Hey guys I just got done polishing my headers and I put 4gs into my engine this year. Haven't had it out yet, but I'm debating whether to run my headers wet or dry...I want to run them wet cause its safer and theres not as much heat in the engine bay but I'm having a hard time justifying doing it know that I might suck some water in and blow a valve or worse. Does anyone have a good system set up for wet headers? I have the lines and the bassett t-valve with spring and ball but I still dont think that shuts the water pressure off fast enough from when you take your foot off the gas to when the ball in the valve cuts off the flow. It seems like there no way of getting rid of that lag..does anyone have a solution for this? Thanks!


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Hey guys I just got done polishing my headers and I put 4gs into my engine this year. Haven't had it out yet, but I'm debating whether to run my headers wet or dry...I want to run them wet cause its safer and theres not as much heat in the engine bay but I'm having a hard time justifying doing it know that I might suck some water in and blow a valve or worse. Does anyone have a good system set up for wet headers? I have the lines and the bassett t-valve with spring and ball but I still dont think that shuts the water pressure off fast enough from when you take your foot off the gas to when the ball in the valve cuts off the flow. It seems like there no way of getting rid of that lag..does anyone have a solution for this? Thanks!


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Solution. Run em dry.
Depending on the lift and duration of your cam, that will tell you if you can run em wet or not. I was told anything over 550 lift was a no no for wet headers.


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I wouldn’t say that water-injected headers are safer, just less likely to burn the chrome off.  You are correct about the Bassett valve not shutting off the water right away.  Pressure will remain in the lines, injecting water into the headers until the pressure equalizes.  I think it is best to have redundant safeties in place.  Install a ball valve between the pump and the Bassett valve where it can easily be controlled from the driver seat.

Driver technique also plays a role.  You don’t really want to just cut the throttle in a jet boat.  The more that you load your pump, the more hairball the shutdown becomes.  Instead, kill the water to the headers and then roll out of the throttle.

It is also a good idea to install a mechanical fuel injection pill (jet) in the water to the headers so that you can fine-tune the amount of water being injected.  The fittings installed into the primary tubes should have no larger than a .028” opening.

Good luck,

Joe

Thanks for the info guys! Joe, I really like the idea of the mechanical solenoid. I think I'll be going that route. I have 3 nice bassett burns on the inside of my arms from working on my engine last summer


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Dry- ridiculously hot, (on a plastic boat?) loud (180 miles on the river on a Saturday, water inj., no baffles) and illegal (USCG 182.425) requires water cooling.
 
I wouldn't do it, but thats just me.

Dan'l

Question, I was out figuring out my new boat with wet Bassets this weekend.  It has a valve to adjust the amount of flow or run dry.  When running wet I shut down and turn off the motor and water runs out of the headers near the block.  It's not coming swim the fittings where the water lines go into the pipes.  I can't tell exactly where it's coming from?


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Its from the weep holes between the header flange and the water injection. A few drips is normal, pouring out is not. Let the motor run 5-10 sec after you turn the water valve off.
Drivers seat mounted valve?

Dan'l

Valve is on the motor but I can reach it from the seat.  Thabks for the info.


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