So as Simple as it may sound how do you drain the oil if you don't have a cheater tube off the pan nor want to pull engine? Milkshakef my oil while testing with garden hose the Bassett Tee opened up and trashed my new vr1 oil...

I have a Dooley oil pan and can't install a drain tube due to no room.


What have you guys found works best sucking it through the dip stick hole?


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Pull the distributor,  install a barb fitting on the oil pressure hole to a hose and use your oil primer. Takes about two minutes. Doesn't your Dooley have like four drain holes?

Nice. Smart GT

Yeah it has 2 drain holes but they happen to be the ones on the passenger side only and only give me about 3/4 inch to work with. I ended up pulling the plug I could reach and just dumping it into the hull. I tried the pump but the oil was to thick to pull a good vacuum. What a freakin mess. I'm deleting the Bassett Tee and doing the hose lines to a valve under my seat. I barley cracked the hose water hose while testing yesterday and it pressured the tee enough to fill the headers really fast. I'd much rather not have to ever use the water in the headers for noise again....this was a bummer.


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Would I get away with running delo 15/40 in it to wipe the engine clean of all the moisture I get the oil for free figured I use it to at least rumor through as a cleaner...


Thanks for the tips guys


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15/40 Delo is fine.

So tell me again how you think this was the Bassett tee's fault?

Going to be honest here.  Never,  not one time,  did I have an issue with a Bassett tee that wasn't because of a set up problem.

GT

I ran the Bassett tee off the thermo housing and a line out and didn't have the engine running before I turned the water on and it must of had enough  pressure to open the tee and dump water into headers before i had a chance to fire it up. I'm know the tee works good after the fact but my initial lets get the block filled up before hand is where I went wrong. 


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Three things.

First,  you already figured out,  start engine,  then water.

Second,  you NEVER need enough water going through the engine when running on a trailer to open the header valve.

Third, I have a hard time believing that all that water came from a header mishap.

Just food for thought,  I may be FOS.

GT

It's a little expensive but this is what we use
http://m.harborfreight.com/6-1-4-quarter-gallon-oil-extractor-46149.html?utm_referrer=direct%2Fnot%20provided


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How well does this work Jake? You know, most harbor freight tools don't last. I just use a manual to pump 11 quarts! Holy sh!t. Lol

Check the tee. In mine I found the ball stuck open.

Mine stuck open on my first boat kept killing the motor I was new to boats let alone water cooled heater. So finally figured it out and got it switched out. Then next season it did it again pulled apart had a lil rust. Cleaned up and told myself one more time and I'm taking it off. But got smart and I put a valve by drivers seat worked great but kinda a pain so I eventually just stopped using water all together yea it's loud and yea pipes are hot but no hassle and no worries.


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Well with a sale and a super coupon I got it for 85 bucks 5 years ago. It's still sucking ...... No homo lol


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👍 gotta get one

This is what I use... Works great! Takes about 10 minutes to pull 10 quarts out, if you are dealing with cold oil you can prop a heat lamp beside your oil pan for about 10 or 15 min and it will warm it up enough so the pump can pull it out without taking all day...


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I've had one of these for years. $65. Works great. 10 quart tank, 1 quart stays in the oil filter.

https://www.motiveproducts.com/collections/power-fill-and-power-extractors/products/power-fill-and-power-extractor

I changed the set up to dual dumps from housing and a tee off of water in to a valve under my seat to run to headers.
That won't happen again.



Thanks for the input guys


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http://www.amazon.com/Mityvac-7400-Liter-Fluid-Evacuator/dp/B000JFJM14


My buddy at Honda says they use these and work great too.


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