i would like to know how install oil pressure gauge (no mechanical). ground-power-send wire hook up

Super simple 1smknjoe, there are normally four connections for an electrical guage and is common for all of the gauges using a sender. There can be three if there is no light on the gauge.

First there is the "I" terminal, this goes to the ignition switch ignition terminal on the ign. switch or from a "daisy chained" circiut from the switch, also called "I" and typically a purple wire, this powers the gauge(12V+), Second there has to be a ground, also called "G" on the gauge, typically black and needs to be grounded on the same wire or wires as the engine block (also 12V-). the third is the "S" terminal, this goes to the sending unit on the engine block, (sometimes a blue wire) and the sender has to be grounded through the threads of the fitting (don't use a ton of sealer on the threads and you should be fine).

the last wire for the light is just 12V+ from a light switch, or you could just hook it to the "I" terminal, the light will be on any time the key is on, doesn't really matter..

The gauge works as an ohmmeter, as the resistance deacreases to ground the needle moves one direction, as the resistance increases the needle moves opposite...To check the guage simply power it up and ground and unground the sender lead the needle should move to and fro    

Hope this helps! Good luck!.

GT  

1smoknjoe, sounds like you may have either a bad sensor, or a wiring problem, with the key on and the engine off, obviously there should be no oil pressure to read.

I would recommend disconnecting the sender wire from the sender and powering the guage back up, then short the sender wire to ground and see if it sweeps to "past max", the sender has to be matched to the guage, they sort of look like a small can with a rounded top with the wire terminal on the very top...its a bellows type sender that moves inside against a reed type carbon pile.

Got a pick of what you have? Did the sender come with the guage? It's ok to mix and match, but the sender has to be the right range as far as resistance value (Ohms). Stewart Warner I would have to say is the most common of years past, but a lot of the auto parts stores now carry less superior guages which have odd senders and won't work with the older stuff.

By "Grounding the sender" I simply meant the sending units metallic body must be grounded through the threads to work, some people before have used say Permatex #2 on the threads and they won't conduct enough to work right, a little teflon tape and anti sieze are all I use on mine, they don't leak and they work, although sometimes the oil leaches out of the anti sieze and looks like a leak, just clean it off a few times and they're fine.

GT

GT

Gt sorry i meant the moment i hit the ign. everything still connected the way u said, the needle does sweep pass max (not read 80)

Jose, if you mean the moment the starter engages and it's only for a second, that's normal, basically due to the huge voltage drop from the starter, if the key is "on" and the engine not running, the gauge should read "0" psi... Hope that clears it up.

gt the key is "on" and the engine not running the gauges reads the max.

What happens when you pull off the "S" wire? Goes to "0"? What kind (make) of gauge we working with here?

BTW if it wasn't frustrating it wouldn't be "FUN"   

GT

the moment i take the s wire off with key on the needle reads "o" and when its hooked up it sweeps past max.

Either wrong (incorrect) sender, or a bad sender, could be a shorted sender wire too, did you disconnect the wire from the guage or the sender?  If the guage, try it again from the sender... What does the sender look like, does it have a spade terminal or a stud?, It could be the sender is for a light, when there is no pressure they "make" turning on a dash light.. (we won't go there, but called an idiot light).

GT

the sender is new an from auto zone.sender has a spade terminal. i disconnected it from both ends. i also appreciate the help
 

Now we're getting somewhere!  Did you buy the sender with the guage, because it sounds to me like they gave you a sender for a light, the spade terminal normally (not always) is for a light, the one you want will probably have a stud, it needs to be the right one for your guage though, sometimes the gauge will have a resistance printed on the gauge around the outside , not always. If you have a normal marine type gauge i.e.; Stewart Warner, Faria, Medallion, Quicksilver, VDO, Sun, among others, it will typically use an SW (Stewart Warner) type sender, they seem to be the most common...Some auto parts stores will be able to get them, but most don't stock em...Get the info off your guage and give Tom at JBP a call, he probably has one on the shelf and can have it to you pronto...

No problem at all on the help BTW, glad to be able to help.....

GT

Sounds to me you have the one for a light that cuts in at like 5#, they look the same but the electrical hook up is different (sometimes it's the only way to tell). Do you have the part # from the reciept? (my dad owned and operated a parts store for 30 years)..."he has an ultimate set of parts books"  LOL...

GT

just finish lookin at summitracing and my sender doesnt look no where near the ones in the catalog. i will have to go n buy that sending unit thanks for the help GT JET.

Anytime bro!

Good luck!           Damn, back to the garage clean-up

GT