no top end oil

« **on:** October 06, 2009, 02:22:05 AM »

Well I was so close to firing my motor up today ,its been sitting on a stand for 8 months ,the motor runs perfect but while it was out i put a high vol millings pump on it ,and 14 qt pan and pickup that was for that pan. today i went to pump some oil thru it before i started it (thru the dist hole) with the priming tool for my drill and i kept waiting to see the oil come up to the rockers after 3-4 minutes I came to the conclusion it wasn't coming. I was spinning the pump clockwise and when i installed the pump and pickup i tack welded the pickup in the pump and i thought i was leaving 3/8 clearance from bottom of pickup to bottom of pan.....now i'm thinking maybe the pickup is closer then 3/8 and I might have messed up my measurements and i might be to close to the pan with the pickup. What else could it be.its a new pump but i guess it could be bad. I need some suggestions what else to do or test .before i pull the motor and drop the pan . i have 5-30 synthetic oil in it. im spinning it pretty good with my 1/2 drill motor and i can see some oil splashing by the top of the oil pump shaft. I don't get it. i was so close. thanks for any of your ideas or thoughts
motorhome 6

« **Reply #1 on:** October 06, 2009, 06:24:20 AM »

You'll pump forever clockwise..... go counter clockwise and see what happens

« **Reply #2 on:** October 06, 2009, 08:47:24 AM »

The oil flow to the upper end is verylimited by comparison it takes an nenormous amount of thime to get it to the top with a "primer" Tom

« **Reply #3 on:** October 06, 2009, 09:55:41 AM »

Quote from: electrowoman on October 06, 2009, 06:24:20 AM

You'll pump forever clockwise..... go counter clockwise and see what happens

ford or chev?

« **Reply #4 on:** October 06, 2009, 10:33:18 AM »

If it is a Chevy, you need the priming tool that simulates having a distributor in place to contain the lifter oil passage if you expect to see oil up top. If you are simply using one of the shafts that chuck into the drill with nothing to complete that passage, it creates a tremendous "leak"back down the distributor hole.

Last time I checked, Chevy's do take a clockwise rotation viewed from the top.

« **Reply #5 on:** October 06, 2009, 11:24:37 AM »

Quote from: jet boat performance on October 06, 2009, 08:47:24 AM

The oil flow to the upper end is verylimited by comparison it takes an nenormous amount of thime to get it to the top with a "primer" Tom

Tom..I gotta humbly disagree with ya here

1. Chevy...Clockwise
2. Ford... Counterclockwise

Assuming you are using the correct priming tool....The top end will pump up in a matter of 2 or 3 minutes! Unless there is an assy problem.
What you need to do is rotate the engine over 90 degrees a couple of times so that all oil passages
in the cam tunnel will open and feed the top end

« **Reply #6 on:** October 06, 2009, 03:42:37 PM »

I should have said it is a BBC motor. The priming tool I made from a dist shaft ,I got from a dist ans welded an extension to it . I don't really know what a store bought one looks like but assumed it would look like mine. I will go and prime some more and rotate the motor to open any passages that might be blocked. thanks for everyones info I will let u know what happens and if you have any more ideas ,I'm open to them. . If my priming tool isn't made right to do the job please let me know ,also

thanks everyone
motorhome 6

« **Reply #7 on:** October 06, 2009, 03:46:27 PM »

Quote from: motorhome6 on October 06, 2009, 03:42:37 PM

I should have said it is a BBC motor. The priming tool I made from a dist shaft ,I got from a dist ans welded an extension to it . I don't really know what a store bought one looks like but assumed it would look like mine. I will go and prime some more and rotate the motor to open any passages that might be blocked. thanks for everyones info I will let u know what happens and if you have any more ideas ,I'm open to them. . If my priming tool isn't made right to do the job please let me know ,also

thanks everyone
motorhome 6

YOU NEED TO EITHER USE AN OLD DIST>> OR THE CORRECT PRIMING TOOL

« **Reply #8 on:** October 06, 2009, 05:43:12 PM »

You need the body of the old dizzy in there like E.D. says

The oil gets to the top of a BBC by way of the passages in the distributor hole and the body of the distributor blocks off the levels in the block...

Use the body of the dizzy you used to make the shaft (I assume you just ground the gears off of the gear). I welded a 3/8" drive deep socket to an old Delco distributor and just gutted the points plate and mechanical advance off of it...Works like a charm with a 1/2" drill. I have never, ever seen a BBC take more than 30-40 seconds to see oil at the top turning the pump at about 900RPM...Never...Did I say never?

GT

« **Reply #9 on:** October 06, 2009, 05:45:26 PM »

Quote from: GT Jets on October 06, 2009, 05:43:12 PM

You need the body of the old dizzy in there like E.D. says

The oil gets to the top of a BBC by way of the passages in the distributor hole and the body of the distributor blocks off the levels in the block...

Use the body of the dizzy you used to make the shaft (I assume you just ground the gears off of the gear). I welded a 3/8" drive deep socket to an old Delco distributor and just gutted the points plate and mechanical advance off of it...Works like a charm with a 1/2" drill. I have never, ever seen a BBC take more than 30-40 seconds to see oil at the top turning the pump at about 900RPM...Never...Did I say never?

GT

Forgot to mention, we cut "o"ring grooves in some of our distributors on the marathon motors to keep the oil from foaming when it gets real hot. Some aftermarket distributors fit like crap in the block off areas and have a lot of bypass causing aeration of the oil...It's a goofy Chevy thing...

GT

« **Reply #10 on:** October 06, 2009, 06:18:52 PM »

I dont usually post up with this tech stuff, but here's what I did.
Pulled the gear off, tapped some theads and ran a allen bolt in the shaft. 1/2" drill and an allen drive, works great.

« **Reply #11 on:** October 06, 2009, 06:41:58 PM »

Quote from: GT Jets on October 06, 2009, 05:43:12 PM

You need the body of the old dizzy in there like E.D. says

The oil gets to the top of a BBC by way of the passages in the distributor hole and the body of the distributor blocks off the levels in the block...

Use the body of the dizzy you used to make the shaft (I assume you just ground the gears off of the gear). I welded a 3/8" drive deep socket to an old Delco distributor and just gutted the points plate and mechanical advance off of it...Works like a charm with a 1/2" drill. I have never, ever seen a BBC take more than 30-40 seconds to see oil at the top turning the pump at about 900RPM...Never...Did I say never?

GT

I agree!

« **Reply #12 on:** October 06, 2009, 07:43:22 PM »

ok here's the update on my situation , obnoxious001 I believe was the first to see the problem and thanks to 76 bonneville ,the engine doctor and G T Jets for confirming it, thanks Tom and everyone else for their input,cause you never know, it could have been several diff things. I took my make shift primer tool and turned the pump and took my flashlight and looked down there at the same time and saw the pump was pumping great .it was coming up the shaft and going into the lifter valley. then it made sense, how can it pressure up if its just running into the valley. now i will make the correct priming tool or buy one. You guys saved me from taking my motor back out ,draining 14 qts of oil pulling the pan , well you know ,you saved me alot wasted time and headaches. thanks again guys ,and i say again the people on this site know there shit thanks for sharing it with me and pulling me thru this........motorhome 6 soon as i can figure out the picture posting blues,i'll do some of mine

« **Reply #13 on:** October 06, 2009, 09:48:41 PM »

Hmm, I have been meaning to build an extra one out of a distributor so I could clamp it down to the intake and have my hands free to turn the engine over if I wanted to.

« **Reply #14 on:** October 06, 2009, 09:59:07 PM »

Quote from: obnoxious001 on October 06, 2009, 09:48:41 PM

Hmm, I have been meaning to build an extra one out of a distributor so I could clamp it down to the intake and have my hands free to turn the engine over if I wanted to.

Barry, I figure all I have to do is back out the allen bolt. Throw the rotor and the gear back on, and its a dist. again.

« **Reply #15 on:** October 07, 2009, 01:27:00 PM »

I have a box of points type distributors that probably will never be used, just never been that important of an issue to take the time to make one up.

« **Reply #16 on:** October 07, 2009, 04:04:49 PM »

Oppps. I was talking Ford. I didn't think chevys were worth priming

Glad ya got it figured out

« **Reply #17 on:** October 07, 2009, 06:39:17 PM »

Quote from: electrowoman on October 07, 2009, 04:04:49 PM

Oppps. I was talking Ford. I didn't think chevys were worth priming
Glad ya got it figured out

Can't even turn a Ford over without priming.....

GT

« **Reply #18 on:** October 07, 2009, 07:03:24 PM »

Anyone trying to fire any engine without priming is

« **Reply #19 on:** October 08, 2009, 06:35:26 PM »

That's for sure

« **Reply #20 on:** October 08, 2009, 09:52:17 PM »

thanks electrowoman , I should have said it was a BBC in my first post

anyway got the right priming tool with bushing ( like dizzy) to seal off the oil and WA-LA here comes the oil to the rockers.

Thanks Again for everyone's help motorhome 6
MUCH Appreciated

motorhome6

electrowoman

jet boat performance

HDriderTH

obnoxious001

enginedoctor

motorhome6

enginedoctor

GT Jets

GT Jets

76 Bonneville

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motorhome6

obnoxious001

76 Bonneville

obnoxious001

electrowoman

GT Jets

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