SoCal Jet Boats
Tech Talk => Engine Mechanical / Electrical => Topic started by: willowvalley on May 08, 2016, 03:54:20 PM
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So as Simple as it may sound how do you drain the oil if you don't have a cheater tube off the pan nor want to pull engine? Milkshakef my oil while testing with garden hose the Bassett Tee opened up and trashed my new vr1 oil...
I have a Dooley oil pan and can't install a drain tube due to no room.
What have you guys found works best sucking it through the dip stick hole?
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Takes a while thru dipstick but it works. Pulling motor might be faster tho
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Pull the distributor, install a barb fitting on the oil pressure hole to a hose and use your oil primer. Takes about two minutes. Doesn't your Dooley have like four drain holes?
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Pour some diesel fuel in there to help thin the oil and absorb the water.
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Nice. Smart GT
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It's a little expensive but this is what we use
http://m.harborfreight.com/6-1-4-quarter-gallon-oil-extractor-46149.html?utm_referrer=direct%2Fnot%20provided
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Yeah it has 2 drain holes but they happen to be the ones on the passenger side only and only give me about 3/4 inch to work with. I ended up pulling the plug I could reach and just dumping it into the hull. I tried the pump but the oil was to thick to pull a good vacuum. What a freakin mess. I'm deleting the Bassett Tee and doing the hose lines to a valve under my seat. I barley cracked the hose water hose while testing yesterday and it pressured the tee enough to fill the headers really fast. I'd much rather not have to ever use the water in the headers for noise again....this was a bummer.
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Would I get away with running delo 15/40 in it to wipe the engine clean of all the moisture I get the oil for free figured I use it to at least rumor through as a cleaner...
Thanks for the tips guys
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Would I get away with running delo 15/40 in it to wipe the engine clean of all the moisture I get the oil for free figured I use it to at least rumor through as a cleaner...
Thanks for the tips guys
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15/40 Delo is fine.
So tell me again how you think this was the Bassett tee's fault?
Going to be honest here. Never, not one time, did I have an issue with a Bassett tee that wasn't because of a set up problem.
GT
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I ran the Bassett tee off the thermo housing and a line out and didn't have the engine running before I turned the water on and it must of had enough pressure to open the tee and dump water into headers before i had a chance to fire it up. I'm know the tee works good after the fact but my initial lets get the block filled up before hand is where I went wrong.
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I ran the Bassett tee off the thermo housing and a line out and didn't have the engine running before I turned the water on and it must of had enough pressure to open the tee and dump water into headers before i had a chance to fire it up. I'm know the tee works good after the fact but my initial lets get the block filled up before hand is where I went wrong.
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Three things.
First, you already figured out, start engine, then water.
Second, you NEVER need enough water going through the engine when running on a trailer to open the header valve.
Third, I have a hard time believing that all that water came from a header mishap.
Just food for thought, I may be FOS.
GT
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Three things.
First, you already figured out, start engine, then water.
Second, you NEVER need enough water going through the engine when running on a trailer to open the header valve.
Third, I have a hard time believing that all that water came from a header mishap.
Just food for thought, I may be FOS.
GT
It was a lot of water...I trust your opinion. Already putting in new oil and just got a new filter.
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It's a little expensive but this is what we use
http://m.harborfreight.com/6-1-4-quarter-gallon-oil-extractor-46149.html?utm_referrer=direct%2Fnot%20provided
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How well does this work Jake? You know, most harbor freight tools don't last. I just use a manual to pump 11 quarts! Holy sh!t. Lol
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Check the tee. In mine I found the ball stuck open.
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Check the tee. In mine I found the ball stuck open.
Mine stuck open on my first boat kept killing the motor I was new to boats let alone water cooled heater. So finally figured it out and got it switched out. Then next season it did it again pulled apart had a lil rust. Cleaned up and told myself one more time and I'm taking it off. But got smart and I put a valve by drivers seat worked great but kinda a pain so I eventually just stopped using water all together yea it's loud and yea pipes are hot but no hassle and no worries.
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How well does this work Jake? You know, most harbor freight tools don't last. I just use a manual to pump 11 quarts! Holy sh!t. Lol
Well with a sale and a super coupon I got it for 85 bucks 5 years ago. It's still sucking ...... No homo lol
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Well with a sale and a super coupon I got it for 85 bucks 5 years ago. It's still sucking ...... No homo lol
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👍 gotta get one
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When I ran mine on the hose I never built enough pressure in the block to open the tee valve to get to the headers. Hope everything is cool with your setup because that seems like a lot if water from the headers.
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This is what I use... Works great! Takes about 10 minutes to pull 10 quarts out, if you are dealing with cold oil you can prop a heat lamp beside your oil pan for about 10 or 15 min and it will warm it up enough so the pump can pull it out without taking all day...
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It's a little expensive but this is what we use
http://m.harborfreight.com/6-1-4-quarter-gallon-oil-extractor-46149.html?utm_referrer=direct%2Fnot%20provided
Sent from McIntyre Park
You can find this style on Craigslist for $100 new
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I've had one of these for years. $65. Works great. 10 quart tank, 1 quart stays in the oil filter.
https://www.motiveproducts.com/collections/power-fill-and-power-extractors/products/power-fill-and-power-extractor (https://www.motiveproducts.com/collections/power-fill-and-power-extractors/products/power-fill-and-power-extractor)
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Those machines suck out of dip stick?
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I changed the set up to dual dumps from housing and a tee off of water in to a valve under my seat to run to headers.
That won't happen again.
Thanks for the input guys
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Those machines suck out of dip stick?
4or5 tubes to choose from.
Some dipstick tubes are pinched to retain dipstick so they have to be straightened.
In connection. I've changed oil in my Oldsmobile asper Berkeley owner's manual. I've taken the oil pressure sending unit off, slipped on a 1/2" hose into milk jugs, started the engine wet and dumped it until it started to bubble. I've been changing the oil that way for the last 40 years at least once a season.
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http://www.amazon.com/Mityvac-7400-Liter-Fluid-Evacuator/dp/B000JFJM14
My buddy at Honda says they use these and work great too.
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15/40 Delo is fine.
So tell me again how you think this was the Bassett tee's fault?
Going to be honest here. Never, not one time, did I have an issue with a Bassett tee that wasn't because of a set up problem.
GT
Would it be ok to tee off the one port in and run the water line to valve for headers that way ? Thinking of getting a either the Hardin billet valve or just a small 1/2 npt ball valve for under my seat.
I have 2 8s going in and 2 8s out for water. Taking a little water off the inlet side for headers wouldn't hurt right?
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This is what I use... Works great! Takes about 10 minutes to pull 10 quarts out, if you are dealing with cold oil you can prop a heat lamp beside your oil pan for about 10 or 15 min and it will warm it up enough so the pump can pull it out without taking all day...
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yup I got one of these and I and it works great"
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Would it be ok to tee off the one port in and run the water line to valve for headers that way ? Thinking of getting a either the Hardin billet valve or just a small 1/2 npt ball valve for under my seat.
I have 2 8s going in and 2 8s out for water. Taking a little water off the inlet side for headers wouldn't hurt right?
It might just be me, but I like the warmest water possible going to the headers. I have only ever use water from out of the block to cool the headers. Shooting 60°F water into a 600-800°F exhaust just seems so wrong. At least at 120° or so it's much closer to steam as it goes in.
You know?
GT
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It might just be me, but I like the warmest water possible going to the headers. I have only ever use water from out of the block to cool the headers. Shooting 60°F water into a 600-800°F exhaust just seems so wrong. At least at 120° or so it's much closer to steam as it goes in.
You know?
GT
Yeah that is great point
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So this is how I ran my lines and didn't want to run a ugly tee off my 45s.
Only other option is to tee at Marshall pressure gauge I guess to to warm water to valve at seat... Any ideas? Where I could plumb it cleanly?
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So this is how I ran my lines and didn't want to run a ugly tee off my 45s.
Only other option is to tee at Marshall pressure gauge I guess to to warm water to valve at seat... Any ideas? Where I could plumb it cleanly?
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I assume (I know) that both of the thermostat lines go to a dump?
GT
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I assume (I know) that both of the thermostat lines go to a dump?
GT
Yes they do
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Yes they do
Why dual dumplines?
The cheat would be to install the tee in one of the two, one of the outs to a smaller dump, the other to another tee to each header.
You will have to play with the orifice size of the smaller dump to adjust the header cut in time.
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Why dual dumplines?
The cheat would be to install the tee in one of the two, one of the outs to a smaller dump, the other to another tee to each header.
You will have to play with the orifice size of the smaller dump to adjust the header cut in time.
Well I originally wasn't going to run a wet headers then after seeing and hearing how hot and loud they are I figured i would get popped for exceeding Db levels.
I also didn't want to run a pressure regulator and just wanted to have always the correct pressure for block. Talked to Greg at G&S he suggested two 8s in and 2 8s out would be fine that's what i stuck with.
I guess I could pull thermo housing and drill and tap a 3rd fitting ? Or just make a new one that has multiple ports.
Yeah now that I've ran new line to the dumps inquests I could cut one down low and add a tee to feed valve.
This is all new to me so it's a learning curve.
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Dang that seems confusing
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Well I originally wasn't going to run a wet headers then after seeing and hearing how hot and loud they are I figured i would get popped for exceeding Db levels.
I also didn't want to run a pressure regulator and just wanted to have always the correct pressure for block. Talked to Greg at G&S he suggested two 8s in and 2 8s out would be fine that's what i stuck with.
I guess I could pull thermo housing and drill and tap a 3rd fitting ? Or just make a new one that has multiple ports.
Yeah now that I've ran new line to the dumps inquests I could cut one down low and add a tee to feed valve.
This is all new to me so it's a learning curve.
With a third dump line, you will never generate enough pressure to open the header control valve.
My way is easier. ;D
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Googled it hahaha
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With a third dump line, you will never generate enough pressure to open the header control valve.
My way is easier. ;D
If I ran it this way I wouldn't run the Bassett tee just the valve under seat to wet headers when I want to.
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If I ran it this way I wouldn't run the Bassett tee just the valve under seat to wet headers when I want to.
Why not do both?
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Why not do both?
I think I will do that
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Why not do both?
So I change the oil I did Rotella 15 4012 quarts how many times do you think I should change his oil before I take it out this weekend should I let the engine idling get nice and hot to help collect all the crap or turnover by hand pull the plugs and not let it run and then change oil after that
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So I change the oil I did Rotella 15 4012 quarts how many times do you think I should change his oil before I take it out this weekend should I let the engine idling get nice and hot to help collect all the crap or turnover by hand pull the plugs and not let it run and then change oil after that
Change the oil once and go run the piss out out of it.
A little Marvel Mystery Oil or ATF never hurt anyone.
What pan do you have that you can run 12 quarts? It better be a14 quart pan BTW.
;D
JMHO
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It's one of dooleys old race boat design pans he made a few years back it's a 12qt pan with baffling and side to side baffels as well. He hooked it up since the boat tunnel was so narrow and it was up in his rafters. 1 off pan kinda neat I guess.
250$ too
I really don't wanna spin a bearing quite a bit of water got in there. I cranked it over by hand to make sure I would bend a dam rod
Add a quart or two of Mobil one atf ? I got a lot of it.
Was thinking if I pulled plugs and coil wire and shut off fuel and turned it over I could try and pull more junk out that might still be in there.
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It's one of dooleys old race boat design pans he made a few years back it's a 12qt pan with baffling and side to side baffels as well. He hooked it up since the boat tunnel was so narrow and it was up in his rafters. 1 off pan kinda neat I guess.
250$ too
I really don't wanna spin a bearing quite a bit of water got in there. I cranked it over by hand to make sure I would bend a dam rod
Add a quart or two of Mobil one atf ? I got a lot of it.
Was thinking if I pulled plugs and coil wire and shut off fuel and turned it over I could try and pull more junk out that might still be in there.
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In the cylinders? That should have been taken care of right away.
JMO
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Yeah....unfortunately i didn't know how much got in there but I'm going to run new oil through it again tonight
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