at the last race i noticed a stringer that was cracked, so out came the motor
pops in his usual form tearing my shit up
 

it appears that is started from this hole being drilled

took some of the glass off to see the damage


the crack stopped at the hole, and boy was i happy about that, so i stuffed a dowel in it and called it good, then started to glass it up.

im puting a rail kit 4 1/2 feet up the stringer so this wont happen again, as well as a place to put the mew gas tank
the rails are 6061 t-6

my dad could'nt cut two peices the same legth if he tried or drill two holes in the same place to save his life but i dont care because for me this is what it's all about

yup she's board as hell but she likes to be with her grandpa and daddy



pops got tired so we didnt get to finish the glass work or the rest of the rails but there is allway next weekend. thanks for looking ralph
any comments or advice is welcome

those 4 peices of aluminum cost 180.00 and i only used one of each. if you buy a rail kit they range from500 to 1k and you dont get enough to go all the way up

those 4 peices of aluminum cost 180.00 and i only used one of each. if you buy a rail kit they range from500 to 1k and you dont get enough to go all the way up

For the time being, I'm just going to sandwich the stringers with 1/4" aluminum plates, about 1' long.  Just enough to give me 6" on either side of the mounting bolts.  I'm also going to put a SS bushing through the stingers so the bolts never ride right on the wood.  I'm not racing so this should be strong enough.  I know how much aluminum is as I just bought the 1/4" x 4" x 8' plate and it was around $50.00.  But it's good 6061 aluminum.

Looks good!

Time to get the little one dirty  lol jk

You did such a great job....I got a stringer for you to fix too! 

im not sure that i would do anything unless its starting to crack, maybe some resin to protect it

Hey Ralph,  Is using oak dowels a good choice when it comes to plugging the old bolt holes?  I've got to start over on placing the motor mounts and plugging the old holes seems like a good way to start.

BTW, have you got any updates? 

no updates will be working on it sunday, as far as dowels im not sure that it matters other than personal preference. its not a structural thing its about keeping water out and the stringer from rotting
jmho,

so i got to work on it a little more this weekend, and with the arival of comp jet a new camshaft was in order. this camshaft was mad specifically for this motor by computing the amount of air that it can take in and get out, as we know a motor is a big air pump.

first you gotta get the head off

we could'nt find the right size 1/2'' drive socket so we broke all these

putting the new cam in

now the fun, time to degree the camshaft. finding absolute top dead center


thats all i'm going to say about degreeing a camshaft because there is probably a few different ways to do it. just follow your camgrinder's instructions.
taking it back out to lube it after the degree is done


all done with the motor

back to the rail kit, this is the way my seat was mounted

now we  went to this T-rail for strength

Sweet, thanks Ralph. That seat has some side bolsters to it!

Ralph, you may not know what you're doing , but I sure am learning a ton from your posts, what grind cam did you end up using?

Skip

 Looks realy good, and strong, but where are you going to hide the ducks now ?

I found a simmilar crack in the new (old) flatty project. Had the same idea, gonna run the rails all the way up to the..........V-drive. It has some nice plates w/ holes sawed in 'em on the outside of the stringers.