Lakesonly is the guy you need to talk to. send him a pm.
http://www.highflowdynamics.com/

Thanks for the PMs Boost kinda relit the fire. Ive heard lakes only is the guys to talk to. Ill PM him

Just got off the phone with a friend who builds a hell of a street motor. He said 10.5:1 solid lifter cam the tunnel ram I already have and carb set up I already have. I dont know what to do. I want it done right but thats screwed me in the past.

Just got off the phone with a friend who builds a hell of a street motor. He said 10.5:1 solid lifter cam the tunnel ram I already have and carb set up I already have. I dont know what to do. I want it done right but thats screwed me in the past.

You got the right idea there bro, take your time and do it right, you will be thankful in the long run. Good luck! Show some pics when she's all done.

I just tore down my 460. Everything looks good, just stock. I had the crank checked and polished. Rods are all in good shape. Now for the rebuild. My thoughts for the bottom end. Summit has the flat top piston rebuild kit for $550. Bumps the compression to 9:1 or so. Is this a good option?

If you are speaking of the F-M kit with the hypereutectic pistons, then I will have to strongly suggest you steer clear of that kit for your jet boat applicaiton.

Next I need a good Cam, Manifold, Carb combo. The heads are stock D3VE-A2A. Theres no flow work done. Ive hurd to just leave them allown and run them.  It would be cool to get 500 horse out of it with more being a huge +++++. But $$$ is always an issue...

Sorry to say this but money should not be an issue if you want to build a good qualty reliable turn-key 500 hp engine.  One  you begin cuttng corners by ommitting necessary replacement parts, or using sub-par components, your long-term reliabile rebuild veers toward ticking time bomb.  Then, you end up spending much more money to rebuild it again....more than you would have spent had you done it right the first time.

If money is a problem and waiting patiently while you slowly collect good parts over an extended period of time is not an option either, then get a personal loan and pay the bank back over a period of time. Our economy will love you.

All that being said, it is possible to create a fine 500 hp build using the OEM iron block, heads, crankshaft and connecting rods, etc.  However, I feel that the engine combo suggestions posted above are not good information or good recommendations....not any of them...because in some cases the recommendatons are way out of line, in other cases the recomendations are incorrect for the desired goals, and lastly, some of the recommendations siimply will not even physically work wth the parts that you have.  Not to mention that more of your money money would need to be spent than what is needed.

Which brings us full-circle again: You need to be willing to shop a round and get an idea what a good rebuild is really going to cost you. If you MUST use a Summit engine rebuild kit, then use an F-M kit with the Forged L2404 dished pistons.  With one of those kits your compression ratio will jump from ~7.6:1 to ~9.5:1.....and you don't need any more c/r than that. (EDIT: L2404's and D3VE's creat 8.1-8.3:1 c/r - PK)

One more thing, head porting is an absolute must, on both the intake and the exhaust ports.  That is a lecture itself but one that we may go over later....too much typing over  here.

LO

Guys, I had quite a day today and realize I was was a little short my post above.  My attitude was affected.  Now that the day is winding down and my mind is clear, here's my answer that more directly addresses the initial question at hand.

desrtrat256, here's your dilemma in a nutshell:

For your marine application and seeking 500 hp, you really need to run forged pistons. The problem is that the Summit 460 kits with flat tops are not available with forged pistons.  Therefore, you would have to buy the kit without pistons and then purchase the forged flat top pistons seperately.

Next problem:  500 hp with flat tops and D3VE heads means that you not only need to port the factory D3VE heads, but you also need to run a cam that will get you to 500 hp, and the D3VE heads cannot casually handle a big enough camshaft to get you to 500 hp unless you modify the valve train by re-machining the heads for 7/16 screw-in roller rocker arm studs....a pricey way to go.

This leaves you two "budget" options.

1) Settle for 425-450 hp (450 if you use that 2x4 tunnel ram) while using flat top pistons and ported D3VE heads with oversize valves, etc, and the OEM-style D3VE valve train with as much cam as it can handle, all of which gets you around 450 hp max and about 9.4:1, or,

2) Switch to the Summit Kit with the L2404 22cc forged dish tops and switch to ported D0VE heads (they already are set up for screw-in stud roller rockers) which also puts you at about 9.4:1 but you can use a bigger cam (thanks to the roller rocker valve train) that easily attains your desired 500 hp.

Keep in mind that hp costs money and both builds require ported heads.  The difference is that for 500 hp you will need to purchase heads, roller rocker valve train, etc, while for 450 hp you can get away with the original-style valve train and a Master Kit plus pistons as a seperate expense rather than included in a Kit package deal.

So.....when the smoke clears, D0VE head castings and a roller rocker valve train cost an additional $900 +/-.  Is the extra 50 horsepower worth $900 to you?  Keep in mind that the $900 upgrade gives you room to grow big time hp-wise....so you should also be looking down the road, so to speak, but the rebuilt engine should last years and what you have for the next few years is what you will have.

LO

Thank you very much Paul. Its alot to think about. Ive got a long week down in mexico racing and this will be where my minds at the whole time. Hopefully ill have an answer when I return.