I believe you could do the bowl and regular nozzle (retains same pin location as C) with a wedge and have about what you have now except a tad more roost.

Yeah that's an old picture I already have a hydraulic place diverter on it . So what I'm hearing is I need to change the whole pump to. A jg pump and then put a droop on that , my question is , is the juice worth the squeeze?

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You should be hearing "you're screwed".... 

You cannot simply convert that to a JG. There is an insert molded into the hull and the pump is bolted to that, not a separate intake like a JG or JC. I can be done, but not a matter of swapping the bowl, not by a long shot. I estimate it would take at least $1000 in materials to convert it, less bowl.

I would strongly recommend you keep it the way it is.

You should be hearing "you're screwed".... 

You cannot simply convert that to a JG. There is an insert molded into the hull and the pump is bolted to that, not a separate intake like a JG or JC. I can be done, but not a matter of swapping the bowl, not by a long shot. I estimate it would take at least $1000 in materials to convert it, less bowl.

I would strongly recommend you keep it the way it is.

lol yep I heard you loud and clear I just didn't want to lol

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This is what you would have to do....

(Attachment Link)

that's awesome if this boat was something totally cool I would consider it but I know the name commander alone kills it even though it's a pretty cool boat that I got a great deal on ,it is what it is , besides my wife wants me to reupholstere it  first but I really appreciate your input

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But if he just did the bowl, nozzle and wedge it would work right?

I'm thinking the linkage issues would be problematic enough to say it would not be worth the trouble.

Add to that the "C" bowl is superior in a few different ways.

GT

I'm all ears here GT, could you list the benefits? Granted I'll run my JC forever... I'd just like to learn


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For starters the JC has straighter,longer and thinner vanes, This has the benefit of moving more water at the same outlet pressure. Some say it makes the water straighter, but that has been proven to be a bunch of BS.

Add to that the fact that there is no seam or parting line in the outlet, it is all one smooth piece. Great care needs to be taken to get a JG that smooth, the transition is never really what I would call perfect. In the world of moving mass quantities of water, smooth and invisible is good.

There is also the fact that being as it is all one part, breakage is seldom an issue. These things are silly strong.

Lastly, it removes the mechanical aspect of the nozzle and eliminates a gasket that can be prone to blowout... Never ever a bad thing.

Other than that, the only thing you cannot do with a C bowl is add toys, bells, whistles, wedges and oh yeah, droops.

rush1, if you are trying to get the boat to fly better, put it on a diet and move as much weight rearward as you can, batteries, fuel tanks, water toys, anchors, ice chests etc.

With the Diverter, you should be able to see some respectable gains. 

GT

I too have a jc pump that I recently put a diverter on and have been thinking about swapping to a split bowl. Mostly to test out different rides, I feel like I'm still riding a little wet in my 20.5 mini day Southwind.

Can you explain this to me...
In my mind you want the ass out if the water more, so if in reality you are riding to "wet" wouldn't you want to balance or load the front? Wouldn't this cause the ass to lighten and raise?


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Simple physics. Maybe hydrodynamics...

If the center of gravity (COG) is say, forward of the physical center of the hull, the forward thrust is going to automatically try to lift that dead weight out of the water, especially with a trim device like a Place. So basically you are already burying the rear of the boat to try and lift the bow.

Now center it right at the physical center. What happened? You are having to lift less weight, using less upward [sorry] downward thrust on the trim device to accomplish the same thing, right?

Now move the COG to the extreme aft, what just happened?, the bow will be the light end while under way, raising the bow without as much input from the trim device, increasing the amount of air you can pack under the lifting strakes and making the hull act "lighter". In turn, this typically nets more speed simply because of the the fact that there is less wetted boat in contact with the water. It "almost" serves the same purpose as setting the pump back (almost).

Try it... What have you got to lose? The two group 27 batteries in the race boat were mounted to a bracket welded to the transom and the fuel tank was on the bottom of the hull right in front of the engine. With a 600 HP 468 big block, 60 gallons of pump gas and two 200 pound bad asses, the boat did a best upriver speed of just a tick under 90 MPH. This was in the early 90's with a shoe string budget.

GT

Simple physics. Maybe hydrodynamics...

If the center of gravity (COG) is say, forward of the physical center of the hull, the forward thrust is going to automatically try to lift that dead weight out of the water, especially with a trim device like a Place. So basically you are already burying the rear of the boat to try and lift the bow.

Now center it right at the physical center. What happened? You are having to lift less weight, using less upward [sorry] downward thrust on the trim device to accomplish the same thing, right?

Now move the COG to the extreme aft, what just happened?, the bow will be the light end while under way, raising the bow without as much input from the trim device, increasing the amount of air you can pack under the lifting strakes and making the hull act "lighter". In turn, this typically nets more speed simply because of the the fact that there is less wetted boat in contact with the water. It "almost" serves the same purpose as setting the pump back (almost).

Try it... What have you got to lose? The two group 27 batteries in the race boat were mounted to a bracket welded to the transom and the fuel tank was on the bottom of the hull right in front of the engine. With a 600 HP 468 big block, 60 gallons of pump gas and two 200 pound bad asses, the boat did a best upriver speed of just a tick under 90 MPH. This was in the early 90's with a shoe string budget.

GT

I see I see, that does make a lot more since. I'm now very glad I didn't get a bow tank! Haha


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For starters the JC has straighter,longer and thinner vanes, This has the benefit of moving more water at the same outlet pressure. Some say it makes the water straighter, but that has been proven to be a bunch of BS.

Add to that the fact that there is no seam or parting line in the outlet, it is all one smooth piece. Great care needs to be taken to get a JG that smooth, the transition is never really what I would call perfect. In the world of moving mass quantities of water, smooth and invisible is good.

There is also the fact that being as it is all one part, breakage is seldom an issue. These things are silly strong.

Lastly, it removes the mechanical aspect of the nozzle and eliminates a gasket that can be prone to blowout... Never ever a bad thing.

Other than that, the only thing you cannot do with a C bowl is add toys, bells, whistles, wedges and oh yeah, droops.

rush1, if you are trying to get the boat to fly better, put it on a diet and move as much weight rearward as you can, batteries, fuel tanks, water toys, anchors, ice chests etc.

With the Diverter, you should be able to see some respectable gains. 

GT

Yeah it's a 21' open bow 454 325 hp BBC it does 53 mph on gps I was just looking to get a little more speed out of the hull without going into the engine,  the engine is on logs, hei distributor and a holley 3310 on an edelbrock manifold .I guess I'll change the exhaust and a mild cam for a couple of mph.

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