Who runs ones and why? I cheated and order the bbc engine wiring harness from hardin. The engine harness is wired up for a relay ( seloniod )  . I've talk to a few of my elders and they said it is not needed on a bbc maybe a ford but not a chevy.  Any insight fro. The professionals is much appreciated  in advance

What you are talking (I assume) is a slave solenoid. Using a Ford style puck relay. Correct?

The reasons are actuality two fold.

First and foremost, it provides battery voltage to the starter mounted solenoid on the GM starter,  if you think about it,  the power for the dash cones from the battery, which in 90% os the time is at the transom of the boat. So let's say, battery,  to terminal,  to terminal block,  to dash at ignition switch,  now downgrade the wire a few sizes and go from the starter, to the terminal block,  to the starter that has to pull the Bendix into type flywheel and pull in the contacts to spin the starter motor.

That's over 30' of wire and about 6 terminals. The voltage drop is crazy.

When you run the slave solenoid, all that wire has to do is pull in the easier solenoid, very low current draw.  This puts virtually full battery voltage to the GM solenoid, as a plus, if you use the "I" terminal on that solenoid to bump the coil voltage, everything gets a little boost.

I have tested it and have seen voltage drops to the starter to be as much as 6 volts. Meaning your trying to pull in the starter Bendix on half the rated voltage. This is twice the normal current.

This solenoid install will really reduce starter failures.

GT

X2 for gt as well...

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What you are talking (I assume) is a slave solenoid. Using a Ford style puck relay. Correct?

The reasons are actuality two fold.

First and foremost, it provides battery voltage to the starter mounted solenoid on the GM starter,  if you think about it,  the power for the dash cones from the battery, which in 90% os the time is at the transom of the boat. So let's say, battery,  to terminal,  to terminal block,  to dash at ignition switch,  now downgrade the wire a few sizes and go from the starter, to the terminal block,  to the starter that has to pull the Bendix into type flywheel and pull in the contacts to spin the starter motor.

That's over 30' of wire and about 6 terminals. The voltage drop is crazy.

When you run the slave solenoid, all that wire has to do is pull in the easier solenoid, very low current draw.  This puts virtually full battery voltage to the GM solenoid, as a plus, if you use the "I" terminal on that solenoid to bump the coil voltage, everything gets a little boost.

I have tested it and have seen voltage drops to the starter to be as much as 6 volts. Meaning your trying to pull in the starter Bendix on half the rated voltage. This is twice the normal current.

This solenoid install will really reduce starter failures.

GT

So one like this shoukd work

Ill wait to say yes till the master chimes in..but ya thats what they look like!! Lol

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Thanks guys appreciate it

So with the remote solenoid you are eliminating the fact that the starter mounted solenoid no longer uses power from the dash to push the bendix. It now uses power direct from the battery thriugh the remote solenoid to push the bendix. Is this correct? Because now it makes sense. The remote solenoid does less work. The starter mounted solenoid works easier due to less resistance of all that wiring. Nearly direct from battery. I'm sold. (sorry, just thinking out loud).

So with the remote solenoid you are eliminating the fact that the starter mounted solenoid no longer uses power from the dash to push the bendix. It now uses power direct from the battery thriugh the remote solenoid to push the bendix. Is this correct? Because now it makes sense. The remote solenoid does less work. The starter mounted solenoid works easier due to less resistance of all that wiring. Nearly direct from battery. I'm sold. (sorry, just thinking out loud).

Uh huh.

Well when you say it that way, it makes perfect sense. Lol

GT