If your thru trans exhaust... Be careful on cam choice for reversion. Its a good idea to rebuild pump especially if engine will be out on new build knowing you just bought it. You could upgrade to better pump shaft ad stuffer ext...  Build the motor for a jet. Check on exhaust fitting to your style exhaust with those heads.

I have a few suggestions. Instead of Ford heads, why not use  a set of aftermarket aluminum heads? Not only are they lighter, but the exhaust ports flow way better than Ford iron heads. This is where you will see an improvement in performance. Also, I would be inclined to use a cam in the .600" lift, and around 280 degrees duration. This should give you the horsepower you are looking for if you use headers.

Also, I would be inclined to use a cam in the .600" lift, and around 280 degrees duration. This should give you the horsepower you are looking for if you use headers.

280 advertised duration or at .050?

I definitely agree on selecting a cam with the most lift for the duration to take advantage of the potential flow of whichever heads you choose.  A solid roller cam WILL require adjustable rockers.

I have been formulating an unofficial survey of lobe centers of some of the quickest NJBA boats.  All have lobe centers in the 114-120 degree range.

Bullet / Ultradyne Cams has some modern aggressive lobe profiles that make big power and don't hammer the valve train.

You might wanna take a look at this link    http://pantera.infopop.cc/eve/forums/a/tpc/f/5650045562/m/172102126

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Ok so I am using aluminum heads not irons. And the guy that is building my already talked to me about doing that to the lifters but yes it is more of a Cleveland motor thing not a 460. I did buy a set of headers for it but now the problem I'm having is finding where to buy the water injection tubes and also I am confused on how they plumb in. The research I have done talks about being careful not to over pressure the block and use gate valves. Is this something that a guy really needs to worry about in a just above mild build like I'm doing?

Oh and by the way my iron heads are ported and polished and they do just fine

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You can get the water lines at bassettracing.com

Could you get a used set of 460 lines an bend them to the New location? As far as the water flow goes, I run my gate all the way open all the time on my bbf. Bbf can handle it an not as temperamental as BBC or bbo. You could also have the headers hot jet coated an run em dry

With regards to your water cooling, I have had good success with an open bypass as well as a regulated bypass.  This setup allows the thermosat to control the engine temperature. The key is to be able to maintain 15- 20 p.s.i. That's how the cooling system is designed, and it works that way, no heating up at idle, and no overcooling at running speed. For what it's worth.

351 or 460 they have the same problem I have a 460 n use to only last me for about 4, 3, or sometimes once n always my bottom end it use to go out it was a headache having to rebuild my engine a few times every season till i did the lifter bushing mod n that fix the problem last season I to the boat out about 45 times with no problems I think  Sabert79  should look into it  before putting the engine together

The primary purpose of installing the lifter bore bushings in the passenger car blocks is to prevent oil pressure loss if a lifter pops out of the bore.  Short of the lifter popping out of its bore, the bushings do little for oil pressure safety in a good running engine.  So if your previous rebuilt short blocks are failing in just 1, 2, or 3 trips without popping out a lifter then you have engine rebuild issues and should look for another engine builder.  On the other hand, if you mean to say that you were popping out lifters every 1, 2, or, 3 trips then you have similar issues just the same, and bushing the lifter bores does not prevent the lifters from popping out their bores.

The most common reason for lifters popping out of their bores is over revving, resulting in a bent pushrod, resulting in a lifter getting pushed out of its bore.  Over revving often happens in jet boats when the boat operator stays wide open throttle over a wake and airs out the boat (unloads the impeller) and the engine hits a hi C.  That's not the engine's fault.

We've done thousands of horsepower without bushed lifter bores. The engine needs to be built right and also treated right.

With basic plumbing on the 460 you should have a gate valve at the pump the a line that runs to a T.  That T should feed both sides left and right of your water pump cover/housing. From there you should have one outlet from the thermostat housing that is the dump and one that feeds your headers. You can block the third thermostat hole. You should also consider a bypass to ensure proper pressure.


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So then if I want a ball valve to control how much water goes to the headers that goes before the tee valve correct? Or is that controlled by the gate on the pump?