What has to be done to covert from a jc bowl to a jg bowl so I can install a drop snoot?

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Ya I just put a early dominator bowl on my JC pump. Taking the transom adapter of was a PAIN IN THE ASS

When I changed mine I left the transom adapter on.


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Measure always before a bowl swap. You never know if theres been mods. Also if you can add a stuffer nows the time if you have room

school me mommy I'm a newbie to jets but I've been turning wrenches 30 + years

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Just want to make sure of the clearance from pump to end of impeller / outer bowl in to inner. If you have enough room add the stuffer...I went from a C to a modified split C adding stuffer and got bout 15+ thousands clearance. Not sure on my Aggressor bowl...Bostick did my entire pump last season machining the bowl to fit stuffer. The bowl by itself was dead even with a gasket before it went to him. The trans adapter fit my early aggressor bowl without any mods. You can machine the end of bowl to fit berk trans if you go amt or dom.

your making me think I should take the bowl to someone that knows what there doing rather than buying a rebuild kit and throwing it together

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rush1,

What are you trying to achieve?

Do you just want to put a split bowl on?

Do you have a split bowl and the adapter or droop?

Is your pump in good shape?

Swapping bowls is easy, I have dome it in boat lanch parking lots, for that matter, I have swapped impeller in parking lots.

This job of swapping the bowl should not take longer than three hours for a newbie. I was doing them in about an hour. Double drilled, allen bowl bolts, twin steering.

The process is simple, if the TA has silicone on the seam, grab a 2' long piece of piano wire and get a couple of pieces of dowling (I use 1") and make a cutting tool, run the piano wire through the sealant having 1/2 inside the hull and the other 1/2 outside the hull, saw the sealant loose from the bowl.

Remove the steering and gate linkage, remove the bowl bolts, grab 2- 12" long pieces of 1/2" threaded rod  and screw them into the bowl bolt holes at 3 and 9 o'clock and pry the bowl out of the TA.

Clean everything up, ensure the shaft end is in ok shape and chamfered smooth, install the new bowl bearings and seal, glue the new gasket to the bowl with either High Tack or contact cement and reinstall the new bowl with a new dividing line O-ring (in all honesty, I do not use the O-ring, I install a length of piano wire around the bowl with fine line masking tape and leave it sticking out the bottom for removing later) torque the bowl down using lug nut technique and seal it up with a nice smooth bead of silicone or marine caulking.

An ice cube rubbed on your finger will keep the silicone from sticking to you and give you a pro finish...


Once the sealant dries, go boating and enjoy your efforts. The only time I pull the TA is when the pump needs to come out. Those things can be a somebitch if a gasket was not used.....

As for the stuffer, Play-dough is your friend. I actually use plumbers putty and Saran wrap....


Good hunting.

GT

rush1,

What are you trying to achieve?

Do you just want to put a split bowl on?

Do you have a split bowl and the adapter or droop?

Is your pump in good shape?

Swapping bowls is easy, I have dome it in boat lanch parking lots, for that matter, I have swapped impeller in parking lots.

This job of swapping the bowl should not take longer than three hours for a newbie. I was doing them in about an hour. Double drilled, allen bowl bolts, twin steering.

The process is simple, if the TA has silicone on the seam, grab a 2' long piece of piano wire and get a couple of pieces of dowling (I use 1") and make a cutting tool, run the piano wire through the sealant having 1/2 inside the hull and the other 1/2 outside the hull, saw the sealant loose from the bowl.

Remove the steering and gate linkage, remove the bowl bolts, grab 2- 12" long pieces of 1/2" threaded rod  and screw them into the bowl bolt holes at 3 and 9 o'clock and pry the bowl out of the TA.

Clean everything up, ensure the shaft end is in ok shape and chamfered smooth, install the new bowl bearings and seal, glue the new gasket to the bowl with either High Tack or contact cement and reinstall the new bowl with a new dividing line O-ring (in all honesty, I do not use the O-ring, I install a length of piano wire around the bowl with fine line masking tape and leave it sticking out the bottom for removing later) torque the bowl down using lug nut technique and seal it up with a nice smooth bead of silicone or marine caulking.

An ice cube rubbed on your finger will keep the silicone from sticking to you and give you a pro finish...


Once the sealant dries, go boating and enjoy your efforts. The only time I pull the TA is when the pump needs to come out. Those things can be a somebitch if a gasket was not used.....

As for the stuffer, Play-dough is your friend. I actually use plumbers putty and Saran wrap....


Good hunting.

GT

here's a picture of the bowl it should be easy I want to put a g bowl on so I can put a droop on and get a little more of the boat out of the water

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here's a picture of the bowl it should be easy I want to put a g bowl on so I can put a droop on and get a little more of the boat out of the water

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Your NOT putting a droop on that pump....... Sorry.

Your NOT putting a droop on that pump....... Sorry.

I know that's why I want to change the bowl so are you saying I can't put a g bowl on this pump it's a jc shouldn't I be able to just switch the bowl and install a droop on it ?

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I know that's why I want to change the bowl so are you saying I can't put a g bowl on this pump it's a jc shouldn't I be able to just switch the bowl and install a droop on it ?

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Looks like a JE to me, Maybe I am wrong. But doubt it seriously. Hard to tell from the small picture I can get.

Like jets said the play dough is real easy.. put it on the impeller back shoulder and slide the bowl on...then take bowl off and measure the thickness of play dough. This will give you the info needed for bowl to clear and thickness for stuffer to clear. Measure without the gasket. The gasket new will measure bout .027-.029 and once crushed under.020... I used a caliper off pump to end of impeller then out egde of bowl to inner with same results. Might have to use a straight egde while measuring but just subtract the thickness of it.

I had better results with a straight snoot 4 degree pin... At one time I had a mini, full, straight and wedges to test....Every boat will handle different.

The reverse gate linkage and the steering on that deal are "low mounted" meaning the droop will instantly cause you to convert everything you have to "high mount" controls, new shift cable, a steering tube bulkhead adapter, plugging the holes in the transom section, different linkages for all... Major MOFO.

Buy a Place Diverter and forget about a bowl swap. A hydraulic one would be a much cleaner install for that boat.

I'm saving your life here... 
GT

Yeah that's an old picture I already have a hydraulic place diverter on it . So what I'm hearing is I need to change the whole pump to. A jg pump and then put a droop on that , my question is , is the juice worth the squeeze?

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