Too much water getting into my motor

« **on:** March 26, 2015, 01:45:04 PM »

Any suggestions please....

Just had my motor completely rebuilt due to water being in the oil. Now that it is all back together and going through the break in process I am still gett way too much water coming out of my headers. I have a BBC 468 with water injected Bassett headers. I bought and swapped out the Bassett T-valve and seems to not be doing the trick... is there something I am missing? My next move is to put in a shut off valve before the T-valve so I dont have to replace my motor again due to way too much water.

Thanks in advance

« **Reply #1 on:** March 26, 2015, 01:50:25 PM »

You should not have any water under 1500 rpm. Where is you water inlet set? When I ran water I had a t valve and a manual valve.

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« **Reply #2 on:** March 26, 2015, 04:09:12 PM »

Do you have a pressure regulator at the pump to control water pressure going to the motor?

« **Reply #3 on:** March 26, 2015, 04:33:41 PM »

Maybe snap a few pics of your setup so we can get a better idea of what you're working with.

« **Reply #4 on:** March 26, 2015, 06:46:40 PM »

TBAG; If you are plumbed like the Bassett diagram asks for then you probably have a restriction in your dump line. You should have a least a 1/2" inside diameter on all fittings, gate valve and thru hull. Not all fittings are equal, many times I have had to swap fittings and thru hulls or drill them out. You can never have enough capacity on the dump line, your gate valve should be able to adjust right amount of water to hdrs. Hope this helps.

« **Reply #5 on:** March 26, 2015, 07:34:34 PM »

I need to know a few things.

Is there a balance valve?

What size is the dump line fitting?

Are you running a thermostat?

At what point do your headers start to mist?

What camshaft are you running?

Do your header primary tubes have weep holes?

What headers?

What temperatures do you see while you're running.

GT

« **Reply #6 on:** March 26, 2015, 08:07:25 PM »

I run two gate valves one coming out of the pump and one before the Basset T. plus a bypass valve. Never had a problem

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« **Reply #7 on:** March 26, 2015, 08:11:03 PM »

Uh oh... I feel a gate valve debate coming on... Lol

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« **Reply #8 on:** March 26, 2015, 08:42:39 PM »

Quote from: JBASHAM on March 26, 2015, 08:11:03 PM

Uh oh... I feel a gate valve debate coming on... Lol

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Almost as bad as Ford vs Chevy.

TBAG- are you getting any more water in the oil? Or is it just too much at the headers?
Just to make sure, does the new T-valve have the ball and spring? Did you buy it new or used?

« **Reply #9 on:** March 26, 2015, 09:08:34 PM »

http://www.jetboatperformance.net/Jet-Boat-Inlet-Pressure-Bypass-kit-jbpprbp.htm This might make your life easy.

« **Reply #10 on:** March 26, 2015, 09:43:14 PM »

Sounds like tbag needs to answer gts questions so we can figure this out...

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« **Reply #11 on:** March 26, 2015, 10:30:10 PM »

We had nothing but problems with the Bassett tee. So we went too 12v electric gate valve with a control valve and a pressure switch hook the the pedal that you can control whatever rpm u want them to open. They make kits but u can buy better parts for cheaper if u buy the pieces separately. Ps don't buy the plastic gate valve they break! Spend the couple extra bucks to get the brass

« **Reply #12 on:** March 26, 2015, 10:35:02 PM »

Quote from: 19Haskell82 on March 26, 2015, 10:30:10 PM

We had nothing but problems with the Bassett tee. So we went too 12v electric gate valve with a control valve and a pressure switch hook the the pedal that you can control whatever rpm u want them to open. They make kits but u can buy better parts for cheaper if u buy the pieces separately. Ps don't buy the plastic gate valve they break! Spend the couple extra bucks to get the brass

That would be a solenoid valve (not a gate).

GT

« **Reply #13 on:** March 26, 2015, 10:35:09 PM »

Pedal

« **Reply #14 on:** March 26, 2015, 10:39:14 PM »

Your are correct gt it is. I Did not realize that I didn't say that.

« **Reply #15 on:** March 27, 2015, 02:32:25 PM »

Quote from: TrollerDave on March 26, 2015, 08:42:39 PM

Almost as bad as Ford vs Chevy.

TBAG- are you getting any more water in the oil? Or is it just too much at the headers?
Just to make sure, does the new T-valve have the ball and spring? Did you buy it new or used?

Brand new t valve and just too much water at the headers. New to boats still and wil check my lines tonight. Don't think there is a gate valve in my system at all. Will post pics tonight

'96 Carrera Eclipse "Boobie Bouncer"

« **Reply #16 on:** March 27, 2015, 03:26:49 PM »

I think you know where I stand on this.

I hope you find a solution quickly.

Good question here was is there water in oil or too much from headers?

If its in your oil or high block pressure theres a few ways

A gate valve is cheap just make sure your outlet is huge GT can explain how to set it

I have chosen to restrict the pressure (but not water flow thats two variables) before it enters my block by using a Regulator set @12 psi. The excess pressure and some water goes out of a dump line the 12psi pressure and water flow through the block.

Its an option it worked for me just a suggestion hope you get it solved

« **Reply #17 on:** March 27, 2015, 04:35:24 PM »

Quote from: TBAG111 on March 27, 2015, 02:32:25 PM

Brand new t valve and just too much water at the headers. New to boats still and wil check my lines tonight. Don't think there is a gate valve in my system at all. Will post pics tonight

'96 Carrera Eclipse "Boobie Bouncer"

Have you ran the boat in water or just on the trailer with the hose? If on the water, how was the motor temp?
Either way, was there water coming out of the dump line? like canuck said, maybe a dump line restriction(valve closed, debris in line, line too small) ?
If everything is good, you may just need a bypass system or a control valve to the headers like what's been mentioned.
Every boat runs different even though they're basically the same.

If you answer GT's questions, he'll probably be able to tell you what, where the problem is, how to fix it, where to get the best price on the parts… etc. He's like a mechanical encyclopedia.

« **Reply #18 on:** March 27, 2015, 07:46:07 PM »

Just bought a 18' Hallett 460 with a Berkeley pump and there is no valve from the pump to engine inlet. Is the valve at the pump a must? Not trying to thread jack...I think it's relative to the thread. Thnx

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« **Reply #19 on:** March 27, 2015, 07:52:34 PM »

Do you have over transom headers? I didnt look at your pic yet?

I thing alot of logs dont have em.

You sure theres no valve at all? Check water line off the pump u want one so you can use it as a shutoff valve if anything

« **Reply #20 on:** March 27, 2015, 11:29:18 PM »

Quote from: ghett0man on March 27, 2015, 07:46:07 PM

Just bought a 18' Hallett 460 with a Berkeley pump and there is no valve from the pump to engine inlet. Is the valve at the pump a must? Not trying to thread jack...I think it's relative to the thread. Thnx

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gate valve between pump and motor gives you the ability to shut the water off should that hose burst. otherwise....water pours into boat with little option to control it. so, while not "required", its a BIG safety feature. you should be able to make it to shore with no water going to engine(even if it overheats)....but not if your boat sinks....

« **Reply #21 on:** March 27, 2015, 11:34:06 PM »

Over transom headers...just curios about my set up. I understand the safety feature. I saw the valve on the Berkeley videos so I figured it was useful. Just wanted to see what the general impression is. Thnx.

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« **Reply #22 on:** March 27, 2015, 11:41:29 PM »

Some people use that valve to regulate engine cooling.
And should anything happen....can be used to shut off water from pump. Others have setups where gate is wide open and cooling is regulated by other configurations. I'd say safety first....and just so happens can be used to regulate cooling (some may not prefer that method of cooling...fyi )

« **Reply #23 on:** March 28, 2015, 12:07:25 AM »

I went to power wash down pump to cool down motor and manifolds. 4.0 west marine pump. Works great, no ore too much pressure, no more reversion with over transom pipes.

« **Reply #24 on:** March 28, 2015, 12:18:20 AM »

Quote from: SS-201 on March 28, 2015, 12:07:25 AM

I went to power wash down pump to cool down motor and manifolds. 4.0 west marine pump. Works great, no ore too much pressure, no more reversion with over transom pipes.

huh?

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