Hey Guys,

Just ran my boat at Parker for the first time last weekend.. Ran bitchen! 
However I am really concerned, and new to understanding my engine.

I have a 1996/95 Gen 5 block in my 19ft Dana.. The motor is completely stock and came out of a 1996 3500

peanut port heads, flat tappet cam, Jegs 3 window racing oil pan, HV oil pump, edlebrock performer intake, 750 carb and a piece of shit distributor with a vacuum advance. Mobile 1 10-30 Diesel oil (was told to do this from multiple people because of a higher level of Zinc?)

When i launched my boat and ran out of the no wake zone i was at 40psi of oil pressure.  Ran it for about 15 minutes and when i came back in to the no wake zone i was around 35psi. The second day i ran same thing. Day 3 it dropped to around 15-20 psi at idle and around 30 psi at 2500 rpm. Now, ive been hearing about 2 oil bypasses that need to be changed out? Can some one shed some light on this? Dont want to grenade anything and just really want a turnkey reliable boat... No plans on going 80+ mph..

Thanks for taking the time to read this..

Hey Guys,

Just ran my boat at Parker for the first time last weekend.. Ran bitchen! 
However I am really concerned, and new to understanding my engine.

I have a 1996/95 Gen 5 block in my 19ft Dana.. The motor is completely stock and came out of a 1996 3500

peanut port heads, flat tappet cam, Jegs 3 window racing oil pan, HV oil pump, edlebrock performer intake, 750 carb and a piece of shit distributor with a vacuum advance. Mobile 1 10-30 Diesel oil (was told to do this from multiple people because of a higher level of Zinc?)

When i launched my boat and ran out of the no wake zone i was at 40psi of oil pressure.  Ran it for about 15 minutes and when i came back in to the no wake zone i was around 35psi. The second day i ran same thing. Day 3 it dropped to around 15-20 psi at idle and around 30 psi at 2500 rpm. Now, ive been hearing about 2 oil bypasses that need to be changed out? Can some one shed some light on this? Dont want to grenade anything and just really want a turnkey reliable boat... No plans on going 80+ mph..

Thanks for taking the time to read this..

There are a couple of pieces of information missing.

How large of a pan and what oil temp?

Idle oi pressure don't really mean a whole lot. As long as you have 15 PSI or above, I don't sweat it....  That being said, fresh engine? take out form a truck at the bent bumper yard? There are some internal bypasses for an external oil cooler that need to be checked out, but I would ditch that oil, run a good filter and run a higher weight diesel oil, like a 15-40 Rotella or similar, it's dirt cheap and will work fine for your application.

I like straight weight oils for two reasons.... 1, you will not be running your boat in the dead of winter at freezing temperatures unless you live in Canada...., 2, there are a large amount of polymers put into oil to play around with the multi vis oils, this takes away (ever so slightly) the desirable lubrication properties of good oil.... A straight viscosity oil has non of these polymers...  But again, really difficult to find off the shelf.

It sounds to me like either the engine is a little tired, or the oil is getting silly hot, both of which are reasons to go to a higher viscosity oil..

Just my opinion without the advantage of taste, touch and smell....


GT

There are a couple of pieces of information missing.

How large of a pan and what oil temp?

Idle oi pressure don't really mean a whole lot. As long as you have 15 PSI or above, I don't sweat it....  That being said, fresh engine? take out form a truck at the bent bumper yard? There are some internal bypasses for an external oil cooler that need to be checked out, but I would ditch that oil, run a good filter and run a higher weight diesel oil, like a 15-40 Rotella or similar, it's dirt cheap and will work fine for your application.

I like straight weight oils for two reasons.... 1, you will not be running your boat in the dead of winter at freezing temperatures unless you live in Canada...., 2, there are a large amount of polymers put into oil to play around with the multi vis oils, this takes away (ever so slightly) the desirable lubrication properties of good oil.... A straight viscosity oil has non of these polymers...  But again, really difficult to find off the shelf.

It sounds to me like either the engine is a little tired, or the oil is getting silly hot, both of which are reasons to go to a higher viscosity oil..

Just my opinion without the advantage of taste, touch and smell....


GT

Hey GT

Thanks so much.. Im going to install a oil temp gauge and also i am running a 11 quart pan.. either way i appreciate the input. Im going to put in the oil you recommended and get a great filter.. The engine was pulled out the 3500 with 20,000 miles on it.. the reason the truck was scrapped was due to a fire in the cab of the truck..   

Where do you tap in for an oil temp gauge?

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Weld a bung and temp probe on your oil pan.


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Some really good info here, I'm currently dealing with an oil pressure issue myself. This helps me understand the Bbc oiling system a lot better.
Thanks


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For what it's worth, clay smith recommended I use permatex #1 between the pickup and pump and pump to block instead of a gasket. He said it lessens the chance of sucking air.


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Indeed... I use copper foil and Loctite 510.... Same same...

GT