Valve cover breather problems

« **on:** March 02, 2012, 07:23:09 AM »

Both of my breathers drip oil like crazy when I'm cruising at higher rpm's. Makes a mess of the engine and everything around it. Please give me ideas to fix this. I heard about running the breathers into the logs to get rid of some oil that way. I don't have much room when the engine cover is down. It touches the top of the breathers. Here are a few pics. Thanks in advance.

« **Reply #1 on:** March 02, 2012, 07:30:15 AM »

usually when oil breathers start pushing oil out its an indication that your rings are not working so well anymore change the oil , thats where i would start. second try to clean the breathers remover as much oil as possible. if non of this works you will prob have to make a closed system for them with a puck tank .

« **Reply #2 on:** March 02, 2012, 07:31:03 AM »

Put a 90 fitting on the cover and run a line to a puke tank with a breather on it. Just make sure its higher than the cover. Do you have a oil splash guard under the breather now?

« **Reply #3 on:** March 02, 2012, 07:38:57 AM »

Is there a PCV system on it? That may help some, as well as a baffle below the breather(s). Having the breathers towords the front of the motor helps too.

Thats all I got

Daniel
Mash on it

« **Reply #4 on:** March 02, 2012, 08:07:20 AM »

I had the same issue w/ my bbc in my chevelle. I was using edelbrock breathers that matched my mt valve covers though. Put some copper mesh in them which helped. But after all that I was still getting some blow out so I ended up tapping the high side on both valve covers by the dizzy and ran a line to a catch tank then to the carb. Looks cleaner with out all the crap on the valve covers and no more oil in my intake when I pull the carb.

Fat fingered from the phone- Corey

« **Reply #5 on:** March 02, 2012, 09:03:48 AM »

Quote from: mash on it on March 02, 2012, 07:38:57 AM

Is there a PCV system on it? That may help some, as well as a baffle below the breather(s). Having the breathers towords the front of the motor helps too.

Thats all I got

Daniel
Mash on it

Don't take this the wrong way, trying to be constructive...

Not sure a PCV valve will do squat...There is very little vacuum in the induction system when running higher RPM, PCV really only works with a high manifold vacuum...Like in a car down the freeway or idling. $:-\$

My recommendation would mirror that of of either a puke tank or even running breather lines to the flame arrestor using a MOPAR style breather with the hose attachments. Hell you could even incorporate both, breathers to the puke tank, puke tank to the flame arrestor....This would be bullet proof as far as keeping oily crap all over the bilge area...

« **Reply #6 on:** March 02, 2012, 10:46:31 AM »

I thought about doing a puke tank. You guys don't like the idea of running hoses from the valve cover into the exhaust logs? It's a pretty fresh motor so I think it has all new everything. One thing that worries me a little is the previous person put synthetic oil in it and I thought that is a bad idea till the rings seat and everything gets broken in. If you run two lines to a puke tank where do you run the oil back into the motor at? Thanks for your help! TC

« **Reply #7 on:** March 02, 2012, 11:08:49 AM »

when i had my old valve covers i had those slap in breathers and i always got a drop of oil out of em. nothing to be worried about but enough to drive me crazy wiping it off. when i switched valve covers i went with moon tall breathers and ill get some steam out of em once in a while but no oil. perhaps something to try? i picked em up for like $20/ea at the long beach swapmeet.

and no dont run your OIL into the lake... thats not right.

« **Reply #8 on:** March 02, 2012, 11:18:39 AM »

thank you for saying that. we dont need any more of the epa getting mad .

« **Reply #9 on:** March 02, 2012, 11:23:06 AM »

Quote from: WELD on March 02, 2012, 10:46:31 AM

I thought about doing a puke tank. You guys don't like the idea of running hoses from the valve cover into the exhaust logs? It's a pretty fresh motor so I think it has all new everything. One thing that worries me a little is the previous person put synthetic oil in it and I thought that is a bad idea till the rings seat and everything gets broken in. If you run two lines to a puke tank where do you run the oil back into the motor at? Thanks for your help! TC

You simply cannot put it to the logs.....The exhaust is not only wet, but under pressure...No workie...

As for the synthetic, you are correct about letting the rings seat, but all is not lost. Pick up some motor break in addative for flat tappet cams with a good dose of zinc (Comp Cams stuff is pretty good IMHO) and put in one bottle per five quarts and get some hours on it. It should be fine.

The return breather lines need to go to the flame arrestor/air cleaner to be burnt through the engine.

GT

« **Reply #10 on:** March 02, 2012, 11:38:08 AM »

Good call on the oil in the lake. I didn't think of it that way. We don't need that! I will check into the tall breathers. My only problem might be the breathers hitting the engine cover when its closed. I might have to do a puke tank cause of clearance issues. I think they also make a rubber gromment that has a built in baffle to right? You guys are great help!

« **Reply #11 on:** March 02, 2012, 11:39:24 AM »

If anyone has pics of puke tank setups please post em!

« **Reply #12 on:** March 02, 2012, 11:51:57 AM »

Quote from: WELD on March 02, 2012, 11:39:24 AM

If anyone has pics of puke tank setups please post em!

How much oil we talking? If it is just the normal misting of crap that just makes an easy to clean up mess, then the tank may not be required. MOPAR style breathers and some fittings and done....Out the door for under $50 and an hour of your time...

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MOR-68781/

GT

« **Reply #13 on:** March 02, 2012, 12:04:11 PM »

It's not flowing out. Probably a good size drop from each breather every 2 to 3 seconds.Then it runs down the fins on the valve covers to the back of the motor. Makes a mess. I will pull the valve covers this weekend and see what I can do. I might need to trim my engine cover to fit around tall breathers.

« **Reply #14 on:** March 02, 2012, 02:08:07 PM »

is your breather on the other side in the back as well? you might wanna try flipping sides so the breather is towards the front.

« **Reply #15 on:** March 02, 2012, 06:16:09 PM »

Here is one I made for the blown nordic.

Puke tank I made for someone out there:
http://www.socaljetboats.com/engine-mechanical-electrical/making-a-puke-tank-and-tool-modification-pics/msg142699/#msg142699

« **Reply #16 on:** March 02, 2012, 06:43:00 PM »

Wow that's pretty! Awesome boat. Thanks for the pic. I think the breathers will be in the same position if I switch them from side to side. The breather is on the left side of each valve cover.

« **Reply #17 on:** March 03, 2012, 01:31:48 AM »

I put a vent line on the pan and ran the line to a puke tank, no more flying oil, also have large valve covers.

« **Reply #18 on:** March 03, 2012, 09:12:42 PM »

Thanks everyone for your help. I hope to come up with something very soon. I will post some pics. TC

« **Reply #19 on:** March 03, 2012, 09:48:26 PM »

I just picked up a breather box for mine based on this thread. I got mine from Moore parts on Anaheim. They are a Volkswagen place that I use all the time. I got an aluminum 4-1/2" deep x 8-3/4" long x 4" tall with 3 -10 welded on bungs for 65 bucks. I found a guy on eBay that sold fabricated aluminum push in style valve cover breather for 9 bucks. I'm going to weld on aluminum -10 bungs on the breathers and mount the box on the rear of the motor. Done deal. If you have any questions let me know

« **Reply #20 on:** March 04, 2012, 09:01:54 AM »

Quote from: Beaveretriever on March 03, 2012, 09:48:26 PM

I just picked up a breather box for mine based on this thread. I got mine from Moore parts on Anaheim. They are a Volkswagen place that I use all the time. I got an aluminum 4-1/2" deep x 8-3/4" long x 4" tall with 3 -10 welded on bungs for 65 bucks. I found a guy on eBay that sold fabricated aluminum push in style valve cover breather for 9 bucks. I'm going to weld on aluminum -10 bungs on the breathers and mount the box on the rear of the motor. Done deal. If you have any questions let me know

Need pics when it's done.

« **Reply #21 on:** March 04, 2012, 09:46:37 AM »

You will see it first hand in Parker Keith :-). I'll send pictures of it in a new threat.

« **Reply #22 on:** March 04, 2012, 10:08:20 AM »

That sounds awesome! Please post pics when done. TC

« **Reply #23 on:** March 04, 2012, 12:47:15 PM »

Quote from: Beaveretriever on March 04, 2012, 09:46:37 AM

You will see it first hand in Parker Keith :-). I'll send pictures of it in a new threat.

Do I need to make reservations for a ride in the flatty?

« **Reply #24 on:** March 04, 2012, 03:57:06 PM »

Quote from: WELD on March 02, 2012, 07:23:09 AM

Both of my breathers drip oil like crazy when I'm cruising at higher rpm's. Makes a mess of the engine and everything around it. Please give me ideas to fix this. I heard about running the breathers into the logs to get rid of some oil that way. I don't have much room when the engine cover is down. It touches the top of the breathers. Here are a few pics. Thanks in advance.

I would do a leak down test on the engine. I don't think a puke tank is normally warranted, assuming the engine is working correctly. Even forced induction engines, blown and turbo, I only put breathers on the engines.

Last week I dynoed an engine for a customer who had not sent his breathers with the engine. I grabbed a set of cheap Edelbrocks from Autozone just to be able to run the engine,, didn't leak a drop. True,, they were short pulls,, not runs across the lake, but my background is with endurance type engines that may run(hard) an hour at a time.

WELD

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