Ok, I think I found how to get the oil out. I found a plug at the top of the filter housing. If I remove it I could attaattatch a hose to a fitting and screw it in. Then crank the engine without spark to pump the oil out. Does this sound right?

Ok, I think I found how to get the oil out. I found a plug at the top of the filter housing. If I remove it I could attaattatch a hose to a fitting and screw it in. Then crank the engine without spark to pump the oil out. Does this sound right?

ARE YOU CRAZY

pull the drain plug and let it drain in the bildge first then suck it out of the bildge

or lift the motor out like most of us do and drain the oil

I've got an old fuel pump that I reduced the line to fit in the dip stick hole in the pan.

Back in the day, they use to remove the oil pressure sending unit and thread in a fitting with a hose on it.
Fire the motor until the oil sputtered then shut it down.

turning the motor over while the plug is out is a great way to make sure all the oil is out.  while youre at it, you want to make sure that no old oil is left in the motor, so take some sand and pour it in and then rinse it out with your hose.  that should get things nice and clean.

  can we be a little more supportive to the newer members around here?

Your best bet if the boat has not been run on a long time is to get the bow as high as possible, pull the drain plug out of the oil pan, not the block and let it flow out the bildge in to a drain pan. Good luck.

Probably you're best bet. Depending on what oil pan and where the drain plug is, it could now be rigged with a fitting, valve and hose so next time all you do is stick the hose out the hole where the hull drain plug goes, open the valve, and wait.....drink beer whatever.

If it's an automotive pan, the drain plug is likely on the bottom of the pan and a triple jointed midget couldn't get it out.  Then you are left to pulling the engine, as Ralph said, or at least up some, pulling the plug and draining into a pan or the bilge, or sucking it out the dipstick tube with a Motive like vacuum pump. You'd need that either way in this case. Hit Summit Racing or Jeg's up and search Motive.

Ray

Edit: Running on the hose, post some pics of what motor mounts, etc, you have. Should always disconnect the driveline from the engine, then hook the hose to the engine. Start the engine, then CAREFULLY open the hose water so water flows at very low pressure out of the O/B dumps or exhausts.  Sometimes impossible to disconnect the driveines with some mount combinations, and what I HAVE done, is run a pair of hoses from another hose bib on the house, one up the intake and the other up the nozzle as far as I can get it, wide open. Don't do that in the driveway! You're gonna soak down your entire garage, house, anything nearby. If anything, point the rear of the boat at the neighbors house or the street doing it this way.

Probably you're best bet. Depending on what oil pan and where the drain plug is, it could now be rigged with a fitting

Not too sure what pan it is. My father refered to it a a jet pan but is unsure of the manufacturer or intended application. I do know I can't see the drain plug and the pan comes within 1/2 inch of the bottom of the boat so i doubt I can install a valve and hose to the plug hole. Thanks for the tips on running the boat. I'm not planning on upping the RPM's. I'm just going to run it a bit to make sure everything is kosher.

Not too sure what pan it is. My father refered to it a a jet pan but is unsure of the manufacturer or intended application. I do know I can't see the drain plug and the pan comes within 1/2 inch of the bottom of the boat so i doubt I can install a valve and hose to the plug hole. Thanks for the tips on running the boat. I'm not planning on upping the RPM's. I'm just going to run it a bit to make sure everything is kosher.

If it's a jet pan, it'll have a drain plug at one of the bottom, rear, side corners of the pan. I HAVE seen a couple with them in the middle rear, but those have also had another in the former location. 

And yeah, what Bob said! 

Ray

Don't have any suggestions on engine-in-boat methods. Always pulled the motor but then it was set up for it and I built myself a nice A-frame. All electrical went through one aircraft plug, one gas line, one water line, tack cable, four bolts and undo the Lenco drive line with an Allen wrench. oil and fuel pressure stayed on the motor. Took ten minutes. 

On the oil drain i got a fram sure drain kit its like 12 bucks. it replaces your drain plug to a hose set up. then run the hose out your transon drain hole. no mess when it comes time for a oil change.

Same thing,  just different,  your fine.       

 Remember the #1 rule, if it aint broke, DONT FIX IT !!! 

Sounds good,
Should I maybe add another dump line to the open port on the t-stat? Also I noticed there is no gate valve on the boat Again, it could have been like this since 78'but don't I need one?

The gate valve on the dump side leave all the way open.  The only reason you would close it off if you can't get water to come out of thr headers until 3000 rpms or so.  I made the mistake of closing it and had too much water and over filled the headers and had water in oil.  You can get it close with a garden hose as far as opening the valve at 1800 but it will change In yhe water.  You will want to turn it down, meaning less water.  I actually just put some things in my lines to restrict the water bc I kept over filling the headers.  And don't adjust the bypass valve thinking its the inlet valve.  The inlet valve is before that.  I just went through this a few weeks ago and now I have it dialed.  Sorry to be long winded but the moral is you don't want water before 1800 and let it all flow out of the dump valve.

Also while you have the lines off andd the t valve off make sure they are cleaned and no crap in them that won't allow It to close properly.

O yeah, I checked them all. Everything was fairly clean including the block (used a borescope) except for the non restrictive T under the motor. It had a nasty white build up that clogged one side completely. I soaked it and cleaned it out with a tube brush, good as new.

Now I don't have a gate valve at all. From what your saying though, If the headers get wet at 1800 and everything runs smoothly then don't even add one? They probably will, This is how it's been plumed for as long as I can remember. I guess I should listen to Propless and Just re-install everything exactly how it was:

Remember the #1 rule, if it aint broke, DONT FIX IT !!! 

Thanks for the tips,
James