I have just the opposite, Droop and i want to go to a snoot but testing is involved first because these are tuning tools.. hell i might find im better with a snoot or i might find out im better with a droop or i might find out im better without either of em


Start testing to find out, maybe you can borrow a droop from a friend.

Read throught this thread
http://www.performanceboats.com/html/forums/showthread.php?t=39218&highlight=Nozzle+Water

I cant help but think that using a straight snoot the jet stream isnt all the way in the water opposed to where it would be with a droop.

Has nothing to do with it. At higher speeds, the nozzles are completely out of the water.

As has been suggested, borrow a droop and do some testing.

[quote
Has nothing to do with it. At higher speeds, the nozzles are completely out of the water.

Even with a droop there completely out of the water?

2s4y
Thanks for the link good reading.

Seams to me (from what I read) droops are only good for bow lift. Wouldn't you get the same effect with a diverter?

The best way to get true bow lift is with a Droop Snoot, the "second best" way is with a Diverter or other trim device...

Once the water leaves the nozzle, all work is done, so it really does not make major differences if the nozzl is "in the water" or not, but more where the thrust pressure is being applied to the hull.

Before I start a huge pissing match over the diverter deal, let me qualify that. The diverter does not change the thrust level, but changes the thrust angle...totally different animal.

What we have learned from playing with literally any and all add ons to a Berkeley 12JG on a 19' aluminum vee hull is this...

A droop adds bow lift in all areas of speed including out of the hole and WOT. When a Diverter is added to the same Droop, a large level of "adjustability" is added making the boat easier to drive and "tune". When wedges are added for up or down angle, you can actually trim out to a nuetral point, makeing adjustments more finite...

The opposite of the droop is a standard nozzle, with or without an extension, this "raises" the thrust height and keeps the bow planted pretty well (depending on the hull of course) and also makes the boat turn better as a rule. With the addition of a Diverter (or other trim device) will give a "false" bow lift by putting downward pressure on the transome (makes it act ass heavy)... IMHO this eats up valuable forward thrust and HP and can lead to ill handling.

Keep in mind I have never seen two boats work with the same set up.

This thread could literally go on for an eternity and there will be literally thousands of different opinions, I am just giving you what I have learned by working closely with a boat builder and writing down everything we saw..(disclaimer-18 years ago)

GT

 bwurst1,  Is your Syndicate a tunnel hull ?  If so you might want to get a hold of watergun4u over on Performance Boats.  He has been trying different setups on his Syndicate and might be able to give some helpful advice too.  Hes usually in the Mendota slough thread  .   http://www.performanceboats.com/html/forums/showthread.php?t=44357

Propless,
No its not a tunnel, unfortunately . I am however looking for a project tunnel.   

just as i and gt said, it really depends on your boat.  the setup you have sounds good, but there is allot going on back there...sometimes less is more.  i would go to the lake with some tools and just stat taking things off or changing stuff.  as for the droop question, its all a matter of putting the jetstream where the boat wants it.  read how the boat is running.  what size boat do you have...

It's a trial and error deal for sure. Gt or someone once put up a little sketch on here that kinda showed how a droop should work in theory. By lowering the thrust line, it allows you to run more pin angle and ....oh man I'm over my head here. lol  In theory it will lift the entire boat....as opposed to a straight snoot.

Good info 

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