No one? I just pulled all the carpet out of my daytona and I'm lookin for a carpet substitute.(I hate carpet in a boat) Is it just like resin with extra wax?

I've used a product b-4 called durabak it's about 100 bucks a gal. I'd still kinda like to hit the bottom with something else first. It looks like you can already see the glass cloth ,and I haven't even sanded off the carpet adh. yet. 

What is Flowcoat? Where? Why?

What is a flowcoat ?
      A flowcoat is similar to a gelcoat except that it is used after the laminate has been made. Flowcoat has a small quantity of wax added to enable the surface to dry "tack-free". It is usually brushed but can also be sprayed. Flowcoats, like gelcoats are available in a wide range of colours.

From Marc's thread:
http://www.socaljetboats.com/index.php/topic,2366.0.html
http://www.marinewatch.info/library/fibreglass.html#Finish

What is a flowcoat ?
      A flowcoat is similar to a gelcoat except that it is used after the laminate has been made. Flowcoat has a small quantity of wax added to enable the surface to dry "tack-free". It is usually brushed but can also be sprayed. Flowcoats, like gelcoats are available in a wide range of colours.

When I did flow coating on the boats, we just used tooling resin mixed with a surfacing agent, like parafin wax. Dries super hard, won't crack and is very clear. You can add any gel coat to clear resin to tint it if you want a little color to it, or you can just use gel as your final flow coat with the same agent added to it.
I'm sure the other, newer products are fine too, probably better. I'm just telling you how we did it back in the day at companies like Rogers and so on. It can be done pretty easily with products at hand.  Like any body work, it's all in the prep.    

Presonally, I'd never use the stuff at Lowes.

I've always used straight acetone to remove any glue leftover from taking out carpet. Costs a little more than thinner but you'll have to wipe down the area to be flowed with acetone anyway to remove any film and impurities that the mineral spirts left behind.

Flowing gel with a brush is a little tricky and again it's all in the prep. Apply too thin, and you'll have to sand away the surfacing agent and flow again. To thick and it'll puddle or worse, crack. Done right, you'll have zero brush marks.

Sorry if I asked you already but where are you in Utah? My wife's family on her dads side are from ( and still a few of them left there) Nephi. Beautiful part of the state looking East towards the mountains.

Old Rigger I'm in slc  nephi is about 1 hour south of me. One of my favorite lakes is right by there ,yuba lake.  Greg I guess I could try tap. there is a west marine sorta by me but they are way pricey, and every time I ask them a question the hand me there manual and say I DUNNO.  The generic shit I've been buyin at lowes dries tack free.

Kreg try Sherfab fiberglass (google) Doug is a great guy has all the F/g goodies you might want need Tom

I thought there was only laminating resin, and finishing resin (with wax)  and you could laminate with finishing reisn if you sanded between coats??

lol. This doesn't even make sense.

And don't forget tooling resin.

Do yourself a favor and use the right resin for it's intended use. NEVER use any resin with wax in it for laminating anything to anything in a boat. You can use finishing resin layer upon layer if you wish, there's no real reason to but you can do it, but only for finishing the project. It's just as easy to build up to your finishing layer with regular resin and then for the final...finishing resin. Every shop I ever worked at has made this mistake at least once, accidentally (or intentionally) getting some surfacing agent mixed up in the lamination process. You'd better sand and sand like you've never done before and pray that you've removed every trace of the agent before you continue whit the next layer.

This mistake has been made since the beginning of boat building. I was talking to a guy at the Long Beach boat races 2 years ago that was working at Powercat boats in Paramount back in the late 50s. They were making the switch from wood boats to glass. The first one they built they did in two separate lay-ups, both with wax in them. It wasn't until they were racing the new boat (they were a very famous boat company and did very well in marathon races too, check out their web site if you get a chance) and the boat started to separate. they had in effect built two boats, one in another and by the end of the race both had completely delaminated from one another, one just sitting in the other. Only whatever little hardware there was, was holding them together. In all fairness to them, it was something so new that very few guys knew how to do it. Even before they got to laminating they made a big mistake. They popped open their first drum of resin and preparing to do the first boat, they mixed the entire drum with catalist and went to work. lol The whole 50 gallons kicked before they got done with the skin. 

I use tooling resin for everything I do here in the driveway, it's the best you can get but I have a good source for it. Laminating resin is fine too.

Are you going to plug the holes and just glass over that little area, or are you glassing the entire stringers?

Greg if you need pic posting help call or pm me Tom
btw heres the link to sherfab    http://www.sherfab.com/