Water drip from exhaust?

« **on:** April 13, 2017, 07:49:27 PM »

See photo for reference, is this just a small bleed drain for the exhaust? It was dripping water pretty much all weekend while running and it's messing up my carpet.. only drips on the port side exhaust. If so I am going to run a small hose from it into the bilge.

« **Reply #1 on:** April 13, 2017, 08:00:48 PM »

Can you take a picture a wee bit further away?

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« **Reply #2 on:** April 14, 2017, 04:15:44 AM »

Had to find an old pic not at storage. It's located on the bottom of over transom pipes just after the logs.

« **Reply #3 on:** April 14, 2017, 06:55:35 AM »

Quote from: redlog701 on April 14, 2017, 04:15:44 AM

Had to find an old pic not at storage. It's located on the bottom of over transom pipes just after the logs.

Honestly, there should be no water at that point, but it sounds like it's good it's got a drain there.

Does this have Super Trapps on it?
What cam grind?
How many discs?
Do you have a gate valve?
Have a thermostat?
What does the engine temp run?
Is there a water dump line other than the header pipes?
Does it only do it at idle?
Ever any moisture in the oil?

GT

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« **Reply #4 on:** April 15, 2017, 01:27:48 PM »

Yes it has super traps/spark arrested, I think around 6-8 disks but I will count on Monday and give you exact. No separate water dump from engine.

Has a gate valve, no thermostat.
In Parker last weekend it ran around 150-160 when cruising 3000-4000 rpm. 190 - 200 when idling after running but that temp would drop a bit after a few min of idle. I have the temp dialed in pretty good IMO.

The drip was constant at idle and cruising, probably increased drop while cruising but I couldn't monitor that.

« **Reply #5 on:** April 15, 2017, 01:28:26 PM »

I will get the cam grind when I'm back home, I'm in SanDiego for the weekend.

« **Reply #6 on:** April 15, 2017, 01:29:08 PM »

Still has break in oil, no moisture at all.

« **Reply #7 on:** April 15, 2017, 02:25:43 PM »

Having done dozens of the Super Trapp kits, you should have a minimum of 20 discs per side. We ran 32.

The water temperature is too hot, drop it down so it runs about 140°F balls out.

Install a dump fitting with an inside diameter of about 5/16", you can use a larger fitting, but put a stainless steel 5/16" washer inside at the hose connection. With mufflers, you really need to reduce the amount of water in the pipes.

JMHO

GT

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« **Reply #8 on:** April 15, 2017, 02:27:52 PM »

And you need to install the springs on the end cap..... It allows expansion and contraction. Otherwise the discs get crushed.

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« **Reply #9 on:** April 15, 2017, 02:50:58 PM »

Just so you don't think I'm just being "my way or the highway", the biggest risk is to the exhaust seats on the rear cylinders.

The chances of dropping a valve are gigantic with it as is.

GT

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« **Reply #10 on:** April 15, 2017, 05:40:14 PM »

Quote from: redlog701 on April 15, 2017, 01:29:08 PM

Still has break in oil, no moisture at all.

The break in oil from first fire? You should change the oil.

Metal particles from the new/fresh internal components seating will take life out of a fresh engine.

« **Reply #11 on:** April 16, 2017, 09:42:24 AM »

Thank you GT I may PM you later when I get back to boat to confirm disk number and elaborate more on setup.

Flusher - calling the guy I bought the boat off of today to see if he change breaking oil from first fire, engine only has 12 hours on it now. I was told to run it closer to 17-20 hours before changing. I really hope he flushed it after fire up and initial seat. That would be a bad move!

« **Reply #12 on:** April 16, 2017, 10:21:44 PM »

I have 3 sets of those pipes now. I have seen many where they were drilled out, one small hole, with a small bit inside that little circle on the bottom of the pipe. Then a fitting and short hose to the bilge. This is to have a drain so the pipes don't rust/wear out prematurely. Here is a pic of a set on my bench now. And another set that don't have any. It's a good thing. Those pipes rust out right there

« **Reply #13 on:** April 17, 2017, 03:17:02 PM »

Roadrunner - Thank you for the confirmation, I did use a mirror to better inspect and found the small pin size hole. There is also a larger hole behind it closer to manifold but I don't believe water was dripping from that one. I will run lines into bilge to redirect.

GT - The Cam Grind # is 293H

The actual disks were 11 each side. I had spares that came with boat so I disassembled the traps and cleaned up/added 4 more disks to each end (15 each for now).

I called Supertrapp and spoke to a tech who advised against the 20-30 disks but agreed I needed more since my disks were dark/black indicating a rich running engine. He also stated that springs were "30 year old way" and they do not have springs on any of their systems now and do not sale the parts. Their reasoning was that the disks will not crush unless super heated and under extreme load and that the springs made for a less reliable system that would cause rotation and misalignment of disks on my system since it is a center bolt type setup. I will run the boat again and read color of plugs & disks to fine tune (looking for golden brown).

Wide open throttle temp was under 150 probably between 125 - 150. If you look at attached photo of my temp gauge you will see it's hard to read below 150, when I was at WOT a few times last week the gauge would drop to about the 125 mark. Cruising was 150-160. I am going to tap in a mechanical water gauge at my thermostat housing.

Where do I intersect the the water lines to install a dump line setup per your suggestion above???! Should I tee off of each lines from the thermostat housing before they lines dump to the exhaust?

« **Reply #14 on:** April 17, 2017, 04:37:54 PM »

Quote from: redlog701 on April 17, 2017, 03:17:02 PM

Roadrunner - Thank you for the confirmation, I did use a mirror to better inspect and found the small pin size hole. There is also a larger hole behind it closer to manifold but I don't believe water was dripping from that one. I will run lines into bilge to redirect.

GT - The Cam Grind # is 293H

The actual disks were 11 each side. I had spares that came with boat so I disassembled the traps and cleaned up/added 4 more disks to each end (15 each for now).

I called Supertrapp and spoke to a tech who advised against the 20-30 disks but agreed I needed more since my disks were dark/black indicating a rich running engine. He also stated that springs were "30 year old way" and they do not have springs on any of their systems now and do not sale the parts. Their reasoning was that the disks will not crush unless super heated and under extreme load and that the springs made for a less reliable system that would cause rotation and misalignment of disks on my system since it is a center bolt type setup. I will run the boat again and read color of plugs & disks to fine tune (looking for golden brown).

Wide open throttle temp was under 150 probably between 125 - 150. If you look at attached photo of my temp gauge you will see it's hard to read below 150, when I was at WOT a few times last week the gauge would drop to about the 125 mark. Cruising was 150-160. I am going to tap in a mechanical water gauge at my thermostat housing.

Where do I intersect the the water lines to install a dump line setup per your suggestion above???! Should I tee off of each lines from the thermostat housing before they lines dump to the exhaust?

Did you inform Supertrapp that these were wet header pipes?

The tech I dealt with (probably 20+ years ago) told me to add ten discs over the amount in the calculator and to safety wire the discs together at 180° so they wouldn't rotate. Did the same on the desert Honda XR 600.

As for the dump line, the best way may be to run a separate hose off either the intake or the thermostat housing.

When I get a moment I'll try to find my notebook with all the Trapp crap in it. I'm almost certain we ran 32 discs wet. My Corvette powered 1972 K5 Blazer has 5" Supertrapps and it had 22 discs per side.

I need to pull that cam up, but I'm almost thinking you need to convert that to a Bassett valve set up. That's how we did the Smallblock Sothwind.

GT

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« **Reply #15 on:** April 17, 2017, 10:16:14 PM »

- Yes I stated this was a wet setup, he said to add what I had in disks and run it again, look at plug color/disks and add more from there if necessary. The tech basically wanted to reiterate that it was better to start rich then to jump straight to a full lean setup. This is a 4.8" disk so I'm assuming that's 5"

When you say Bassett valve setup are you referring to a separate water line/gate valve to exhaust independent of engine water intake? Or are you talking changing the actual valves at the heads?

« **Reply #16 on:** April 17, 2017, 10:17:54 PM »

Not meaning to do the smile face thing.. I think the site automatically does that with some HTML coding for my ! ?...

« **Reply #17 on:** April 17, 2017, 10:35:51 PM »

Quote from: redlog701 on April 17, 2017, 10:16:14 PM

- Yes I stated this was a wet setup, he said to add what I had in disks and run it again, look at plug color/disks and add more from there if necessary. The tech basically wanted to reiterate that it was better to start rich then to jump straight to a full lean setup. This is a 4.8" disk so I'm assuming that's 5"

When you say Bassett valve setup are you referring to a separate water line/gate valve to exhaust independent of engine water intake? Or are you talking changing the actual valves at the heads?

What I did was put in a 5# spring in a Bassett valve and converted the pipes to "off at idle" type deal with a dump line.

The engine we used was a circle track motor and we knew very little about it.

It works perfect.

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« **Reply #18 on:** April 18, 2017, 10:06:17 AM »

GT - Can you PM me a picture / diagram of that setup. I like the off idle idea. Just want to be clear on hose routing.

« **Reply #19 on:** April 18, 2017, 11:27:23 AM »

Quote from: redlog701 on April 18, 2017, 10:06:17 AM

GT - Can you PM me a picture / diagram of that setup. I like the off idle idea. Just want to be clear on hose routing.

I'm on it.

GT

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« **Reply #20 on:** May 03, 2017, 03:17:25 AM »

GT - Sent you a couple PMs and never heard back from you. Hope I didn't burn a bridge this early in my SCJB residency!

I Lougled the relief/dump setup and found that people were suggesting to add a tee between the gate valve and split tee to the logs. Is this to ensure the pump does not over pressurize the block & heads? See attached diagram I found.

This does not illustrate the setup you explained above since your description seems to be dumping after thermohousing and before exhaust... Let me know when you have time (hoping before Avi trip).

« **Reply #21 on:** May 03, 2017, 08:12:16 PM »

Quote from: redlog701 on May 03, 2017, 03:17:25 AM

GT - Sent you a couple PMs and never heard back from you. Hope I didn't burn a bridge this early in my SCJB residency!

I Lougled the relief/dump setup and found that people were suggesting to add a tee between the gate valve and split tee to the logs. Is this to ensure the pump does not over pressurize the block & heads? See attached diagram I found.

This does not illustrate the setup you explained above since your description seems to be dumping after thermohousing and before exhaust... Let me know when you have time (hoping before Avi trip).

Nah bro, it's not like that at all. Lol

I've been stupid busy and just taking a breather once in a while.

I'll have some time Friday, I'll hit you up then. It's my last day at my current job and I have the weekend off.

I worked all last week and all weekend and I'm just out of gas.

We're good as far as I'm concerned.

GT

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« **Reply #22 on:** May 04, 2017, 01:51:44 AM »

Totally understand! I will owe you some drinks when we finally meet!

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« **Reply #23 on:** April 22, 2019, 04:23:20 PM »

Bringing this thread back to life. I believe these ports should actually have water running to them. Looking at other photos of “retro OTE pipes it looks like some have fittings attached for running water. My pipes had seriously browned over the years but I just had them rechromed and want make them last now. Any ideas on how to plumb?

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