First, I strongly recommend cutting at least a 1/2" radius with a router on the top edges of the stringers.  Jarvis's post ( my basket case
http://www.socaljetboats.com/index.php?topic=23445.msg277661.msg#277661) about mixing your own fairing material of resin and microsphears ( http://revchem.com/products/additives-fillers/) to build inside corner radii between the new wood of the stringers and the existing hull.  You need these large radii so that it is easier for the new glass to conform to the surface and to prevent stress risers.

Using 12.5oz +/-45 (http://www.fibreglast.com/product/saertex-450-gm2-stitched-biaxial-fiberglass-2805/Stitched_Fiberglass), I would tab in the entire vertical surface of the stringers up to the radius and out 3"-4" into the original hull.  Follow this up with another layer of +/-45, this time, wrapping over the top of the stringers and extending another 3"-4" beyond the first layer.  I recommend laminating smaller sections rather than trying to do an entire stringer at once.  Overlap the sections by 2" minimum so the strength of the strands is continuous.  Stagger the overlap areas so you don't get huge bulges.  Use laminating resin for this stage.

If you want your floors to be really nice, cover the +/-45 with a layer of 1.5oz mat.  This is not an option if you are using epoxy resin.  Mat contains a styrene binder to hold the strands together and is only compatible with polyester and vinyl ester resin.  Sand the mat layer to blend and smooth the surface.  DO NOT sand into the layers of +/-45, this is where the strength comes from.  If the strands of the +/-45 are compromised from sanding, stresses will not be properly transferred from the stringers into the existing hull.  The mat is there as a filler to build up low spots.  Add more layers of mat to build up low spots rather than sanding through the +/-45.  Use finishing resin for this stage because it will be sanded before the final lamination.

Lastly, I would laminate one final layer of 6oz cloth over the whole thing.  Extend this layer 2" minimum beyond all previous layers.  6oz cloth wets out super easy.  For this layer, I would mix some microspheres into the resin.  As the resin cures, it will shrink and pull away from the fibers and the texture of the glass will show through.  To reduce this, the resin can be thickened with a filler.  The more filler you use, the more difficult it will be to saturate the glass, but the less shrinkage.  Use laminating resin for this step.

To put a nice glossy finish and to seal everything, brush on a thin layer of finishing resin, clear gel coat (http://www.fibreglast.com/product/Clear_Gel_Coat_just_gel_coats_00180/Polyester_Resins), or gel coat with the color of your choice.  Note: The gel coats will provide UV protection that the resin will not.  Thin with styrene thinner (http://www.fibreglast.com/product/Styrene_Thinner_70 Polyester_Resins) and add the appropriate amount of styrene wax (http://www.fibreglast.com/product/Styrene_Wax_71/Polyester_Resins).  Thinning will promote flowing out and will reduce brush marks.

Some thoughts on resin:

All resin degrades from UV radiation exposure.  Epoxy is affected the most.  If you insist on using epoxy, your top layer should contain UV protection.  Do not add UV protection to every lamination as the additive degrades the resin's properties.

Polyester will NOT adhere to epoxy!

Epoxy will only achieve a mechanical bond to polyester, not a chemical bond.  The greater mechanical bond of epoxy and its higher tensile strength can provide satisfactory bonds.

A lamination of vinyl ester resin can be applied between epoxy and polyester to achieve both a mechanical and chemical bond.

Polyester finishing resin is made by adding styrene wax to polyester laminating resin.  You can also buy polyester finishing resin premixed.

It's all about surface preparation!  No resin will adhere properly if the surface it is bonding to is not properly prepared.

A couple theories on laminating:

Resin kicks fast!  To get the longest working time possible, keep the following in mind:

1. Using a metal bucket while working with resin will accelerate its gel time.

2.  Resin will melt the wax in paper paint buckets, contaminating the resin.  Only plastic mixing cups should be used.

3.  Excessive or aggressive mixing of the resin adds energy to the resin and causes it to kick faster.  It also creates air bubbles which requires additional work to eliminate from the lamination.

4.  Higher temperatures and humidity decrease pot life, making resin kick faster.  Lower temperature has the opposite effect.

5.  A higher concentration of mass of resin, as is the case inside the mixing cup, will kick faster.  Get the resin out of the bucket as fast as you can.  I do this by pouring the resin out onto the surface or fabric which I am laminating.  The thin cross-section of the lamination does not have the concentration of mass as in the mixing cup.

6.  Mix the resin at the last possible second.  Make sure everything is ready to go before pouring and mixing.

7.  If you are using epoxy resin, there is a tolerance for the mixture of part A and part B.  Part B is NOT a hardener or catalyst like Methyl Ethyl Ketone Peroxide (MEKP) is to polyester and vinyl ester resins.  If that tolerance is exceeded, it will not kick at all.  You can vary the amount of MEKP in polyester and vinyl ester to change its kick time (and properties).

8.  Once the resin starts to gel, you are done working with it.  If you try to continue, you will end up with a big mess.  You will feel the resin thickening before it starts to gel.  It will then turn to a Jell-O consistency, followed by a rubbery stage (green state), and lastly a hard plastic.

9.  It is best to have two mixing cups.  Mixing new resin in a cup that has gelling resin will cause the new resin to kick faster.

When laminating:

Wood soaks up a lot of resin I would apply resin to the wood first in the area that you are working.  Then apply resin to the glass part of the hull.  This gives a little time for resin to soak into the wood.  After you have"wet out" the area where you will be applying glass, place the fabric over the wet resin and apply more resin.  This saturates the fabric from both sides.  The wood will continue to soak up resin.  Be careful that a dry spot doesn't develop.

Learn to work the glass into the corners so that you don't pull voids.

Handle your fabric carefully so that the fibers are not distorted.

Keep your glass covered, dust settling on to it will prevent proper bonding of the fibers and cause a milky look to the finished lamination.  Glass fibers will turn transparent when wet out but dust will turn white.

Your hull is made of polyester.  Degrease it really good first.  Don't really like to wipe it down after.  Acetone will penetrate oils into the crevices of freshly ground surfaces.  I blow it off with clean/dry air.

Grind/sand with 36 grit.  Any loose glass needs to be removed as does degraded glass and resin.  Make sure no shiney surfaces remain.

Post pictures

Wow.... good luck!!