SoCal Jet Boats
Tech Talk => Engine Mechanical / Electrical => Topic started by: jamminjetta on August 12, 2014, 02:42:34 PM
-
Hi I'm wade. I'm having problems with getting hot. 87 carrera eagle ,454 ,12jg , logs and snails. Just put in new impeller and wear ring. Noticed its steaming from exhaust and logs are real hot to touch.
-
Hi I'm wade. I'm having problems with getting hot. 87 carrera eagle ,454 ,12jg , logs and snails. Just put in new impeller and wear ring. Noticed its steaming from exhaust and logs are real hot to touch.
Love to help you out. A little more information is needed.
Had it always run hot?
Are you running t-stat?
Is there any sort of valve in the system?
How its it plumbed?
How hot we talking?
GT
Sent from my SGH-T989 using SoCal Jet Boats mobile app
-
No thermostat , don't know how hot. Temp sender will be here in the morning. 1 valve in supply hose. All the way open.hotter than it usually gets. Noticing lots of steam ,snails are to hot to touch. Just rebuilt pump and replaced imp and wear ring.
Sent from my iPad using SoCal Jet Boats
-
No thermostat , don't know how hot. Temp sender will be here in the morning. 1 valve in supply hose. All the way open.hotter than it usually gets. Noticing lots of steam ,snails are to hot to touch. Just rebuilt pump and replaced imp and wear ring.
Sent from my iPad using SoCal Jet Boats
snails will get very warm and some stream is normal.
Get the gage going and shoot a number at us.
-beerjet-
-
Steam is normal. Snails are always smokin' hot from the git go. Logs should not be hot, just barely warm if engine is running. Is this a noticeable change, or are you just now noticing these aspects of a new to you boat?
-
Bought it last year. I'm just noticing it though. Just rebuilt pump last week
Sent from my iPhone using SoCal Jet Boats
-
hi, i read either somewhere on here or on another jet boat forum about someone having a similar issue. i dont remember if he specified if he had recently rebuilt pump....however...he did have an overheating issue. turns out he had a small pebble/rock stuck in one of his valves. he found it after troubleshooting...process of elimination... said pebble restricted water flow enough to cause it to run hot. could be worth a look... :-\
or.....maybe now that your pump is fresh and tight, motor works a little harder, runs a tad hotter, and its become noticeable to you.... that be my guess (not sure if this would apply)...especially if youre running just as hard as before pump rebuild.
-
Holeshot is greater but top end is about the same. Guess logs could have sand in them.
Sent from my iPhone using SoCal Jet Boats
-
yeah, from what i hear...hole shot is imporved....top speed is fairly consistent....with a few lower revs, depending on how much it was slipping before.
i havent read about sand getting into logs/snails....but i wont say it isnt possible!
-
Do you wash out your block every season? I get at least a coffee cup+ full of sand every season. You shouldnt run your gate valve all the way open on a chevy or olds but ford is okay.
-
I just pulled both drain cocks and got out a little sand but not a whole lot.
Sent from my iPhone using SoCal Jet Boats
-
You have to jam a straw or wire in the drain as you turn the water on/off for some time to even get close to getting some of it out. The water will just pass over the sand as its running but soon as you turn it off the sand will go towards drain.
-
Well I hooked up a mechanical temp gauge and went and drove boat really hard and only got it up to 190. I guess I'm happy for now.
Sent from my iPhone using SoCal Jet Boats
-
How warm is the water your running in an how far do you have the valve open. You should be able to have that valve at 3/4 with temps a bit lower.
-
Waay too hot... Did you ever get any pictures of the set up?
GT
-
Oh crap. Not happy
Sent from my iPhone using SoCal Jet Boats
-
Here are a couple of pics. Not the best but maybe they will help. These are for you gt
Sent from my iPhone using SoCal Jet Boats
-
Stuck in Oklahoma on this drilling rig. All I can think about is days off.
Sent from my iPhone using SoCal Jet Boats
-
Ok since my gauge had never worked what temp should my engine be running.
Sent from my iPad using SoCal Jet Boats
-
Ok since my gauge had never worked what temp should my engine be running.
Sent from my iPad using SoCal Jet Boats
With the pictures you provided, balls out, I would be comfortable saying in the 120° to 150°F range, at idle, never more than 160°F.
My opinion, your results may vary...
GT
-
When I get home I'll try getting more sand outta the water jacket. Guess I'll try the zip tie in the drain holes on each side of the block. Any more suggestions?
Sent from my iPad using SoCal Jet Boats
-
Well I've been flushing my block out with a garden hose. Got more sand out but not a whole lot. Guess I'm gonna go to the lake and see what kinda temp I have. I run a zip tie in the drain holes seemed like I got more sand out that way.
Sent from my iPad using SoCal Jet Boats
-
Maybe u did this already but unhook the inlet to the block hook up your hose and make sure that it is not restricted first.
Also how does the oil look? I mean the water is coming out the exhaust right and not restricted on the exit?
-
No restrictions anywhere that I can tell. I ran water every direction through the block. Water comes out both exhaust evenly. Oil looks good.
Sent from my iPad using SoCal Jet Boats
-
Could there be a restriction from the pump to the block inlet
-
Could there be a restriction from the pump to the block inlet
X2
if you have a valve between pump and block....Check it as well. You can run engine on hose and Check if it over heats. Be sure to squirt some water in bowl....thru intake or hand hole. If it over heats....problem could existon engine side. Also, dont turn hose wide open....you don't need that much pressure.
-
Ran on the hose for a little bit. Got up to about 150. Only opened the hose a little bit. Ain't went to the lake yet. It started raining here
Sent from my iPad using SoCal Jet Boats
-
Ran on the hose for a little bit. Got up to about 150. Only opened the hose a little bit. Ain't went to the lake yet. It started raining here
Sent from my iPad using SoCal Jet Boats
i had same prob i just turned hose on all the way...still steamed but temp went down..just my 2 lol
Sent from my PantechP9070 using SoCal Jet Boats mobile app
-
Maybe u did this already but unhook the inlet to the block hook up your hose and make sure that it is not restricted first.
Also how does the oil look? I mean the water is coming out the exhaust right and not restricted on the exit?
water pressure might just suck like it does in my front yard ..lol
Sent from my PantechP9070 using SoCal Jet Boats mobile app
-
did it max out at 150 or did you shut it down? have you checked pump cooling water port....or look in thru intake...see anything obvious?
-
Everything in pump looks fine. I did back flush cooling port and stuck a wire through it backwards.
Sent from my iPad using SoCal Jet Boats
-
ok, we can scratch that off the list. do you have any valves between pump and block? if so, check those to obstructions....if you havent already. if all is good....we can focus on the engine side. (do you trust gauge?)
-
Yea I guess I trust the gauge. It's a brand new mechanical one. I did check the valve and it's fine too. I just got home from lake. 180 at idle and 150 going faster.
Sent from my iPhone using SoCal Jet Boats
-
Sounds like you may have fixed your problem
-
Hopefully it will last the rest of the summer. Maybe this winter new cam and heads.
Sent from my iPhone using SoCal Jet Boats
-
Keep an eye on your temp....and Check that water doesn't get into your oil, that can end a weekend :mad:
Be safe.
-
You might want to add an oil temp gauge. Water temp doesn't mean a whole lot when you have an entire lake passing through the engine at high velocity.
IMHO, if you dont have a thermostat or restriction to flow, 150F is very hot. Under way, the water shouldn't have time for that much heat transfer. Once on the throttle, the temp should drop quick.
It would be nice to know what your oil is doing so you don't cook your engine.
Good luck,
Joe
Sent from my SCH-I535 using SoCal Jet Boats mobile app
-
I've done all I know to do. What's the next step? Knock out some freeze plugs and check that there ain't more sand in engine
Sent from my iPhone using SoCal Jet Boats
-
yeah....running temp and idle temp have been somewhat of a debate. some say running temp should be around the 160* mark...with idle seeing maybe 175-180*. others feel thats too warm. too cold of an engine reduces efficiency...increases wear(so im told). do some searching around and choose for yourself as to what temp you wanna run your engine.
-
All marine engines should be run UNDER 160°F....
GT
-
All marine engines should be run UNDER 160°F....
GT
Hey GT, is that under 160 at idle also?
Sent with my Fingers
-
Hey GT, is that under 160 at idle also?
Sent with my Fingers
Yup.
GT
-
Hey GT, is that under 160 at idle also?
Sent with my Fingers
Maybe you need to understand why... This also will cover why I disagree with bypass style thermostats.
When your jet boat motor is at idle, there is little to no block pressure and very low water flow. This lowers the boiling point of water. The higher the pressure, the higher the related boiling point. Having the proper flow will determine the water temperature. That being said, without having the margin of safety of being below 160°F at idle, you run the risk of hot spots (aka, steam pockets) and causing permanent damage to the engine. Basically over heating one or two cylinders (most likely the rear cylinders) and killing parts like valves and pistons.
The reason the motor will cool off while hard under way is the increased water flow through the engine, if set up correctly, the block pressure should go up to about 15 PSI and the temp will typically drop to approximately 15°F up to about 25°F. You can run it warmer, but why? 120°F to 140°F is in my mind perfect.
Bypass thermostats, without the use of a block mounted automotive water pump, cause more problems than they prevent. They work great at WOT, but at idle, can cause these steam pockets to form in the heads and be extremely detrimental. With a block mounted pump, the system works better because the water temperature is more homogeneous.
Another dumb fact is that salt water drops out salts at anything above about 165°F, that means salt can actually block the water passages if left with low flow. Not a real problem in most of our worlds, but betting it could become an issue at say Long Beach Marine Stadium during the races... As an example.
You always hear stories of marine engines "dropping a valve", it is sometimes caused by a very hot cylinder head and causing the valve to stick in the guide until the piston comes up to visit and smacks it right in the face... Not always, but betting 50% of the time. This same issue can cause bent push-rods and broken or pulled head studs...
GT
-
I can sure pull my engine and knock out the freeze plugs iff that will help?
Sent from my iPhone using SoCal Jet Boats
-
Do you have any idea what the running block pressure is?
Also too, I sure don't like the looks of the two street 90's and the barb fittings in the top of the intake manifold... Not saying that is the problem, but look suspect to me.
Try to get a temperature coming out of the exhaust manifolds and also out of the block... Does it run good? not popping like it is lean or anything?
GT
-
Maybe you need to understand why... This also will cover why I disagree with bypass style thermostats.
Bypass thermostats, without the use of a block mounted automotive water pump, cause more problems than they prevent. They work great at WOT, but at idle, can cause these steam pockets to form in the heads and be extremely detrimental. With a block mounted pump, the system works better because the water temperature is more homogeneous.
GT
so, from what ive learned, you should use a bypass t-stat with a bypass manifold. in the bypass position, it recirculates water thru block, bypassing "radiator", so it warms up faster. then at operating temp....sends water thru radiator, and closes bypass port. what i dont fully understand is how this is bad in our application. i understand the automotive water pump circulates water.....does this not happen with the water flow/supply from pump?
please excuse my ignorance....just seeking more knowledge on the subject.... as my engine has a setup i have not seen on these forums. its a berkeley packajet.... i can look up info on it....but not enough info for me. just vaguely says hows its designed to work and why its better, yada yada....
-
so, from what ive learned, you should use a bypass t-stat with a bypass manifold. in the bypass position, it recirculates water thru block, bypassing "radiator", so it warms up faster. then at operating temp....sends water thru radiator, and closes bypass port.
Nope... Without a pump to circulate, the water simply just goes "around" the engine. Stopping most of the flow through the engine. Very common misconception.
what i dont fully understand is how this is bad in our application. i understand the automotive water pump circulates water....
Bingo.
does this not happen with the water flow/supply from pump?
please excuse my ignorance....
No excuse necessary, there is no flow (or a reduction of flow) when the bypass stat systems are used (this is like the one from CP and others).
just seeking more knowledge on the subject.... as my engine has a setup i have not seen on these forums.
Hit me with a picture bubba! Love new chit..
its a berkeley packajet.... i can look up info on it....but not enough info for me. just vaguely says hows its designed to work and why its better, yada yada....
Sure enough..
GT
-
Nope... Without a pump to circulate, the water simply just goes "around" the engine. Stopping most of the flow through the engine. Very common misconception.
i see. so engine fills with water....then water sits there, stagnate, heating up. if boat has a pressure relief bypass set up then excess water flows thru it. once t-stat opens....then water 'flows' or moves thru engine. cooling it. but buy then....engine could have gotten too hot (?)
No excuse necessary, there is no flow (or a reduction of flow) when the bypass stat systems are used (this is like the one from CP and others).
hmm....ok.
Hit me with a picture bubba! Love new chit..
so heres a pic of my set up. info i found said it was a make up type system. water from pump enters that housing...then runs thru block and/or gets diverted out to exhaust if t-stat is closed. when open....it flows thru block and exhaust. so water always moves thru exhaust and only thur engine when t-stat opens. it mentions something about a circulating pump....ive tried looking for pics of this set up on line...VERY few if any pics...non of which are disassembled....so i dont know if theres something running off of cam...
system seems to work. had engine running on hose...i can see gauge rise and fall when t-stat opens....gauge reads way too hot 210*, could be faulty. t-stat is new...160* if i remember right. previous t-stat stuck closed. hasnt been in water since. and since then, ive started tearing into it to redo stringers among other things. doubtful itll get wet this year.
Sure enough..
GT
-
The one you have labeled "to circulation pump" needs to have the arrow flipped around, otherwise yup...
The water simply bypasses the engine when it's cold... No hockus pokus, these actually work OK at WOT, but could cause issues if the thermostat used was warmer than a 160°F.
Still a bypass system.
GT
-
Thanks for the clarification GT, I had mine set at 140 at cruise if I'd go straight to idle it would touch 170-175 then even out around 160-165...
Sent with my Fingers
-
Thanks for the clarification GT, I had mine set at 140 at cruise if I'd go straight to idle it would touch 170-175 then even out around 160-165...
Sent with my Fingers
That sounds about perfect. The reason it rises like that is heat soak. Perfectly normal.
GT
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I927 using SoCal Jet Boats mobile app
-
That sounds about perfect. The reason it rises like that is heat soak. Perfectly normal.
GT
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I927 using SoCal Jet Boats mobile app
That's what I figured, if whenever I could, I would take it down to around 1800rpm for a minute before letting it set at about 1000rpm, I wouldn't ever have the heat soak issue
Sent with my Fingers
-
The one you have labeled "to circulation pump" needs to have the arrow flipped around, otherwise yup...
The water simply bypasses the engine when it's cold... No hockus pokus, these actually work OK at WOT, but could cause issues if the thermostat used was warmer than a 160°F.
Still a bypass system.
Are you familiar with this system?
Is there a circulating pump as info says?
Also...does this system suffer from over pressurizing of block?
Sorry for the highjack...
-
There is no pump. Just s little different way of plumbing it.
And all systems have the potential for over pressurization.
Turn the water down until a temp rise at idle is realized. ...
With logs, the least amount of water possible mixing in the risers will allow better exhaust flow and improved performance.
GT
Sent from my SCH-I545 using SoCal Jet Boats mobile app
-
There is no pump. Just s little different way of plumbing it.
got it...
Turn the water down until a temp rise at idle is realized. ...
there is no valve. supply comes straight from pump to that housing....then goes into block and into & out of exhaust then out thru ..water exits exhausts
With logs, the least amount of water possible mixing in the risers will allow better exhaust flow and improved performance.
so are there just two types of exhaust, logs and headers? i thought logs looked like .....logs which then go to snails. i have center rise exhaust, no snails.
:beer: :beer:
GT
-
got it...
there is no valve. supply comes straight from pump to that housing....then goes into block and into & out of exhaust then out thru ..water exits exhausts
IMHO, you should always have a valve, even if it is wide open. Lets just say you blow a hose off the engine... With a valve, you can isolate it and keep the boat from sinking.
so are there just two types of exhaust, logs and headers? i thought logs looked like .....logs which then go to snails. i have center rise exhaust, no snails.
:beer: :beer:
Well, sort of, there are actually six.
1. Old school logs and risers.
2. Logs with OT pipes.
3. Center riser manifolds.
3. Headers over transom.
4. headers over transom
5. through transom headers.
6. water jacketed headers (typically through transom, but have seen over).
They all have there idiosyncrasies and issues, logs with through transom risers have the least performance, but more often than not, the least amount of issues. Center riser fall under the same category.
Just my opinions.
GT
-
ha. i just re-read the 'info' on this cooling deal. whats written is not exactly what i have. i describes an automotive type water pump, which is supplied by jet, circulates water thru engine. other than the pump...its as i described previously. hence why i asked about a pump...
ill look into getting a valve installed...for safety.
cant help feel like i have an odd ball cooling setup...that no one else uses....and it must be for a reason.
-
All I ran was -8 from the pump into the motor with a gate valve at the pump. Then had -10 out. Temp stayed consistent and was very simple.... I ran dry headers so had no worries about the basset T
Sent with my Fingers
-
ha. i just re-read the 'info' on this cooling deal. whats written is not exactly what i have. i describes an automotive type water pump, which is supplied by jet, circulates water thru engine. other than the pump...its as i described previously. hence why i asked about a pump...
ill look into getting a valve installed...for safety.
cant help feel like i have an odd ball cooling setup...that no one else uses....and it must be for a reason.
Not really, you have a very common system. They actually work very well. The big issue on your is I believe it utilizes a sheet metal water pump backing plate and they are prone to rusting through...
GT
-
Not really, you have a very common system. They actually work very well. The big issue on your is I believe it utilizes a sheet metal water pump backing plate and they are prone to rusting through...
GT
i havent seen anyone on here with a similar set up....or even when googled. i take it the concept of my set up is whats common. yes...?
as far as sheet metal...not sure. there is a fair amount of rust on the entire motor. outer cover is aluminum.
-
I'm pulling the engine this evening and knocking out all the freeze plugs and washing out the water jacket.
Sent from my iPad probably bored at work! Lol!
-
Water jacket plum full of sand on back two cylinders.
Sent from my iPhone using SoCal Jet Boats
-
$hit man! good call :thumbup:
-
I dont know GT.
Kinda looks like I see you "not advising against" a T-Stat and bypass system here.
Even looks like you agree with the 160* temp
Im not saying your saying to use it! Just saying it sounds like you warmed up to the idea slightly.
-
I dont know GT.
Kinda looks like I see you "not advising against" a T-Stat and bypass system here.
Even looks like you agree with the 160* temp
Im not saying your saying to use it! Just saying it sounds like you warmed up to the idea slightly.
Let me answer you this way. Which I hope is taken diplomatically.
I have used thermostats on marine engines. I have used both styles (with and without engine pumps).
I have seen the bypass type kits do some really wonky stuff to engines, the water pump type is bulletproof.
As for "recommending" the bypass stat kit... no. But if you have one and you feel it works, I will not tell you you need to pull it off. I will just warn you of the potential issues.
As for the "160 degree temp" that is the highest temp I recommend on an open system... So I wrote it as 160 or less. ...
A warm engine does in no way make more power. No one has ever proven that.
GT
Sent from my SCH-I545 using SoCal Jet Boats mobile app
-
I just wanted to point out before you seemed totally against it and wanted to do nothing more than tell me how much of a bad idea it was to run one and just stick with the gate valve.
You also made it seem I was crazy to wanna run 160 temp and you told me if you cold you would run as cold as you could.
Let me point out your Grand dads advise and what he meant was everyone has something to learn. I know you have tons of knowledge my gripe before was you seemed closed minded to the setup I run many run and how it helped me in my situation and made it seem like I was trying to steer someone the wrong direction. My point is for someone that seemed (maybe you werent) totally against it before your tune has changed.
Just seems to me maybe you think a little differently about it now. It be cool if you said yeah your right but Im sure Ill get something telling me how I'm wrong again.
-
I just wanted to point out before you seemed totally against it and wanted to do nothing more than tell me how much of a bad idea it was to run one and just stick with the gate valve.
You also made it seem I was crazy to wanna run 160 temp and you told me if you cold you would run as cold as you could.
Let me point out your Grand dads advise and what he meant was everyone has something to learn. I know you have tons of knowledge my gripe before was you seemed closed minded to the setup I run many run and how it helped me in my situation and made it seem like I was trying to steer someone the wrong direction. My point is for someone that seemed (maybe you werent) totally against it before your tune has changed.
Just seems to me maybe you think a little differently about it now. It be cool if you said yeah your right but Im sure Ill get something telling me how I'm wrong again.
Just get a gate valve... :banghead: 130*-135* all day long
Dan'l
-
Not my point. Ive had 3 boats 2 with just gates. Not my point at all. My point is he changed his tune and I want him to fess up
-
You slams someones advice then talk about it later as a possible suggestion I gotta call that out. Especially if maybe what we discussed he thought about and something changed his mind.
-
I have no dog in this fight but I like the safety of mine.
Sent from my XT1080 using SoCal Jet Boats mobile app
-
You slams someones advice then talk about it later as a possible suggestion I gotta call that out. Especially if maybe what we discussed he thought about and something changed his mind.
Never slammed any advice. What I repeatedly saidwas that it is not needed in 90% of all cases.
You were saying your way was the "ONLY way" which is why you got a debate.
It is still not needed in my opinion, but got tired of having to explain the why and the why not to people like you.
If you absolutely MUST have all that crap, have at it.
I just wanted to point out before you seemed totally against it and wanted to do nothing more than tell me how much of a bad idea it was to run one and just stick with the gate valve.
You also made it seem I was crazy to wanna run 160 temp and you told me if you cold you would run as cold as you could.
Let me point out your Grand dads advise and what he meant was everyone has something to learn. I know you have tons of knowledge my gripe before was you seemed closed minded to the setup I run many run and how it helped me in my situation and made it seem like I was trying to steer someone the wrong direction. My point is for someone that seemed (maybe you werent) totally against it before your tune has changed.
Just seems to me maybe you think a little differently about it now. It be cool if you said yeah your right but Im sure Ill get something telling me how I'm wrong again.
Again. Either completely out of context or your reading comprehension sucks.
160 AT THE WARMEST AT IDLE.
The engine will run fine at 130 balls out. Must have said it a hundred times.
Everybody things that their set up is the best and that's great, but if someone has a problem that can be fixed with $20 worth of crap from an Ace Hardware, that is what I will recommend.
All the other crap is unnecessary if you follow some common sense.
GT
Sent from my SCH-I545 using SoCal Jet Boats mobile app
-
Well I did learn to read on the Richmond Unified School district however I think your old ass is loosing his memory.
Heres my original post
-
Well I did learn to read on the Richmond Unified School district however I think your old ass is loosing his memory.
Heres my original post
Last post against you... Your first sentence confirms what I just said... "you need a regulator off your pump".... No, you actually don't.
edit;
However, if you did install one and your system was set up even in the ball park, it will never do a damn thing, so if and when you do need it, it will be corroded closed.
GT
-
Dude don't make me re-post the whole damn thing.
He asked how to fix Pressure. Pressure is NOT controlled by a gate valve. Period. If you say it does you havent leared shit in yoyr 30 yrs working on anything.
-
Dude don't make me re-post the whole damn thing.
He asked how to fix Pressure. Pressure is NOT controlled by a gate valve. Period. If you say it does you havent leared shit in yoyr 30 yrs working on anything.
You know, it is really sad, I thought you finally figured out that it indeed does control pressure.
If you limit the inlet water FLOW, and have a properly sized outlet, the pressure CANNOT exceed the flow potential. Ever.... In a bazillion years. It's like trying to fill a bucket with a 2" hole in the bottom.
If it does not limit pressure, then why does it seem to work so well?
Dude, I would quit while you are ahead. I am a union pipe fitter/steamfitter-refrigeration service Jpurneyman. I get paid to show people what is wrong with shit that is way more technical than a Berkeley jet pump and a big block Chevy...
GT
-
Yeah. You install the valve. Guess who runs the Process and controls Process flow. Guess who watches that flow with flow meters. Guess who Manipulates that process flow with process equipment. Guess who uses gate valves ONLY TO START AND STOP FLOW. Gates do not control shit. They reduce water flow near the open or shut position and are not made to control flow. In fact nothing kills a gate quicker than trying to control flow. To control flow we use control valves regulators needle valves anything that throttles. A gate is not one. I take very precise measurements and in your boat it doesn't need to be. You just let it flow through the block at an undetermined rate.
Dont try to school me cause u bolt the fucking valve on
Google gate valve on wiki it says it right there if u dont wanna take a Head Operator at a Hydroprocessing facility for the largest Co. In Cali. word for it.
-
Yeah. You install the valve. Guess who runs the Process and controls Process flow. Guess who watches that flow with flow meters. Guess who Manipulates that process flow with process equipment. Guess who uses gate valves ONLY TO START AND STOP FLOW. Gates do not control shit. They reduce water flow near the open or shut position and are not made to control flow. In fact nothing kills a gate quicker than trying to control flow. To control flow we use control valves regulators needle valves anything that throttles. A gate is not one. I take very precise measurements and in your boat it doesn't need to be. You just let it flow through the block at an undetermined rate.
Dont try to school me cause u bolt the ******* valve on
Google gate valve on wiki it says it right there if u dont wanna take a Head Operator at a Hydroprocessing facility for the largest Co. In Cali. word for it.
It is the sloppy Cv of the gate valve that makes it work.
Oh yeah, I also no longer give two flying turds..
I do not install it, I tell you why it don't work....
You still haven't stated where I have provided misinformation. Because I do not believe I have steered anyone in the wrong direction. If I have, I obviously apologize...
Don't know where this is coming from. You should see me on FB, there are some major idiots over there. I find it very entertaining, because I hate football and don't watch much television...
GT
-
Current AMA racer ridden for 29yrs Ill be 34 next month
heres pics of my bikes just so u know my creds too
-
Man y'all sure fucked up my thread. Good job!!
Sent from my iPhone using SoCal Jet Boats
-
Man y'all sure fucked up my thread. Good job!!
Sent from my iPhone using SoCal Jet Boats
apologies fellas....but this made me laugh.... ::)
-
Man y'all sure fucked up my thread. Good job!!
Sent from my iPhone using SoCal Jet Boats
LOL, sorry, you just need a Shop Vac and a box of freeze plugs LOL... Oh yeah, and quit dredging a channel... :screwy:
But seriously, you need to plumb water into your drain plugs and keep that chit moving.
Moving forward, maybe put an Expansion seal plug in the rear holes for cleaning purposes? you can even buy them with a pressurizing fitting...
Just thinking out loud..
GT
-
Holy christ, this turned into a pissin' match.
Looks to me like Jetfever got his g-string in a wad real quick.
Glenn, correct me if I'm wrong. I understand the theory of pressure vs. volume. But if you restrict the volume enough, this,in a sense will in turn somehwhat "reduce" or "restrict" pressure wouldn't it?
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I747 using SoCal Jet Boats mobile app
-
I can't bite my tongue any longer. You're both right BUT with a simple gate valve you are able to control pressure ONLY because you have an outlet that never shuts off. If the outlet did shut off THEN you would have to use a prv. That's it! End of story
Sent from my SPH-L720 using SoCal Jet Boats mobile app
-
I should add that when I bought my boat it did have a prv and worked just fine. The reason I took it off and plumbed it with a gate valve was because I was afraid the prv would fail (it's mechanical). I like the saying "keep it simple stupid"
Sent from my SPH-L720 using SoCal Jet Boats mobile app
-
Holy christ, this turned into a pissin' match.
Looks to me like Jetfever got his g-string in a wad real quick.
Glenn, correct me if I'm wrong. I understand the theory of pressure vs. volume. But if you restrict the volume enough, this,in a sense will in turn somehwhat "reduce" or "restrict" pressure wouldn't it?
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I747 using SoCal Jet Boats mobile app
Not real sure how to answer this.
Without volume, there is no pressure. So I guess yes.
If the inlet volume does not exceed the capability of the outlets, there is no way pressure can get past a certain point.
The max pressure of the jet pump at WOT is pretty consistent. Which is why it becomes set and forget.
Something that seems to get lost in all this.
GT
Sent from my SCH-I545 using SoCal Jet Boats mobile app
-
Well I played hard all day. Boat ran fine all day as well. Didn't have any overheating issues.
Sent from my iPhone using SoCal Jet Boats
-
Well I played hard all day. Boat ran fine all day as well. Didn't have any overheating issues.
Sent from my iPhone using SoCal Jet Boats
Cool... (pun totally intended).
GT