floor removal

« **on:** April 26, 2008, 07:44:21 PM »

i need some help from the gurus out there that have replaced the floor in their boat, what is the correct way to remove the old floor, i started jigsawing it out but ran into cross braces and figured i better stop and ask for help before i ruin something or make even more work for myself. here are some pics of what i am working with. thanks in advance for the help guys

« **Reply #1 on:** April 26, 2008, 08:25:29 PM »

Hey Fork.. I know just how you feel. I just went to replace the seat mounts in my hull and I had to pull back the carpet to get it out of the way of the fiberglass I'm getting ready to do, and when I did I found a hole in the left stringer, drilled half way through about 3.5" in diam. and the rest of the way through was about 1.25". The center section of the floor has wood and someone got the bright idea it needed drain holes, no problem except, the holes were about 3/8" and filled with carpet glue.

« **Reply #2 on:** April 26, 2008, 08:28:37 PM »

boy get ready for the stink, $:-\$ when you cut that floor they may be 40 gallons of water under there.
anyway get a grinder the bigger the better and start grinding at the seam until you can get under the wood with a pry bar, then keep going along the edge of the wood. remember its fiberglass and as long as you dont put a hold in it with the grinder it can be fixed.

« **Reply #3 on:** April 26, 2008, 08:30:34 PM »

No fair, he types faster.

... and apprently drives/races faster too.

I've replaced a floor but it was nothing like this floor... I see the open bow part of the hull plays a roll in the floor as well... If it were mine I'd cut out the floor like you're doing, ignore the braces, and pry the cut floor up with a pry bar. At least then you could look at it really well and go from there.

« **Reply #4 on:** April 26, 2008, 08:31:37 PM »

Ralph, it seems to me that in a post a while back you CUT a big hole in your boat. Or was that someone else and Pops came to the rescue and did one FASDAMNTASTIC job of fixing it.

« **Reply #5 on:** April 26, 2008, 08:40:50 PM »

Here is my walkthru. It was my 1st attempt so I'm no guru, but other than dont install the new floor with the boat on the trailer, I think I did a good job.

http://www.socaljetboats.com/index.php?topic=1805.0

« **Reply #6 on:** April 26, 2008, 08:43:32 PM »

I remember seeing this. I thought it was the stringers you don't want the boat on the trailer for installation. My floor and the rest is going to wait until fall.

« **Reply #7 on:** April 26, 2008, 08:56:10 PM »

The floor will flex on the trailer if the bunks are not perfect. I glassed my new floor down and got a slight wave in the bottom when it came off the trailer.

« **Reply #8 on:** April 26, 2008, 11:25:20 PM »

Quote from: Ralph Brunt on April 26, 2008, 08:28:37 PM

boy get ready for the stink, $:-\$ when you cut that floor they may be 40 gallons of water under there.

yes sir there is a shitload of water in there, there was no drain hole cut in the rear brace. so water got trapped after the crack happened, plus my pressure washing the shit out of it today did not help, i got it home afterwards and jacked the nose to the sky so the motor are could drain and damn water started coming out the holes that used to hold the interior in , so i knew i was in for it then, cut a hole just to see and yep lots of water, i am going to try to attack it some more tomorrow. i would like the floor at least out asap

« **Reply #9 on:** April 27, 2008, 06:06:28 AM »

Take a skill saw right up the center , cut it and then you just have to peel back the wood on both sides. Get you a grinder and clean it all up......

Really not a big deal , but being the first it is always the scariest

Dont wanna fug nothin up

And wear a mask , there is nasty shit in there!!!!!
2sav

« **Reply #10 on:** April 27, 2008, 06:08:57 AM »

Quote from: 2savage4you on April 27, 2008, 06:06:28 AM

And wear a mask , there is nasty shit in there!!!!!
2sav

Not to mention the fiberglass and resin that's going to become dust and breathable.

« **Reply #11 on:** April 27, 2008, 08:51:29 AM »

Quote from: 2savage4you on April 27, 2008, 06:06:28 AM

Take a skill saw right up the center , cut it and then you just have to peel back the wood on both sides. Get you a grinder and clean it all up......

Really not a big deal , but being the first it is always the scariest Dont wanna fug nothin up

And wear a mask , there is nasty shit in there!!!!!
2sav

Thats how I did mine too , just set the blade depth the same as the thickness of the floor so you dont cut into the cross braces or into the hull.

I cut across the floor so it came up in small pieces

http://www.socaljetboats.com/index.php?topic=1284.msg20609#msg20609

« **Reply #12 on:** April 27, 2008, 08:57:20 AM »

Propless... Looking back at your thread, I see you have about as much room to work as I do.

« **Reply #13 on:** April 27, 2008, 09:29:56 AM »

Quote from: GAWnCA on April 27, 2008, 08:57:20 AM

Propless... Looking back at your thread, I see you have about as much room to work as I do.

LOL , Yea and now there are three boats here

One in the garage and two on the side of the house (Oh yea, plus the one I stored at my moms house

). Help I'm a boataholic !!!

Back to the floor, FORKEDUP are you going to try to replace the entire floor or just the bad part ? I only ask because it looks like it would be hard to do the whole thing because of the suport legs for the dash. $:-\$

« **Reply #14 on:** April 27, 2008, 03:16:53 PM »

i am going to go all the way to the support legs and see what the wood looks like there, i have not felt any soft sports up there but who knows, the wood in the back is wet in the middle, so i figure just watch that as i get to the front and see what it looks like.

« **Reply #15 on:** April 27, 2008, 03:34:01 PM »

I used a 4.5 inch grinder with thjn blade 'cutoff wheel' and cut the glass at the edges then cut center then pryed the pieces up worked well use shop vac to clean up as you go or mess gets to big Dave

« **Reply #16 on:** April 27, 2008, 03:38:07 PM »

Quote from: 702fairlanedave on April 27, 2008, 03:34:01 PM

I used a 4.5 inch grinder with thjn blade 'cutoff wheel' and cut the glass at the edges then cut center then pryed the pieces up worked well use shop vac to clean up as you go or mess gets to big Dave

Hey and I just bought a cheapy at Harbor Freight. But, the wife is wanting things done around the house now so if I want to run the boat I have to start taking care of that list (that keeps growing).

« **Reply #17 on:** May 01, 2008, 09:28:54 PM »

i win.... floors out, pics in moneypit project thread, its nasty under there

« **Reply #18 on:** May 05, 2008, 02:01:36 PM »

I've been thinking... OH OH!! But, why couldn't you run stringer rails just below the new floor plywood and then screw the flooring plywood down. The maybe once a year pull the flooring out and sop up the water that hasn't drained out and stop the rotting before it has a chance to start. Coat the flooring plywood with resin and glass cloth for a smoother finish, carpet over that and then run the screws through into to stringer strips. You could make then out of angle aluminum.

« **Reply #19 on:** May 05, 2008, 04:33:40 PM »

i don't think it is usually a problem, but whoever did this floor the last time did not have any drain holes for water to exit from under the floor, then the fiberglass ontop of the floor cracked and one thing led to another, eventually filling the underfloor with water, it looked like they planned on leaving a gap under the rear floor support at the stringers/engine box but then when glassing it, they covered it up. i ended up cutting the floor out almost all the way through the open bow, had some good wood then all of a sudden shit wood, so i just kept cuttin.

« **Reply #20 on:** May 05, 2008, 05:07:16 PM »

Hey greg that is what I kinda did. The floor was rotted where the gas pedal was, had to remount it 3 or 4 times because the screws kept coming out

The final straw was when I had the back bench seat out to work on the engine and my foot went through where the seat was

that hurt. Anyhow what I did was take a skillsaw and run it along the stringers leaving about 2 inches of the oringinal floor that was in good shape along the stringers. measured and cut and resined the new floor and screwd it down with SS screws to the 2 inch strips along the stringers. Worked great for me and is strong as heck Just my 02 Mark

« **Reply #21 on:** May 05, 2008, 05:11:37 PM »

Quote from: 76NORDIC on May 05, 2008, 05:07:16 PM

Hey greg that is what I kinda did. The floor was rotted where the gas pedal was, had to remount it 3 or 4 times because the screws kept coming out The final straw was when I had the back bench seat out to work on the engine and my foot went through where the seat was that hurt. Anyhow what I did was take a skillsaw and run it along the stringers leaving about 2 inches of the oringinal floor that was in good shape along the stringers. measured and cut and resined the new floor and screwd it down with SS screws to the 2 inch strips along the stringers. Worked great for me and is strong as heck Just my 02 Mark

Mark, That's what I think I'm going to do when I replace mine. Besides, would make for a nice place to run all your wiring to the dash and out of sight. You can even carpet over that. Would make it nice to make sure water doesn't have a chance to stand. Greg

« **Reply #22 on:** May 05, 2008, 05:20:36 PM »

Exactly what I did was carpet over it. i didnt run the wires under tho. It also had 2 drain holes in the back near the engine, but they were about half an inch above the bottom of the hull, so alot of water was stcuk in there. Reamed them out flush to the hull and now im good to go. Sure ended up alot easier to do than I thot it would Mark

« **Reply #23 on:** May 05, 2008, 05:28:48 PM »

Well, That's all get taken care of when I do a JORK thing to my hull.

FORKEDUP

GAWnCA

Ralph Brunt

hotrod56cars

GAWnCA

The Chaz

GAWnCA

The Chaz

FORKEDUP

2savage4you

GAWnCA

propless

GAWnCA

propless

FORKEDUP

702fairlanedave

GAWnCA

FORKEDUP

GAWnCA

FORKEDUP

76NORDIC

GAWnCA

76NORDIC

GAWnCA