Strake repair

« **on:** February 02, 2013, 06:06:01 PM »

Well im crying inside little. Although the hull itself isn't pierced the strake is. Just spend the last 2 hours slowly chipping away the patch and this is where im at

Fat fingered from the phone- Corey

« **Reply #1 on:** February 02, 2013, 07:35:18 PM »

I did some repair to mine a few years back after floating onto a rock...Used marglass. I primed it an did some minor paint touch up. Holding up fine. Yours is a bit deeper an if you can flip it, that might be the best way to do a solid repair. But you should be able to get to it on ur back. The color on that hull is bitchn...might be able to get a cheapo air brush kit an touch up the color match. Post ur progress...Its just fiberglass.

« **Reply #2 on:** February 02, 2013, 08:05:00 PM »

Quote from: Your Mom on February 02, 2013, 07:35:18 PM

I did some repair to mine a few years back after floating onto a rock...Used marglass. I primed it an did some minor paint touch up. Holding up fine. Yours is a bit deeper an if you can flip it, that might be the best way to do a solid repair. But you should be able to get to it on ur back. The color on that hull is bitchn...might be able to get a cheapo air brush kit an touch up the color match. Post ur progress...Its just fiberglass.

Yeah, that looks serious enough that Duraglass, etc isn't gonna work. Probably grinding it out further and patching it with strips of resined fiberglass (do that on a piece of cardboard then crawl under and stick it to the hull the smooth it out, roll it, repeat.....) and building it back up, grind it down, then smooth it using duraglass, or whatever.

At least it's not right on a trailer bunk! That would suck!

Ray

Ray

« **Reply #3 on:** February 02, 2013, 08:23:40 PM »

That should really be repaired from the inside out...

I have White Trash I here just sitting if you just want to swap it out.

Hit me with a PM if your interested in talking about it.

Your looking at about a 20 hour repair by the time you gut the interior and floor... That's if you don't find more problems (you know how that goes)...

« **Reply #4 on:** February 02, 2013, 11:24:34 PM »

The damage is where the chisel is laying in the bilage. It's weird the entire strake is hollow? I used a bore snake with a camera to look inside and sure enough it is. And there's no way the other patch was water tight and I made 4 trips to the lake with no leaks other than the packing seal on the jet. It's like the hull was laid then preformed strikes were laid on later, is that possible?

Thanks for the offer gt but I'm gonna see what I can do with this.

« **Reply #5 on:** February 02, 2013, 11:39:45 PM »

i would grind out all of the damage, feather back ALL of the gelcoat in that area and get it back to glass in about a 4-6" area around where the damage is. once everything is clean, id mix up some epoxy resin and filler to a peanut butter consistency in small batches and slowly start building up the strake. dont do one giant glob. you want to make sure the resin is curing properly, adhering properly, and a giant glob is going to have a lot of heat with your hardener. once its built up, sand it into shape, slap some body filler on it to make it smooth, then either primer and paint or gelcoat the area to make it pretty.

« **Reply #6 on:** February 02, 2013, 11:47:45 PM »

Quote from: ka0tyk on February 02, 2013, 11:39:45 PM

i would grind out all of the damage, feather back ALL of the gelcoat in that area and get it back to glass in about a 4-6" area around where the damage is. once everything is clean, id mix up some epoxy resin and filler to a peanut butter consistency in small batches and slowly start building up the strake. dont do one giant glob. you want to make sure the resin is curing properly, adhering properly, and a giant glob is going to have a lot of heat with your hardener. once its built up, sand it into shape, slap some body filler on it to make it smooth, then either primer and paint or gelcoat the area to make it pretty.

You would? Well you should come on down then. And bring your polishing stuff while you at it lol. Your recommendation was also suggested to me earlier by a friend that does glass work but "doesn't have the time to help" so that was how he explained to me how to repair it but without the details

« **Reply #7 on:** February 03, 2013, 12:18:04 AM »

Quote from: SoCalPSD on February 02, 2013, 11:47:45 PM

You would? Well you should come on down then. And bring your polishing stuff while you at it lol. Your recommendation was also suggested to me earlier by a friend that does glass work but "doesn't have the time to help" so that was how he explained to me how to repair it but without the details

Well, go figure. Grind it out further, feather it well, get at it.

As far as ME doing it? Bring the boat here and I'll do it in a heartbeat. My son might come over and do it, but that's between you and him, he turns 18 this week, I can no longer speak or enslave him...........

But seriously, get some fiberglass, a little roving and some mat, grind it out and feather the edges. Clean it good with Acetone or MEK (My preference) Then roll large strips of fiberglass with resin on a piece of cardboard (Longer and wider than the hole) then stick one up there before it kicks and roll it into the sides, front and back and make sure it don't sag. Then grind that and start smaller to bigger, to fill the hole. Next strip a little larger, same thing, and so on and so on. I've only done it on a Biesemeyer, and that took 7 layers. I Imagine most non-race hulls are more than that.

Ray

« **Reply #8 on:** February 03, 2013, 05:38:15 AM »

Im not a fiberglass dude but have been researching how to do my hull repairs n I see almost everyone do the whole feathering out n clean but when they fill it ive seen then lay a peice of clear plastic wrap n trace the outer most shape then make inner shapes about a quarter inch smaller to the center that should give you how many layers u will need then use that to cut ur glass sizes then when laying those start with the biggest n work n fill to the smallest then sand prime n paint you tube has alot of vids on thishope this helps

« **Reply #9 on:** February 03, 2013, 08:37:54 AM »

Quote from: IRRebel on February 03, 2013, 12:18:04 AM

Well, go figure. Grind it out further, feather it well, get at it.

As far as ME doing it? Bring the boat here and I'll do it in a heartbeat. My son might come over and do it, but that's between you and him, he turns 18 this week, I can no longer speak or enslave him...........

But seriously, get some fiberglass, a little roving and some mat, grind it out and feather the edges. Clean it good with Acetone or MEK (My preference) Then roll large strips of fiberglass with resin on a piece of cardboard (Longer and wider than the hole) then stick one up there before it kicks and roll it into the sides, front and back and make sure it don't sag. Then grind that and start smaller to bigger, to fill the hole. Next strip a little larger, same thing, and so on and so on. I've only done it on a Biesemeyer, and that took 7 layers. I Imagine most non-race hulls are more than that.

Ray

My comment was in response to kaotyk

« **Reply #10 on:** February 03, 2013, 09:25:05 AM »

Quote from: SoCalPSD on February 03, 2013, 08:37:54 AM

My comment was in response to kaotyk

haha i got my own stuff to do. welcome to boating. you knew there was a giant bogger on the botom of the boat when you bought that hull. now its time to get down to business and fix it. and post lots of pictures.

« **Reply #11 on:** February 03, 2013, 09:42:29 AM »

Wow!
I agree, that repair really should be done from the inside. However, the problem with the Konas is that the hulls were finnished on the inside in a way that hides access to the strakes from the inside and it looks like yours is the same. Mine was totally smooth on the inside. It actually had a 1/4" ply core in the floor and a few layers of glass over on top of that.
My theory here, reason the strake is hollow, is that they probobly just laid straight over the strakes on the inside ,with the core, with out filling them in.
You can see in the pic of mine, after I stripped the stringers out, how smooth the interior finnish was. I did not do any glass work to the inside except where the intake hole was.
In order to repair from the inside you would have to grind out all the glass and posibly the wood core to access the stringers.

« **Reply #12 on:** February 04, 2013, 08:18:08 AM »

So im thinking I might drill 3 small holes through the damaged strake in the form of a triangle so im able to cut out a small piece of the backer wood from the inside of the hull with my dremel. That way I have a 2 inch wide by 4 in long hole in the hull.....crazy right but this way im able to access the strake from the inside. Lay down a few layers of woven mat and chop mat to form it from.the inside then either stick the piece of wood back in and put a few layers over that and that way I still have the finished look inside the hull. Then I can flip it and build it up from the bottom with a few layers of chop mat shape it and touch up the paint. Sound good? I just kinda form this idea after watching all these videos on fiberglass repair. Or am I better off not cutting all the way through to patch it and just flip it and build it up from there?

Fat fingered from the phone- Corey

« **Reply #13 on:** February 04, 2013, 08:44:52 AM »

So basically the lightly shaded area inside the dashes is the damaged area, the dark shaded areas are where the glass is completely gone, and the large circles are where I would drill through to know where I need to cut on the inside and the small dots are where I would cut out the wood on the inside. This way I could clean out and grind on the glass from the inside and lay it on through there then put the piece of backing wood I cut out back in and glass over it like it is now.

Fat fingered from the phone- Corey

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