SoCal Jet Boats
Tech Talk => Engine Mechanical / Electrical => Topic started by: msanchez414 on June 29, 2014, 07:35:39 PM
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So ive been having this problem with my boat. It wont go above 3000rpm at 3000 the motor shuts off like it is out of gas. So i took it to a shop and they rebuilt the carb put a new fuel pump on new electronic distributor, coil, plugs (they have a warranty on there work but are unhelpful with trying to fix the same problem i took it in for without me paying even more money). I put a new fuel filter in and it has clean gas. Also, the motor doesnt seem to be overheating as it will do this warm or cold. Anythig anyone can think of would be helpful thank you
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Sorry motor is an indamar 454 with berkley jet. And has a holley 650 vac sec
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Wear ring in pump worn out? Others with more experience will hopefully chim in but if your wear ring is shot the impeller can thrust forward causing a excessive load on the crank in a forward motion. I know 1 guy and heard story's of others that this has happened to. Does it react the same on a trailer start up? Or just in the water?
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Vac secondaries aren't opening??????
-beerjet-
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Wear ring in pump worn out? Others with more experience will hopefully chim in but if your wear ring is shot the impeller can thrust forward causing a excessive load on the crank in a forward motion. I know 1 guy and heard story's of others that this has happened to. Does it react the same on a trailer start up? Or just in the water?
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But the strange thing is i can run it from the launch ramp at elsinore all the way to the cove no problem but as soon as i stop for a little my problem starts.
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But the strange thing is i can run it from the launch ramp at elsinore all the way to the cove no problem but as soon as i stop for a little my problem starts.
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Ok that probably rules out the pump.
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Take the coast guard approved check valve elbows out of the fuel tanks and try that.
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Take the coast guard approved check valve elbows out of the fuel tanks and try that.
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That or you may have an Eletrical\ignition issue?????
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That or you may have an Eletrical\ignition issue?????
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Would that cause it to stall?
-beerjet-
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How is your fuel pressure? Can you verify if the carb has fuel in it just after the engine stalls by looking at the accelerator pump shot? Do not crank the engine or actuate the throttle until you can look down the carb.
What electronic distributor? Were any of the original ignition parts reused? Try duplicating the problem wow you have a timing light installed. Watch the timing light to see if it stops flashing just before the engine stalls.
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Would that cause it to stall?
-beerjet-
Low voltage to the coil/ ignition. I had it happen to my sw 18 changed everything. Ended up being that
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How is your fuel pressure? Can you verify if the carb has fuel in it just after the engine stalls by looking at the accelerator pump shot? Do not crank the engine or actuate the throttle until you can look down the carb.
What electronic distributor? Were any of the original ignition parts reused? Try duplicating the problem wow you have a timing light installed. Watch the timing light to see if it stops flashing just before the engine stalls.
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Fuel pressure is about 6.5. And there is fuel in the accelerator pumps. Also i have been unable to duplicate the problem on a trailer. There are no og ignition parts. Ive replace the key, coil, plugs, distributor.
That or you may have an Eletrical\ignition issue?????
But the motor doesnt just stop it feels like its running outa gas and if i play with the throttle when it starts to cut out sometimes it keeps running.
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Does it fire right up after?
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Check the roll pin in your distributor drive gear
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Does it fire right up after?
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Yes sir.
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Sounds like everyone is on the right track. Check all previously stated to rule out/troubleshoot.
Wear ring worn out feels like tranny slip in ur truck
The ignition has been touched so could be issue but sounds like fuel is getting weak flow. How old are ur tanks are they clean free off debris. The checks are usually the suspect and should be removed from pick up tubes as someone mentioned.
I had fiberglass tanks found out the hard way about replacing the entire fuel system. I would have clean carb run great a whole weekend next time out clog or restrict carb. Fixed it I had got new tanks larger lines (no checks) larger pick ups.
Fuel and fire your fire sounds new
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What ignition are you
Using?
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Sounds like everyone is on the right track. Check all previously stated to rule out/troubleshoot.
Wear ring worn out feels like tranny slip in ur truck
The ignition has been touched so could be issue but sounds like fuel is getting weak flow. How old are ur tanks are they clean free off debris. The checks are usually the suspect and should be removed from pick up tubes as someone mentioned.
I had fiberglass tanks found out the hard way about replacing the entire fuel system. I would have clean carb run great a whole weekend next time out clog or restrict carb. Fixed it I had got new tanks larger lines (no checks) larger pick ups.
Fuel and fire your fire sounds new
The tanks are original but are alum. Also before I started to rebuild the boat i cleaned and flushed both tanks. As for the checks how do i remove them they look to be welded into the tank. thanks four all the help.
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What ignition are you
Using?
i have a mallory distributor with electronic conversion and a high vibration coil.
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Low voltage to the coil/ ignition. I had it happen to my sw 18 changed everything. Ended up being that
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Is there a way to check the voltage while running the boat? Also, if it was electrical wouldn't the boat die instantly and not feel like is running out of gas?
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Here is a pic i will get more detailed pics later
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Take the coast guard approved check valve elbows out of the fuel tanks and try that.
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how do i do that. the seem to be welded in if i remember correctly
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I would look at the coil sound like it might be problem
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My friend just got over this same problem this past weekend!! He pulled and checked carb, all good. He then contacted Mallory and they said change out the coil, he did that, same problem!
It ended up being the wiring to the distributor and coil having bad ends that he couldn't see through the heat shrink tubing. All his time and frustration over a couple $0.10 wiring connectors!
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I would look at the coil sound like it might be problem
thats what i thought but the coil has been replace 3 times now
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My friend just got over this same problem this past weekend!! He pulled and checked carb, all good. He then contacted Mallory and they said change out the coil, he did that, same problem!
It ended up being the wiring to the distributor and coil having bad ends that he couldn't see through the heat shrink tubing. All his time and frustration over a couple $0.10 wiring connectors!
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thanks i will give that a shot tonight
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Mechanical or electric fuel pump? And if electric what GPH?
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Loose connector on my ballast cased a year plus long issue on my 56...It would run perfect then sputter from time to time an even wouldn't start right after a cruise. If you can crimp,screw or bolt on connectors... that seems to be a better connection on any wiring. I have Deoxit D5 now an seems to work well in dizzy an all connections.
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So i just talked with greg at gs marine and he told me to check the fittings on the tanks, make sure my alternator is good. So i will be doing that tonight aswell as making sure all conections are good.
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So i just talked with greg at gs marine and he told me to check the fittings on the tanks, make sure my alternator is good. So i will be doing that tonight aswell as making sure all conections are good.
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i have some crumpets at my house and some connectors if you need anything bud
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Crimpers damn phone
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i have some crumpets at my house and some connectors if you need anything bud
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Thanks man. I should be goo but i will let you know.
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i have some crumpets at my house and some connectors if you need anything bud
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I've got nothing to offer, as everyone has touched on anything I would try myself, but I just thought it was funny that Carrera202 was offering you some tea and CRUMPETS to help work on your boat!! Ha ha
Good luck in your diagnosis, Ken
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My brother was having the same problem for 2 years in a row. He had the carburetor rebuilt new fuel pump put in and still was doing the same thing. We finally discovered it was a bad starter. The solenoid was loose and moving around inside the starter.
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I've got nothing to offer, as everyone has touched on anything I would try myself, but I just thought it was funny that Carrera202 was offering you some tea and CRUMPETS to help work on your boat!! Ha ha
Good luck in your diagnosis, Ken
lol damn phone spell checked me with the wrong word
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I read through all the posts, many great suggestions givin, but just as it usually ends up, it's just something stupid...LOL..I am super anal about wiring and especially when it comes to a marine application. Funny as I was reading through the posts, I was already thinking of something electrical feeding the ign. system, and ther it was. But I'm glad to hear that you found the problem, now go out and enjoy your boat!
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So my cousin has this theory that my ignition is wired to a sensor on the back of the block for oil pressure. he is thinking that around 3000 rpms its either losing oil pressure (oil pressure gauge doesnt drop before it dies but I could be having a false reading) and killing the power to the coil or the sensor is bad. what do you guys think?
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Low voltage to the coil/ ignition. I had it happen to my sw 18 changed everything. Ended up being that
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So the boat seems to finally be working right >:D. i ended up replacing the plug wires and redoing some connections and the problem seems to have gone away but only time will tell. Thank you all for the tips and advise.