Here we go... I'm running a remote oil filter setup on my 460, bought the block off from CP performance billet nice block off, along with this I'm running a dual filter mount with two HP1 fram filters.

My problem I've had twice now is on the outlet side of filter mount it keeps dripping oil From the AN fotting. I've changed the fittings and line twice now guessing that maybe it was faulty.... Anyone have any ideas why this would be continuously leaking ? I'm running a 7qt canton pan and high volume pump, could this be too much pressure or volume causing that fitting to leak ? I just don't understand ! Thanks

Are you running AN hoses? (I mean, Braided stainless with actual AN fittings?) and actual AN/pipe thread adaptors on the housings? Reason I ask is the remote filter setups usually come with their own hoses and fittings which are regular flare fittings, not AN ( Interface angles are different, and compound on AN fittings). Mixing and matching them on header water lines, etc, usually is not an issue, but not so on an oil or fuel line. Leaks will be amplified with high volume oil pumps.

Also, I would stay away from the Fram filters. With a high volume pump at the RPMs we run at, those things tend to swell up like it was stung with a bee, can rupture, and at best are a mother focker to remove when it comes time to change them. Get some Motorcrafts, or better yet, Wix. 

Ray

Where on the fitting is it actually leaking? At the threads into the aluminum?

Your problem sounds to be a faulty casting... Also, you cannot use traditional Teflon tape on threaded fittings using oil. The oil will permeate right though it.

Try to find some Blue Monster or the yellow stuff found at Ace Hardware. The colored tape is for gases and petroleum.

Synthetic oils really leak through PTFE tape.

Good luck.

Also x2 on what Ray mentioned, flare and AN are two different animals. It will sort of work with water under low pressure, but not recommended.

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Oil seems to be leaking continuously from the AN makeup.... I understand differences in Teflon for specific purposes. Also I understand there is a difference in flare,AN, and NPT fittings. Nothing else leaks oil at any other connections or make ups. I guess like you said could be bad casting. Thanks for you help....

I am going to say this, but it will sound somewhat condescending, not the intent, just trying to offer a suggestion.

You really need to get rid of those straight connectors and install some 90's off of the adapter, this can be a PITA if the ports are real close together.

You are putting a ton of strain on the two fittings going into the filter adapter, at least put a couple of clamps on the hose to hep support the hose so the fitting does not take the strain. You are running 200*F oil through there and the oil flow will pulsate, potentially causing the fittings to change shape from cool to hot. I tend to stay away from AN stuff on oil lines for just this reason, aluminum will work, but everything needs to be spot on. I like steel fittings when it comes to hydraulic lines.

Don't take it personally.. (Some people on here can have thin skin at times)...

So your suggesting to eliminate the aluminum AN fittings while still utilizing braided line but using a steel fitting on both ends ? Where is the "strain" coming from.... And why would 90's eliminate this.... I understand the hot oil temp, but you kind of threw a bunch of stuff out there with hose clamps and fittings, just don't really get where your going and what is my correct direction for solution.  Maybe I need pictures haha... Makes things a little easier when you can visualize ! Thanks again

Your braided lines are being used as a 90. Replace the straight pipe to AN to a 90 degree adapter and shot straight down. This takes the load off of the AN fittings and could eliminate your problem..

What I mean by clamping is to put a clamp over the actual braided hose taking the pressure off of the fittings and screw it to the back of the seat. Essentially holding the house straight out from the filter block.

Look at what you are trying to do now, the only  thing keeping the hoses in shape is the load on the fittings. Always install the braided house as straight as you can out of the fitting. You have an immediate 90 down and another towards the rear. As soon as the engine runs and makes oil pressure, those hoses want to straighten out, putting undo strain on the fittings.

I will see if I can get some pictures of what I mean. Lol, I am a visual person too.

I also don't trust the Fram brand add far as filters, I am a Wix/Amsoil guy. Have heard good things about K&N too.

GT

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Gonna have rough time getting 2 90* fittings in the housing (Either housing, probably). 1 will go in ok, the other won't be able to thread in without an extension of some sort unless it's a swivel fitting....   

Ray

Yep will have to be swivel 90 or 45... Theoretically I just need my lines straight as possible right ? It all makes sense now. This is all new to me but I can see how it's almost common sense.... Thanks guys

Pretty much. With GT, I agree and use hydraulic hose for those sorts of things. Even power steering lines in a car. If the braided stainless and AN fittings were all that and a bag of chips, every John Deere, CAT and Kubota backhoe and dozer on the planet would be using them....... 

On the right track though. Although I wouldn't rule out a bad or cracked casting either, which was also my first thought.

Yes, as straight as possible, and clamped/secured wherever and whenever possible. They will try and whip around, as Glenn said. Even if it's hydraulic hose 

Rebuilt quite a few pieces of heavy equipment, from CP oil drilling rigs to a JD backhoe my old man had bought that burned up in a barn fire. While oil lines on a jet boat at 85PSI or so are a far cry from the 3000-3500 PSI developed on one of those things, the principle is the same, and there are VERY BIG differences in braided stainless hose. 5-10PSI on a fuel line or 15-25 PSI on a water line? No Problem! Better than that? Best be using what Nascar and the Air Force uses! 

Ray

My cable is a pusher, so your saying to re route my fuel lines and move my supply to the other side and push from my secondary??? Like I said this is all new to me.... Is what I'm saying wrong ?

No where to push from on the bottom of linkage... Boat does 75 had it on GPS last weekend... Your just a jet boat f$cking guru man! Haha wish I had someone like you in my neighborhood ! I'll try to upload a linkage picture on side of carb

That doesn't look like it would work either though