fellas correct me if im wrong ur intake should work with ur motor build putting some drag intake doesnt mean it will help u i use a performer torker intake that has a split in the middle cuz i was told it would help my stock engine cuz jets boats need to be torquey 
a drag intake thatsmade for sucking more air and fuel might make ur motor under perform just my 2 cents
Pretty much correct. Sounds like you're running a Performer RPM, which is a good intake for this. The Weiand Stealth is also an excellent choice in dual plane, stock cam low compression engines. It's really HARD to beat the stock cast-iron marine/Cobra-Jet intake on the 460 in a boat!
As we nuts always do, we can't leave well enough alone and start boring and stroking for cubes, bumping up compression and running wild bumpsticks. This is where the single planes and tunnel rams come into play. If your engine is not setup to take advantage of the tunnel (At least 10.5:1 compression and I'd say a .610 lift cam) You're going to be chasing your tail getting it tuned and it's gonna run like crap, IMO.
Ralph and Lakesonly will chime in, knowing more about the 460 that I ever will, but torque is what gets these things going. More torque, gets going quicker. Where these big cube/high-compression (or blown)/big cam engines thrive is there's more than enough torque available to get them going down low where the jet really isn't even loaded yet, but they have the High RPM Horsepower to KEEP spinning that jet no matter how much you load it. All things change on RPM range depending on how the engine is built and what impeller you toss in there. It has to be a thought out system.
On your question on the T-stat housing, typically, aftermarket 429-460 manifolds have a 3/8" NPT threaded outlet and a pressed in piece of pipe out the front under where the T-stat would normally go. I use a pipe wrench and/or big Vice-grips and knock the pipe out and tap it also 3/8" (drilling not necessary
). There's your water outlets for the O/B dump and headers, or 1 for each snail if that's your fancy. Only thing I've seen work on the Weiand Tunnel is a simply flat piece of 1/2" or 3/8" aluminum (Block-off plate, if you will) then drilled and tapped in the center for the temp sender. There's a lot of different ones out there with u to 4 water outlets, but they won't fit on the Weiand Tunnel.
Ray
