Junk berk split bowl?

« **on:** April 19, 2016, 06:12:53 AM »

Rebuilding this pump and found this out
now bowl is hitting new impeller..... What do I do so the guy I'm rebuilding the pump for doesn't have a bunch of bastered stuff lol .....
I've never seen a .250 removed from bowl

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« **Reply #1 on:** April 19, 2016, 06:51:14 AM »

How forward is the impeller in the ring?

Is there room to go forward?

How close does the bowl come to clearing the impeller?

What impeller? What else are you seeing that's odd?

GT

« **Reply #2 on:** April 19, 2016, 06:59:47 AM »

Quote from: GT Jets on April 19, 2016, 06:51:14 AM

How forward is the impeller in the ring?

Is there room to go forward?

How close does the bowl come to clearing the impeller?

What impeller? What else are you seeing that's odd?

GT

I need .080 to have bowl go on and that would leave me with .020 between Impeller and bowl .

The gap from impeller to suction housing is .020 same on the back too

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« **Reply #3 on:** April 19, 2016, 07:02:59 AM »

Why didn't they make a stuffer plate instead of cutting bowl lol

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« **Reply #4 on:** April 19, 2016, 07:08:00 AM »

Quote from: 69kona on April 19, 2016, 07:02:59 AM

Why didn't they make a stuffer plate instead of cutting bowl lol

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The theory is to build bowl pressure quicker.

Not sure it ever worked the way it was thought to.

Do you have a picture of the inlet side of the bowl?

You may have enough meat in the center of the stator to machine it for the needed clearance.

Otherwise bowl shims or a new bowl.

Bowl shims are not ideal. If you go that route, you will need to have it o-ringed.

JMO

GT

« **Reply #5 on:** April 19, 2016, 07:12:36 AM »

Gt I have a lathe in the garage ... machinist

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« **Reply #6 on:** April 19, 2016, 07:13:28 AM »

I'm not lol but I can cut stator

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« **Reply #7 on:** April 19, 2016, 07:17:22 AM »

Pushed reply lol ... Was gonna say machinist I'm not but I seem to get shit pretty close ... So I will cut stator in the bowl thanks GT

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« **Reply #8 on:** April 19, 2016, 08:35:07 PM »

What is the front clearance of the impeller to the suction housing? Does it have a shouldered wear ring?
Would setting the impeller front/rear clearance to .035 help the situation?

It's much easier to face the shaft than what you are trying with cutting that bowl on a lathe, and it will launch a lot harder.

« **Reply #9 on:** April 19, 2016, 10:33:40 PM »

Quote from: Flusher on April 19, 2016, 08:35:07 PM

What is the front clearance of the impeller to the suction housing? Does it have a shouldered wear ring?
Would setting the impeller front/rear clearance to .035 help the situation?

It's much easier to face the shaft than what you are trying with cutting that bowl on a lathe, and it will launch a lot harder.

Just to clarify, I am not saying to modify the impeller dimensions, just shift it forward to tighten the clearance

« **Reply #10 on:** April 19, 2016, 10:53:21 PM »

Quote from: Flusher on April 19, 2016, 08:35:07 PM

What is the front clearance of the impeller to the suction housing? Does it have a shouldered wear ring?
Would setting the impeller front/rear clearance to .035 help the situation?

It's much easier to face the shaft than what you are trying with cutting that bowl on a lathe, and it will launch a lot harder.

I almost 100% agree with this.

My thinking is that by cutting the stator face, you are not permanently effecting any other aspect of the pump. Only modifying something to make it usable that would otherwise be useless. Worst case, you need a bowl.

I do like the way you think though.

Always a pleasure sir.

GT

« **Reply #11 on:** April 19, 2016, 11:05:58 PM »

I bought a bowl off craigslist that was milled down and my impeller hit too which caused it not to spin. Clearance issues were on the bowl side of the impeller. This is what I was told to do. We took a little bit off the face and it works perfectly.

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« **Reply #12 on:** April 19, 2016, 11:13:39 PM »

Not that that won't work, it makes it impossible to borrow an impeller for testing and if you need to change it for some reason, you have to machine the new impeller.

« **Reply #13 on:** April 19, 2016, 11:15:54 PM »

Quote from: Derrick on April 19, 2016, 11:05:58 PM

I bought a bowl off craigslist that was milled down and my impeller hit too which caused it not to spin. Clearance issues were on the bowl side of the impeller. This is what I was told to do. We took a little bit off the face and it works perfectly.

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You don't see a labrynth cut wear ring face everyday.

My problem with this solution is you can't just curbside swap the impeller. Not that you will, but you can't.

GT

« **Reply #14 on:** April 19, 2016, 11:22:11 PM »

Quote from: Flusher on April 19, 2016, 11:13:39 PM

Not that that won't work, it makes it impossible to borrow an impeller for testing and if you need to change it for some reason, you have to machine the new impeller.

Agreed . Every impeller that goes in the bowl needs to be machined. Not everyone has access to the tooling to do that. That was our fix last season to the thinking you can just toss a split bowl on your pump theory. The bowl I got was a detailed and milled berk bowl. Just a learning experience. When I build a new pump for my boat it will include a new bowl and I will no longer use that one for this reason.

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« **Reply #15 on:** April 19, 2016, 11:24:41 PM »

Quote from: GT Jets on April 19, 2016, 11:15:54 PM

You don't see a labrynth cut wear ring face everyday.

My problem with this solution is you can't just curbside swap the impeller. Not that you will, but you can't.

GT

This was my first pump tearing it apart and putting it back together. Pump works great and pushes a lot of water but you're correct. There is no impeller swapping allowed for test and tune

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« **Reply #16 on:** April 19, 2016, 11:38:15 PM »

Quote from: Derrick on April 19, 2016, 11:24:41 PM

This was my first pump tearing it apart and putting it back together. Pump works great and pushes a lot of water but you're correct. There is no impeller swapping allowed for test and tune

You can mill the face of the stator to achieve a bowl gasket's thickness for clearance from the impeller. I would take a cleanup cut on the droop surface first, to ensure the surface is as parallel to the suction gasket surface as possible.

If it didn't have any binding, you're good to go.

« **Reply #17 on:** April 19, 2016, 11:42:30 PM »

Quote from: Flusher on April 19, 2016, 11:38:15 PM

You can mill the face of the stator to achieve a bowl gasket's thickness for clearance from the impeller. I would take a cleanup cut on the droop surface first, to ensure the surface is as parallel to the suction gasket surface as possible.

If it didn't have any binding, you're good to go.

Everything worked perfectly after we put it together. Ran it all season with no issues. Pump seemed to work very well

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« **Reply #18 on:** April 20, 2016, 06:38:21 AM »

Hey guys last night chucking the bowl up in lathe. I noticed bolt holes that hold bowl to suction housing are coming through on in side of threaded hole . I can see day light. will it be ok?
Gt got stator cut had to take .068 off
That left me with .025 between bowl and impeller.. So is that good ?

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69kona

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