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bluegoose95401

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header question
« on: May 22, 2012, 09:20:32 PM »
i have a set of basset water cooled headers and was wondering how much fog is normal to com out of them i haven't taken it to the lake yet just started it on the trailer with a garden hose hook up i tried to keep them from fogging a lot but i noticed that some time one side fogs more than the other is this normal or are they supposed have equal amounts of fog at all times 
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GT Jets

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Re: header question
« Reply #1 on: May 22, 2012, 10:14:46 PM »
i have a set of basset water cooled headers and was wondering how much fog is normal to com out of them i haven't taken it to the lake yet just started it on the trailer with a garden hose hook up i tried to keep them from fogging a lot but i noticed that some time one side fogs more than the other is this normal or are they supposed have equal amounts of fog at all times

It is MHO that you can't tell crap on the hose.....Also FWIW, unless your running it at over 1500 RPM you should have the water turned down enough to see NO steam from the header pipes...

Also, they virtually NEVER flow dead even...Don't know why. :-\
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If i get some free time tonight at work, ill play with it and post it for everyone to see.

Time to man up and yank it John!  :banghead:
Ray

bluegoose95401

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Re: header question
« Reply #2 on: May 22, 2012, 10:32:42 PM »
so even if theres no steam there still getting water?
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Horizonjet

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Re: header question
« Reply #3 on: May 22, 2012, 10:42:34 PM »
It is MHO that you can't tell crap on the hose.....Also FWIW, unless your running it at over 1500 RPM you should have the water turned down enough to see NO steam from the header pipes...

Also, they virtually NEVER flow dead even...Don't know why. :-\

They will flow little if any on the hose because low pressure. The hose should not presure system like the jet pump would.  Are you running a T valve with ball and spring? Are they OK?  I have seen where the spring breaks and I know it was really foggy up there this morning and the added humidity in the air will have a major effect on it also just like the exhaust on a car.  I was at the lake here in AZ over the weekend and mine did not steam/fog much at all but it was also 105 degrees and 5% humidity.  The real test will be in the water and thats where you will make your adjustments for the water valves
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GT Jets

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Re: header question
« Reply #4 on: May 22, 2012, 10:50:40 PM »
They will flow little if any on the hose because low pressure. The hose should not presure system like the jet pump would.  Are you running a T valve with ball and spring? Are they OK?  I have seen where the spring breaks and I know it was really foggy up there this morning and the added humidity in the air will have a major effect on it also just like the exhaust on a car.  I was at the lake here in AZ over the weekend and mine did not steam/fog much at all but it was also 105 degrees and 5% humidity.  The real test will be in the water and thats where you will make your adjustments for the water valves

All good suggestions...But be careful...My city water pressure is over 80PSI  :o I can literally blow the freeze plugs right out of the block... :P
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If i get some free time tonight at work, ill play with it and post it for everyone to see.

Time to man up and yank it John!  :banghead:
Ray

bluegoose95401

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Re: header question
« Reply #5 on: May 23, 2012, 02:48:20 AM »
They will flow little if any on the hose because low pressure. The hose should not presure system like the jet pump would.  Are you running a T valve with ball and spring? Are they OK?  I have seen where the spring breaks and I know it was really foggy up there this morning and the added humidity in the air will have a major effect on it also just like the exhaust on a car.  I was at the lake here in AZ over the weekend and mine did not steam/fog much at all but it was also 105 degrees and 5% humidity.  The real test will be in the water and thats where you will make your adjustments for the water valves
no im not running a t valve its just a regular T pipe like one would find in a house pluming is this ok or do i really need the basset t valve
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crewchief22

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Re: header question
« Reply #6 on: May 23, 2012, 06:37:11 AM »
You need a t-valve or at minimum a lever type ball valve so you can shut off flow to the headers at idle.  You don't want water entering the headers below 1800-2000 rpm.
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"Racing is life!  Anything that happens before or after, is just waiting"    Steve McQueen

The problem with America is stupidity. I'm not saying there should be a capital punishment for stupidity, but why don't we just take the safety labels off of everything and let the problem solve itself?

bluegoose95401

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Re: header question
« Reply #7 on: May 23, 2012, 01:26:54 PM »
You need a t-valve or at minimum a lever type ball valve so you can shut off flow to the headers at idle.  You don't want water entering the headers below 1800-2000 rpm.
...... ooopps lol well back to the drawing Bord thanks guys saved my ass on that one
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Horizonjet

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Re: header question
« Reply #8 on: May 23, 2012, 10:55:30 PM »
...... ooopps lol well back to the drawing Bord thanks guys saved my ass on that one

Yes! I forgot to mention dont crank up the house/hose water al the way either. 
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bluegoose95401

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Re: header question
« Reply #9 on: May 24, 2012, 03:20:17 PM »
Yes! I forgot to mention dont crank up the house/hose water al the way either.
thank you i turned the hose about half way. i m only running one gate valve at the pump the basset FAQ said that i should run a gate valve at the start and at the end of the cooling system to create a little bit of back pressure for the header T so tomorrow im going to in stall a second valve at the end of the dump line and a water pressure gauge in the intake manifold what psi should i be running in the cooling system
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bluegoose95401

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Re: header question
« Reply #10 on: May 24, 2012, 03:23:28 PM »

the new t valve set up much better than the old one
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bluegoose95401

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Re: header question
« Reply #11 on: May 24, 2012, 03:24:14 PM »
old one
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Horizonjet

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Re: header question
« Reply #12 on: May 24, 2012, 10:40:30 PM »
Nothing over 25psi on the water pressure.  The new T valve looks much better and make sure it has the spring and ball in it and works freely.  I try to take mine apart every so often and clean and spray with wd-40 on ball and spring.   :thumbup:
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bluegoose95401

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Re: header question
« Reply #13 on: May 25, 2012, 03:58:57 AM »
thanks any idea what psi the t opens at
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crewchief22

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Re: header question
« Reply #14 on: May 25, 2012, 06:08:28 AM »
When running two gate valves (I am), adjust the one at the pump to get the engine temperature to come up and then adjust the outlet valve to get your header fog to start around 1800/2000 rpm.

With the boat on the trailer and running, make sure you don't have any fog (water) going to the headers at idle then go run it and adjust as needed (you'll never get it right on the hose/trailer).
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"Racing is life!  Anything that happens before or after, is just waiting"    Steve McQueen

The problem with America is stupidity. I'm not saying there should be a capital punishment for stupidity, but why don't we just take the safety labels off of everything and let the problem solve itself?

farmergord

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Re: header question
« Reply #15 on: May 25, 2012, 07:26:45 AM »
Kieth what about thru transom headers do the same rules apply.
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76NORDIC

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Re: header question
« Reply #16 on: May 25, 2012, 07:36:27 AM »
Yes it does Gord
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The definition of insanity: Doing the same thing over and over again, and expecting different results.....Einstein

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farmergord

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Re: header question
« Reply #17 on: May 25, 2012, 07:40:22 AM »
how do you adjust for mist when your dumping all the water in the header???
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SLCKREG

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Re: header question
« Reply #18 on: May 25, 2012, 02:35:08 PM »
how do you adjust for mist when your dumping all the water in the header???

The only real difference between ot's and tt's....on the tt's...instead of your dump line going out the transom(or wherever)..the dump line t's...and half goes into each collector.
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farmergord

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Re: header question
« Reply #19 on: May 25, 2012, 09:11:36 PM »
I understand that but how do you adjust for fine mist when your dumping all the  water from the block into the exhaust  :screwy:
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Horizonjet

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Re: header question
« Reply #20 on: May 26, 2012, 12:19:45 AM »
When I was running tt's I just adj. the valve at the pump to get water temp. up and there is not another valve to mess with.  When going to ot's you  need another valve befor the water exits the transom to add some back pressure to get the water to flow thru the headers at desired RPM's
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farmergord

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Re: header question
« Reply #21 on: May 26, 2012, 08:19:02 AM »
thanks man I saw that in the diagram on the Bassett site I guess it's more simple than i'm trying to make it  :beer:
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Horizonjet

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Re: header question
« Reply #22 on: May 26, 2012, 10:40:09 AM »
Oh yea, and All this is with the boat in the water on trailer, not with hose at house.  after you get it set up you will say to yourself, geezzz that was simple and I was stressing for nothing. Thats how I was when I converted and I would never go back to the logs again.  ;D
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farmergord

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Re: header question
« Reply #23 on: May 26, 2012, 10:47:06 PM »
I hope it's worth it so far it/s been a giant pain in the ass.I've had to redrill the holes in the transom,cut the mounting rings off the tips and reweld them at a different angle,abandon my old battery mounts and come up with 2 new mounts and try to find flexible hose to hook it up cause its offset from my logs and I haven't even got to plumbing yet
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