Right now I have a hose coming straight off the pump that feeds the engine/headers w water. There is no valve in place to control how much water pressure goes to the engine? Thoughts on installing a gate/ball valve?

x10000000 Put a gate valve on it.

Right now I have a hose coming straight off the pump that feeds the engine/headers w water. There is no valve in place to control how much water pressure goes to the engine? Thoughts on installing a gate/ball valve?

What pump.

The gate valve will be the best investment you will make on your boat.

I have been using the Red and White 3/4" gate valve for decades. You cannot miss.

GT

Run hard line from pump to the gate... then whatever you want after that. I'd run a separate valve for headers but not a ball/T. If sand gets in there its either stuck open / closed.

Why hard pipe?

I don't care for rigid anything on s boat. Unless in can be braced very well.

I just run some 5/8" Push-Loc and clamps (overkill city). If you buy clamps for silicone hose is bulletproof.

JMHO.

GT

Coming off the pump to the gate with hardline is the easiest way. It's really just about 6-8" worth of nipple, then the gate, then flex line. That eliminates having to figure out bracing/brackets for the gate valve. Not enough hardline to be a stress break issue at all. Well, at least that I've ever experienced or heard of. Short runs keep it all out of the way, and keep the weight from being a stress issue at the pump end of the threads.

Just my 2¢.


Sent from my iPhone using SoCal Jet Boats

So here's the thing.

Brass fittings have to be lead free.  That being said, there is no more a such thing as red brass.

I have been a union pipefitter now for going on 20 years. The new brass is GARBAGE.

If you install a current 3/8" X 8" brass nipple in the pump and screw on a 3/4" gate valve and a reducer bushing, I would bet you a 1.75 of tasty adult beverage I could snap it off with one finger.

No thanks.  I would rather install something I can stomp on and not harm.

GT

Heater hose is very reliable. Nothing wrong with using that. It's lasts a very long time exposed to heat in the engine bay of a car, so in a boat it will last even longer.

Except.

The pressure from the pump to the gate valve can be extreme on a high horsepower deal. In excess of 150 pounds. Heater hose has a typical pressure rating of 140 minimum burst.

Push-Loc is good for over 500.

GT 

What is this PUSH LOC you speak of? Any pics?

It requires special barb fittings and can be purchased virtually anywhere Weatherhead, Parker and Eaton house and fittings are sold.

http://ph.parker.com/us/15551/en/push-lok-plus-multipurpose-hose-801

GT

So GT.... Are you saying you have only the barbed fitting coming off your pump, then the hose, valve, then hose? I am using a 6 inch nipple, valve, then fitting then hose. But i am using the push loc style hose and fittings the rest of the way.

Yes, the pump has a Push-Loc barb fitting and it goes to another Push-Loc barb at the gate valve.

I use hose clamps for silicone hose because I am OCD.

Nothing rigid.

GT

Short hard line off pump to gate is a bit safer than a blown rubber line.  It's just time or luck before an issue arrises.

Stainless pipe and fittings are easy to find, use them. You need the gate or ball valve for safety reasons, like when a freeze plug blows or rusts out, you don't want to sink the boat over that. Do not use the valve as a restriction to limit the water flow to the engine to get the temperature up, if you want the temp up, buy a jet-boat thermostat kit. When you are sitting in the water B.S.ing about whose boat is faster, and start up and floor it, it can take 40 seconds to near a minute to fully fill the block, and there you are at full throttle..... when the cold water hits the hot head, you get cracks, they start out small, but they grow. Try this yourself, with a dry block, connect the garden hose to the pump side of the valve at the opening you normally run it. Turn on the hose and see how long it takes for water to come out of the dump line. Put a pressure gauge in the motor and see how much pressure the pump is supplying while underway. The municipal water system is 50-60 pounds. Do the math.  Just sayin'  TIMINATOR

I have push lock on my entire engine....except for the hardline from pump to gate. I've replaced every push lock in the two years I've had em an going on the 2nd round. To each his own I experienced!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Question one, why are you having to replace the hose?  I have some 20 year old Weatherhead Push-Loc on my motor home.  I would hp in it and drive it to New York today.

Question two, how dis you determine these hoses needing replacing?

Not throwing punches, just very curious.

GT

Stainless pipe and fittings are easy to find, use them. You need the gate or ball valve for safety reasons, like when a freeze plug blows or rusts out, you don't want to sink the boat over that. Do not use the valve as a restriction to limit the water flow to the engine to get the temperature up, if you want the temp up, buy a jet-boat thermostat kit. When you are sitting in the water B.S.ing about whose boat is faster, and start up and floor it, it can take 40 seconds to near a minute to fully fill the block, and there you are at full throttle..... when the cold water hits the hot head, you get cracks, they start out small, but they grow. Try this yourself, with a dry block, connect the garden hose to the pump side of the valve at the opening you normally run it. Turn on the hose and see how long it takes for water to come out of the dump line. Put a pressure gauge in the motor and see how much pressure the pump is supplying while underway. The municipal water system is 50-60 pounds. Do the math.  Just sayin'  TIMINATOR

TIMINATOR,

Just to play nice.

On the thermostat kit for a jet boat.

I have used them. The do seem to control the OUTLET temperature of the cooling water.  But what keeps that same cold water from entering the front two cylinders?

Answer;  nothing at all.

On the taking 40 seconds to fill the block?

This is so fundamentally wrong I don't know where to begin.

My challenge is, I would love to see you prove this.

Jet boat in the water,  previously warmed up. Let the boat sit for as mind long as you want,  hit the key and monitor the dump line.

If this takes more than a second to go from bubbles to clear water, you have  blown head gasket. Plain and simple.

As for the not restricting the inlet water for control of flow. I am speechless.

GT

The cooling system seals on an engine are only designed for 13-15 psi or so. Putting 50-60 psi in an engine is stupid. It may hold on some engines, but there is no reason to raise the boiling point that high. A proper cooling system needs a restriction on the outlet (valve or an orifice in t-stat housing) to raise the pressure above 0 to raise the boiling point over 212F and to help keep steam pockets from forming.

If you really want to control the temp correctly a closed system with a heat exchanger would be a better idea.

The flow into the engine is the best way to control pressure.  The outlet capability determines that flow. Really should not be the other way around, but I see where your headed.

GT