That would be a fairly difficult hull to convert, the splashwell is the hard part... It will need to have stringers installed.... I would find a different boat.






GT

Look at what you will have to do to the splashwell.... That will tell you what you need to know.

You can find someone with a drill fixture for the pump and the holes are not a really big deal. You will need to change the rear of the deck to finish off the transom. You will need to reconfigure the interior, or eliminate the rear seat all together.

The trailer will need to be adjusted for the added transom weight, otherwise it will be too tongue light to tow.

None of the original electrical system will work, it will need to be completely rewired.

You will need all controls replaced, including the steering cable (too short) and foot throttle.

Is it worth dong? Not to me.... If you have a vested interest in this hull, then yes, maybe it is worth it to retain the sentimental value.

Just keep in mind, you will have a seventies jet boat and you will not have any sweat equity available to fall back on. It will be a $3500 boat if the conversion comes out right.

Not trying to be a Debbie Downer, just trying to inform you of the huge endeavor you are about to embark on can get overwhelming very fast.

GT

The pictures are perfect.

Looks like a pretty good shape.  Time to start taking some measurements and making some decisions.  The pump drives the location of the engine.

Could you take a measurement along the keel from the transom?  Does the sharp V end about 30" forward of the transom?  If the intake opening protrudes into the sharp V, you will definitely need to laminate some glass inside to facilitate blending the transition between the fiberglass keel and the intake opening.  I find the nicest installs work out best if I build up a flat in front of the intake cutout and blend it forward into the keel.

While you are in a laminating mood, you will want to build up a flat spot, between the intake cutout and the transom.  Most likely you will need to grind the bottom in this area to clear a ride plate.  It would be a good idea to machine your intake for a shoe and ride plate if it isn't already done.

I would try to set the intake so the keel cutout is 1" forward of the inside surface of the transom fiberglass.  The wood will need to be trimmed and sealed for clearance.  Try to make the hole in the transom as small as possible.

When you cut the hole in the keel, measure from the lifting strakes so the hole is as straight and centered as possible.

What type of mounting system will you use?  Do you have a bare block to use for setup?  What engine?

Good luck,

Joe

Man I have a 1970 Tahiti hull that I cut the pump out of that might be easier to glass back in it's a full stringer. Needs gauges,interior,paint,and a trailer. I have a title for it if you want it it's yours


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I'm by Joshua tree it would need quite a bit of work. But it yours if you want it


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I don't when I'll get down there it's at my dads but it ain't pretty and will need some work


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