Not sure if this is in the right section but was hoping to get opinions and advice. I have been out testing this week and found I have a really bad bow to tail bounce (porpous) at around 75. The pump is a split bowl with a place diverter and set back aways. There is also a ride plate. What i am wondering is if the ride plate is at a bad angle. I have tried fixing it with the diverter but had no luck at any angle. Would take pictures but i am at work. Any ideas or suggestions???

try adjusting in small dosses. but write it down ( like a log book) so you have a reference to work from.

Correct full down didnt stop it. Yes there is a drop. No wedges. Not sure about loader or shoe. New to me boat. The ride plate is at an upward slope. Dont know by how many degrees

Correct full down didnt stop it. Yes there is a drop. No wedges. Not sure about loader or shoe. New to me boat. The ride plate is at an upward slope. Dont know by how many degrees

Drop the ride plate to about 2 degrees below even. If you don't have an angle finder but have an Android based smart phone (who don't these days?) use this badboy...

http://bubble.en.softonic.com/android

For I-Phone

http://itunes.apple.com/us/app/ihandy-level-free/id299852753?mt=8

The upward angle of the ride plate takes away anything for the pump to push against, this the bouncy ride...

Without a ridiculous amount of HP (700+), the ride plate really needs to be even, or in a downward angle.

I believe this is where your issue may reside.

My little boat at over 80 will completely ruin a set of board shorts when it starts to fly, it bounces from tail to nose. The cure was a major reduction in HP. I believe a shoe and plate along with a droop and maybe even an override pedal for the Diverter would have cured it, but a 100 HP horsepower reduction was almost free....

After all, we're all just broke ass boaters..

Be safe and have fun (hows that for an oxymoron? 

GT

Well the idea of HP reduction would be great if I had that 700 to start with...

I was thinking that the plate need to come down as well but wanted some opinions... Then again i will have to check just how far the upward angle is now. The boat sits nose high in the water and feels like it is nose high at speed. Havent seen it from the outside looking in though...

Here are a couple more pics...

Glenn, i dissagree.. start at 2*and work from there it could get nasty on shut down if he goes below 0* depending on the depth of the shoe...

So maybe start from the upward degree and start going to 0*

glenn, the only reason i say that is because at level on the hornet (set back pump) the shut down was really nasty at 80.. raised the shoe and put plate to 2* up and walla 4mph faster...

another thing you can try is wedging the droop down. while you are under the boat with a straight edge check for rocker. you may not have enogh hp to stay on it if you do.. if there is a big rocker you may have to ditch the droop all together... 
hope this helps
ralph

you need to check for the shoe and shoe depth, you have set back pump and ride plate you it should be there

Took me some pics when i got home. Although its ugly this is what it looks like

The absolute first thing I need you to do before that boat sees the water again is re-bolt that damn loader.....That thing wants to kill you dead.

Get some hardened hardware and through bolt it......There is one bolt missing and the others are just stainless steel machine screw...

Ever seen what happens when one of those breaks loose? Look up "ugly" in the dictionary and there should be pictures.....

With that being said....

WOW that shoe looks deep.   

  Uhm, yeah.

Ok change the screws to bolts and replace the missing. (guess i should have looked under there earlier  )
What about the shoe being deep. I dont quite understand

use grade 8 allen head bolts with lots of anti-seize and run them all the way through the intake and put nylock nuts on them..
dont worry about the shoe just yet, lets try the free/cheep stuff first
what angle is the ride plate at?
do you have rocker in the hull?
you can remove the droop and try it, all this stuff is free and you get to go to the lake and test wich is another plus
take a gps with you and make one change at a time...

http://www.fastenal.com/web/products/detail.ex?sku=1124258


 

IMHO, and this may require lifting the engine up, drill the threaded holes all the way through the intake, put a dab of marine sealer around the bolts near the head and through bolt the whole ball of wax. I would use Ny-Locks (AKA aircraft nuts) but if you have the room (seldom do) put them in with standard nuts and then run an aircraft nut down on top as a jamb nut. It makes it easier to do...You will probably need an assistant either way.

The ramifications cannot be expressed enough if that dealio comes loose at speed. 

Another little test to do when your out tinkering with the boat is to put a straight edge along the bottom of the boat from just in front of the intake preferably on the fiberglass and all the way back to the ride plate and note where there is contact, or how far things are from the edge (i.e. the intake just before the opening, the loader edges, the shoe, rideplate etc.). Put these in your notebook and keep them for reference.

That boat has had a major amount of mods done from when it rolled out of the factory, I would not be at all surprised if you need to "undo" some of those mods.

Good luck, in all honesty, I think you may be really close to having a badass running boat.

GT

when you have the loader out inspect it for cracks. maybe sand blast it and paint it white so if it crackes you will be able to see it

For shits and giggles I downloaded the leveler app and found my plate was 4* up. Adjustment prob not so critical on mine, but hopefully on yours you'll see a difference.

Sent from my ADR6400L using Tapatalk 2

Loader is now thru bolted in the hull...