L/O can reconize what kind they are lol

~11:1 with iron heads is not very workable with pump gas, unless you execute extensive mods in the area of the combustion chamber.  Fortunately, you can mill the dome off your pistons (they are solid dome pistons) so as to reduce compression, but for the amount of money you will ultimately have into them you might as well have bought a better, lighter set of flat tops to start with. You're going about it the hard way, but it can work.

In order to reduce detonation, it is extremely helpful to optimize the effectiveness of the cylinder head's quench pad.  Again, with your chosen pistons, more $ is requried.  Specifically, the stack height of your crank throw + rod C-to-C + piston pin height = 10.286".  The D1VE and/or D9TE block deck height is typically ~10.322".  This is a difference of a whopping .036" + .042" gasket thickness = 0.078" total quench distance.  Can you say "ping?"    If you must stick with the parts that you have, then my advice is to mill the domes off and deck the block to 10.300." Your compression ratio will then be about 9.6:1 and--in conjunction with the decked block--be much more resistant to detonation...which is something that those 4032-grade aluminum pistons are not particularly fond of.

That's that plan of approach I would take if we were building your engine with those parts.

LO

Well here i go again, one step forward and two steps back   So be it! it will be done by june i dont care what gas i have to run

Thanks again Paul, Its nice to get your input on this stuff, really helps.

2sav