Personally, I had good success with the Comp 306S10 Solid deal, but it needs on/over the edge compression (11:1 or so), ported heads and 1 HUGE or 2 LARGE carbs to let it work. It's idle is really not so cool in most NWZ's and I found myself feathering the throttle and the reverse bucket simultaneously to keep LEO off my back. On the open water? Nothing better for a non-stroker 460.
But that is pretty damn wild for what you have. Lobesone and I were just talking the other day about a new cam I sold him. A Crane 354551 which is essentially a more advanced 109* lobe center version of Comps 292H Magnum cam with a touch more duration at .050" than that. With the far from stock hardware in his engine, and yes, increasing maintenance, I suggested running the cam with solid lifters and stout springs. In and of itself, much hotter grind than Gords dealio which is a damn good cam as well. The solid lifters will act to tame it in a bit and put it's final/actual specs smack in between what would be any manufacturers best RV/4x4/marine cam and entry level top end race cam.
Still going to have that nasty idle, probably won't "rump" as much, but by adding the .012" hot lash clearances vs. zero lash, it'll effectively take 4-5* of duration from the cam with no effect whatsoever on overall actual valve lift, timing and aggression. The cam don't know what lifter it's pushing, and you need good springs/rockers/pushrods to pull this off....and screw in studs.....but why not guys?
In your situation, Gords suggestion is probably best to be safe and be under a net. Me? I'd likely try a step or to above in grinds/lifters and see what happens. But that's just me. I shoulda bought a dyno and not a $35k injection mold press..............
Ray
