Exhaust studs

« **on:** January 01, 2017, 02:39:22 PM »

I have 2 Hardin marine log exhausts and I'm replacing the studs because one is broken and another is stripped. I was wondering if grade 5 is a good stud to use or if I should go stainless. I read that stainless is soft and grade 5 is a better choice but I wanted to ask the experts here instead! Thanks everyone and happy new year!

Matt

Who farted?

« **Reply #1 on:** January 01, 2017, 03:01:22 PM »

Do not use stainless in aluminum.

Use cadmium if you can find it and blue loctite like it's free.

« **Reply #2 on:** January 01, 2017, 03:02:22 PM »

Quote from: Jetboat949 on January 01, 2017, 02:39:22 PM

Who farted?

Me, what are you going to do about it?

Lmao

« **Reply #3 on:** January 02, 2017, 10:17:05 AM »

Ok I will look for them. Thank you! Haha ok fair enough and nothing

Was just curious lol!!

Matt

Who farted?

« **Reply #4 on:** January 06, 2017, 01:42:15 PM »

Quote from: GT Jets on January 01, 2017, 03:01:22 PM

Do not use stainless in aluminum.

Use cadmium if you can find it and blue loctite like it's free.

y no stainless in aluminum???

I use all kinds of stainless in my deal. And i have lots of aluminum

But i use antiseize on the threads

« **Reply #5 on:** January 06, 2017, 01:58:39 PM »

Quote from: steves86ta on January 06, 2017, 01:42:15 PM

y no stainless in aluminum???

I use all kinds of stainless in my deal. And i have lots of aluminum

But i use antiseize on the threads

Antisieze is a must.

The reason for no stainless on aluminum on exhaust is the heart cycles. If you simply do the Antisieze on exhaust, the bolts will loosen up and cause gasket leaks.

Blue Loctite the shit out of grade 8 Gold cad hardware and not only will they stay put, but easily removed without drama.

I feel the heat cycles causes moisture to be drawn in during cool off, make a corroding mess.

Just my opinion, this seems to be a proven method. Loctite on stainless seems worthless unless you use the red.

JMO

GT

« **Reply #6 on:** January 06, 2017, 02:04:23 PM »

Quote from: GT Jets on January 06, 2017, 01:58:39 PM

Antisieze is a must.

The reason for no stainless on aluminum on exhaust is the heart cycles. If you simply do the Antisieze on exhaust, the bolts will loosen up and cause gasket leaks.

Blue Loctite the shit out of grade 8 Gold cad hardware and not only will they stay put, but easily removed without drama.

I feel the heat cycles causes moisture to be drawn in during cool off, make a corroding mess.

Just my opinion, this seems to be a proven method. Loctite on stainless seems worthless unless you use the red.

JMO

GT

makes sense. One thing i noticed was my rear motor plate bolts would loosen time to time. Until i put Red loctite on them

But that was stainless into iron

« **Reply #7 on:** January 06, 2017, 02:43:56 PM »

Quote from: steves86ta on January 06, 2017, 02:04:23 PM

makes sense. One thing i noticed was my rear motor plate bolts would loosen time to time. Until i put Red loctite on them

But that was stainless into iron

Only time I use stainless in iron is an Allen. Grade 8 steel anywhere I can.

Stainless look sweet, but is not very strong.

« **Reply #8 on:** January 06, 2017, 02:45:56 PM »

Quote from: GT Jets on January 06, 2017, 02:43:56 PM

Only time I use stainless in iron is an Allen. Grade 8 steel anywhere I can.

Stainless look sweet, but is not very strong.

I used Allen for everything

« **Reply #9 on:** January 06, 2017, 03:02:24 PM »

Quote from: steves86ta on January 06, 2017, 02:45:56 PM

I used Allen for everything

« **Reply #10 on:** January 06, 2017, 03:07:42 PM »

Quote from: GT Jets on January 06, 2017, 03:02:24 PM

mcmaster carr... :-)

« **Reply #11 on:** March 11, 2017, 12:59:19 AM »

Quote from: GT Jets on January 01, 2017, 03:01:22 PM

Do not use stainless in aluminum.

Use cadmium if you can find it and blue loctite like it's free.

Do you use blue loctite on regular grade 5 or 8 steel exhaust studs in iron heads?

« **Reply #12 on:** March 11, 2017, 01:10:12 AM »

Quote from: seapat on March 11, 2017, 12:59:19 AM

Do you use blue loctite on regular grade 5 or 8 steel exhaust studs in iron heads?

Yes, but not necessarily for the locking benefit, more the sealing properties. Once the head reaches 300°F, the Loctite would be soft.

GT

Sent from my SM-G900V using SoCal Jet Boats mobile app

« **Reply #13 on:** March 11, 2017, 01:30:25 PM »

If you broke the stud off in log... drill it out an install a time sert. This will bring the hole back to the 5/16 an retain the integrity. The cheapo pack of 4 stud kit from any local auto joint works fine. I've replaced many with 100% results even after years or breakdown to replace gaskets. Use locktite on the threads going into log an just black silicone around gaskets an threads through the snail. The silicone is fine for the nut. Just check them after first trip an recheck every now an then...

« **Reply #14 on:** March 11, 2017, 02:52:53 PM »

I'm going to put on some lighting headers. The 1 3/4 studs are to long a couple of the nuts are hard to get on. Tight fit.
Hardin or cp does not sell short stud kits for headers only bolts?
What are most header guys using?

« **Reply #15 on:** March 11, 2017, 11:47:58 PM »

Quote from: seapat on March 11, 2017, 02:52:53 PM

I'm going to put on some lighting headers. The 1 3/4 studs are to long a couple of the nuts are hard to get on. Tight fit.
Hardin or cp does not sell short stud kits for headers only bolts?
What are most header guys using?

No studs, I use Percy's locking spline drive.

GT

Sent from my SM-G900V using SoCal Jet Boats mobile app

Jetboat949

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