Engine rail kit install

« **on:** May 24, 2014, 09:50:50 AM »

Ok.... so I'm trying to figure this out. So far I understand to set the engine in with the driveline at a slight angle from the jet angle. My jet is at a 4* so I will also set the engine at 4*. From what Ive read, a driveline angle from 1*-5* is good. I have a block, and drive line but no crankshaft or flexplate. Is there anyway to do this so that I will be close? Does anyone know the distance from the back of the block to the driveline side of the PTO? Thanks for any help.

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« **Reply #1 on:** May 24, 2014, 11:15:09 AM »

I heard jim brock has a jig for bbc engines.

« **Reply #2 on:** May 25, 2014, 12:48:11 AM »

Any tips?

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« **Reply #3 on:** May 25, 2014, 08:45:19 AM »

Measure the crap out of everything and don't try to do it solo. GT posted on a different thread how far the driveline needs to be on. Something about all the way on and back off 1/8th inch or something. Hopefully he can chime in.

« **Reply #4 on:** May 25, 2014, 09:15:01 AM »

Quote from: 74hondo on May 24, 2014, 11:15:09 AM

I heard jim brock has a jig for bbc engines.

I don't think Jim Brocks' jig is a rental piece...

-beerjet-

« **Reply #5 on:** May 25, 2014, 09:19:45 AM »

Quote from: beerjet on May 25, 2014, 09:15:01 AM

I don't think Jim Brocks' jig is a rental piece...

-beerjet-

Wasn't saying it for rent. But he could get it done for him real quick with the jig.

« **Reply #6 on:** May 25, 2014, 09:21:54 AM »

Quote from: 74hondo on May 25, 2014, 09:19:45 AM

Wasn't saying it for rent. But he could get it done for him real quick with the jig.

No doubt...
What leaves me scratching my head is that a bunch of recent questions have been beat to death on here and either the search function isn't working or it isn't being used.

-beerjet-

« **Reply #7 on:** May 25, 2014, 09:26:59 AM »

You would need to bring the boat to Jim's shop and he will set the length of the drive line on the jig and in a hr done

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« **Reply #8 on:** May 27, 2014, 08:43:47 AM »

I was wondering if I can do this if I dont have a flywheel and crankshaft installed. I have done a lot of searching on this subject but haven't seen if it can be done without those parts. Is there a measurement from the jet input shaft to the rear of the block that will get me close. If I had those parts I think I could have been done by now...anyone have a junk crankshaft?

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« **Reply #9 on:** May 27, 2014, 09:42:02 PM »

Quote from: el mojado on May 27, 2014, 08:43:47 AM

I was wondering if I can do this if I dont have a flywheel and crankshaft installed. I have done a lot of searching on this subject but haven't seen if it can be done without those parts. Is there a measurement from the jet input shaft to the rear of the block that will get me close. If I had those parts I think I could have been done by now...anyone have a junk crankshaft?

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yeah depending on what drive slime your boat is running and pto

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« **Reply #10 on:** May 27, 2014, 09:54:04 PM »

Quote from: Just Electric on May 27, 2014, 09:42:02 PM

yeah depending on what drive slime your boat is running and pto

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1310 driveline

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« **Reply #11 on:** May 28, 2014, 12:41:46 AM »

Either you need to have your drive line, PTO, and flywheel so that you can place the engine properly if you are setting the engine as far back as possible or you need to move the engine forward and measure for a custom drive line.

The best dimension I could get tonight (w/o pulling it off the stand) is 1.845 from block bell housing face to PTO drive line face including flywheel.

1/8" minimum clearance between the snap ring on the pump shaft and the yoke so the pump doesn't push on the engine thrust bearing and kill your engine.

Try to get the drive line as straight as possible, there will be flex in the hull that naturally causes misalignment.

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« **Reply #12 on:** May 28, 2014, 06:34:42 AM »

Thank you sir

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« **Reply #13 on:** May 29, 2014, 09:01:12 AM »

You don't really need a crankshaft. In fact that makes it harder in my opinion. What you do is get a piece of pipe about 4' long. I use one with an I.D. that just slides over the pump shaft. Use this as your crank. You will need to make 2 spacers so you can mount it in your block like the crank. You can make these out of plywood if need be. Outer diameter is 2.75" which is approximately the main journal size, and then the inner diameter of would be what ever size pipe your using. Slide these pieces over the pipe, bolt into your mock up block and now you have your jig. Slide the pipe out the back what ever length your drive shat is and slide it onto the pump shaft. Now you can take all your measurements from there. I added a picture off of Justin's thread to help with a visual. This is basically what you're making using your block and a piece of pipe. Hope this makes sense.

« **Reply #14 on:** May 29, 2014, 09:10:38 AM »

Quote from: icecreaman on May 29, 2014, 09:01:12 AM

You don't really need a crankshaft. In fact that makes it harder in my opinion. What you do is get a piece of pipe about 4' long. I use one with an I.D. that just slides over the pump shaft. Use this as your crank. You will need to make 2 spacers so you can mount it in your block like the crank. You can make these out of plywood if need be. Outer diameter is 2.75" which is approximately the main journal size, and then the inner diameter of would be what ever size pipe your using. Slide these pieces over the pipe, bolt into your mock up block and now you have your jig. Slide the pipe out the back what ever length your drive shat is and slide it onto the pump shaft. Now you can take all your measurements from there. I added a picture off of Justin's thread to help with a visual. This is basically what you're making using your block and a piece of pipe. Hope this makes sense.

Hmm. Gotta read this a couple more times I think. I have the block and drive line only. And mounts. I can do this whith only these parts? Got any more pics? I understand setting the angles. What im having trouble with is setting the distance between block and pump which is why I started to think I need to install crank, flywheel, and PTO as well.

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« **Reply #15 on:** May 29, 2014, 09:24:29 AM »

my jig is for rent, $100.00 fri - mon, $400.00 deposit refundable 1818-890-1867 10% discount for SCJB members

« **Reply #16 on:** May 29, 2014, 12:25:33 PM »

Quote from: jim brock on May 29, 2014, 09:24:29 AM

my jig is for rent, $100.00 fri - mon, $400.00 deposit refundable 1818-890-1867

I really like your jig

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« **Reply #17 on:** May 29, 2014, 08:53:47 PM »

What is it that I am not understanding? After reading this method I still don't understand how that will help my engine placement vecause I still don't know the distance between the flange of the driveline and the block. It helps with alignment but not forward and aft engine placement.

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« **Reply #18 on:** May 29, 2014, 08:59:40 PM »

Quote from: el mojado on May 29, 2014, 08:53:47 PM

What is it that I am not understanding? After reading this method I still don't understand how that will help my engine placement vecause I still don't know the distance between the flange of the driveline and the block. It helps with alignment but not forward and aft engine placement.

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part of your alignment has to do with we're your engine sits and how far forward and back. 8 1/2 inches is typical but every boat is different with width if stringers twist some rails on one side is slightly lower then the other due to the boat etc etc.

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« **Reply #19 on:** May 29, 2014, 09:00:22 PM »

81/2 from front of pump to plate but who knows with your angle and set up

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« **Reply #20 on:** May 29, 2014, 09:02:47 PM »

What does 8 1/2 refer to?

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« **Reply #21 on:** May 29, 2014, 09:05:49 PM »

From the where the front of the pump ends and where you can see the splines. It can vary from the difference in drive lines a 1350 driveline is only 6 inches long where a 1310 is 71/4 long

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« **Reply #22 on:** May 29, 2014, 09:09:10 PM »

Here's a pic if you don't understand I added a quarter inch since the plate is that thick. Keep in mind of your planning on using a Hardin marine or Glenn wood deal it varies in bell housing length

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« **Reply #23 on:** May 29, 2014, 09:11:42 PM »

You can always wing it and set your driveline in and measure the distance to you pot and do the math with pro and flywheel but I don't recommend it jmo

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« **Reply #24 on:** May 29, 2014, 09:44:01 PM »

I guess I'll just wait till I get a junk crankshaft. Thanks guys.

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el mojado

74hondo

el mojado

74hondo

beerjet

74hondo

beerjet

Just Electric

el mojado

Just Electric

el mojado

Flusher

el mojado

icecreaman

el mojado

jim brock

Flusher

el mojado

Just Electric

Just Electric

el mojado

Just Electric

Just Electric

Just Electric

el mojado