rail kit questions?

« **on:** January 02, 2010, 05:45:38 PM »

I am currently going through all the rigging and plumbing on my boat as well as getting it painted. I ditched the 4 point mount setup so that i can switch to a rail kit because i have a little more horsepower in the plans. Current problem is that the boat is only 1/4 stringer, is it worth buying a rail kit or should i just make my own? I can purchase aluminum easily. In the future i would like to convert the boat to full stringer because i will eventually build a higher hp motor in the future.

« **Reply #1 on:** January 02, 2010, 06:32:23 PM »

It would be easy to take this the wrong way, but here goes..

I see no value in adding a rail kit to your hull other than it's easier to take the motor in and out...Four point mounts are stupid strong, as strong or stronger than rails IMHO. there will literally be nothing for the rail kit to tie to for added strength, I would just build some backing plates from aluminum for the existing four points.

I really am serious that I mean this in the most positive way possible...

GT

« **Reply #2 on:** January 02, 2010, 06:59:35 PM »

Quote from: GT Jets on January 02, 2010, 06:32:23 PM

It would be easy to take this the wrong way, but here goes..

I see no value in adding a rail kit to your hull other than it's easier to take the motor in and out...Four point mounts are stupid strong, as strong or stronger than rails IMHO. there will literally be nothing for the rail kit to tie to for added strength, I would just build some backing plates from aluminum for the existing four points.

I really am serious that I mean this in the most positive way possible...

GT

i second that.

also, weather you have a 4 point or a rail kit....your weakest point is the 1/4 stringers if you're going to go 'big hp'

« **Reply #3 on:** January 08, 2010, 06:00:46 AM »

Quote from: GT Jets on January 02, 2010, 06:32:23 PM

It would be easy to take this the wrong way, but here goes..

I see no value in adding a rail kit to your hull other than it's easier to take the motor in and out...Four point mounts are stupid strong, as strong or stronger than rails IMHO. there will literally be nothing for the rail kit to tie to for added strength, I would just build some backing plates from aluminum for the existing four points.

I really am serious that I mean this in the most positive way possible...

GT

Wow my old man (73) told me the same thing about my 4 points after I was looking at rails. He knows his shit when looking at mechanical stuff.

« **Reply #4 on:** February 03, 2010, 05:05:31 PM »

I've decided to completely gut the boat and replace the stringers and remove the wood from the transom or replace it. I am going to run full stringers in the boat and put a small sub floor in the boat.

« **Reply #5 on:** February 03, 2010, 06:48:36 PM »

Quote from: bbfsouthwind on February 03, 2010, 05:05:31 PM

I've decided to completely gut the boat and replace the stringers and remove the wood from the transom or replace it. I am going to run full stringers in the boat and put a small sub floor in the boat.

how do you. or how are you going to support the boat for that

« **Reply #6 on:** February 04, 2010, 05:26:49 PM »

I am going to remove the stringers first, then remove the boat from my dolly and place it on a 3 point support system and the fit and glass in the new stringers.

« **Reply #7 on:** February 04, 2010, 05:40:00 PM »

Quote from: bbfsouthwind on February 04, 2010, 05:26:49 PM

I am going to remove the stringers first, then remove the boat from my dolly and place it on a 3 point support system and the fit and glass in the new stringers.

what's the three point supports system... im asking because i need two replace my stingers also just not sure if i want to do this myself

« **Reply #8 on:** February 05, 2010, 09:33:59 AM »

Just using jackstands as the 3 point support system. Here is a great restoration thread over on pb, lots of pictures and great info. Read through this and it will give you a better idea of what is needed to replace the stringers, etc. http://www.performanceboats.com/html/forums/showthread.php?t=10678

« **Reply #9 on:** February 11, 2010, 03:42:00 PM »

I have a 77 southwind with quarter stringers. I have a rail kit in it. its a 1050 hp bbc efi nitrous motor. I havent ran it very long with the new motor but so far no problems or sighn's of em. I ran the shit out of my old motor, about 650 hp and no problems at all. I don't see any issues with my set up but if I do I will install full stringers. Quarter stinger boats have a beefier floor and bottom hull than a full stringer boats so if you did install full stringers your boat will be stronger and more rigid than a original full stringer boat, but a little heavier i would imagine. Not a big deal because our hulls are pretty light. One thing for sure I stay away from choppy or rough water. I pull it out of the water and jump into my ski boat, aka dock slammer. does well in rough water. how much hp is you new motor?

« **Reply #10 on:** February 12, 2010, 10:26:04 AM »

Not sure on the hp yet or what motor is going in there. But i am thinking along the lines of selling all of my bbf stuff and starting fresh with a ls1 based engine with f.i. and turbos. I just want to do it all right the first time and not have to tear into the fiberglass or stringers on the bottom of the boat again. Its already tore apart, why not replace it?

« **Reply #11 on:** February 15, 2010, 02:35:07 PM »

In that case I would do the work. like you said don't do it twice. If you have it tore down and ready to prep I would do it to. twin turbo ls1? Nice. wHAT TURBOS AND EFI ARE YOU GOING TO GO WITH?

« **Reply #12 on:** February 15, 2010, 04:25:33 PM »

Not sure what engine setup i am going to run. All of those details are still up in the air

« **Reply #13 on:** February 15, 2010, 05:37:36 PM »

Quote from: GT Jets on January 02, 2010, 06:32:23 PM

It would be easy to take this the wrong way, but here goes..

I see no value in adding a rail kit to your hull other than it's easier to take the motor in and out...Four point mounts are stupid strong, as strong or stronger than rails IMHO. there will literally be nothing for the rail kit to tie to for added strength, I would just build some backing plates from aluminum for the existing four points.

I really am serious that I mean this in the most positive way possible...

GT

I would suggest going with the rail kit. I did for my 460 Ford, easier to get the engine out and I would be willing to bet way stronger than a standard 4 point. Angle aluminum is easy to do yourself, motor plates well thats another story...... Plus you can always take the motor rails out if you sell the boat or they will be a selling point if you ever get rid of it

« **Reply #14 on:** February 15, 2010, 05:58:57 PM »

Quote from: RainMaker on February 15, 2010, 05:37:36 PM

I would suggest going with the rail kit. I did for my 460 Ford, easier to get the engine out and I would be willing to bet way stronger than a standard 4 point. Angle aluminum is easy to do yourself, motor plates well thats another story...... Plus you can always take the motor rails out if you sell the boat or they will be a selling point if you ever get rid of it

FWIW, standard four corner rail kits have only four 3/8" bolts holding down the pillow blocks, cast four points have 8, 3/8" bolts going through the stringer and sandwiched through two substantially thicker pieces of material....

When I stated that cast four points were stronger than a rail kit, it was in reference to a 1/4 stringer boat...However, if backing plates on a cast setup are used, no contest, the cast are superior strength wise...

Failures on rail kits normally happen when the boat flips out of control and impacts the water (something I know a little about) if you are belted in the boat and under a rollbar, I would take the backed up cast kits over two-hole pillow blocks in a rail kit....Our boat was aluminum so the term rail kit really does not apply...

Just my opinion.

Don't be hatin'

GT

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