why cant you get them from the bottom ???They are straight slot stainless bolts and when I went to turn them, they twisted the end of my screwdriver. Thats why I double nutted it from the top and broke two of them loose that way. Tomarrow I will get a screwdriver with a 1/2" blade or grind a chisel down to fit. Maybe one of those impact screwdrivers that you hit with a hammer might do the trick. I put some penitrating oil on today, so hopfully that will help too.
pics
They are straight slot stainless bolts and when I went to turn them, they twisted the end of my screwdriver. Thats why I double nutted it from the top and broke two of them loose that way. Tomarrow I will get a screwdriver with a 1/2" blade or grind a chisel down to fit. Maybe one of those impact screwdrivers that you hit with a hammer might do the trick. I put some penitrating oil on today, so hopfully that will help too.
They are straight slot stainless bolts and when I went to turn them, they twisted the end of my screwdriver. Thats why I double nutted it from the top and broke two of them loose that way. Tomarrow I will get a screwdriver with a 1/2" blade or grind a chisel down to fit. Maybe one of those impact screwdrivers that you hit with a hammer might do the trick. I put some penitrating oil on today, so hopfully that will help too.
Thanks Omar, I went and bought a brand new Bosch 18 volt impact. I had some spade bits and ground one down. It worked great on the first one but I have broke the bit 5 or 6 times on the last one. Grinding it down each time(cant see the #'s anymore). This drill has been broke in hard, i've never seen one smoke so much. I may have to use a combination of heat and the impact tomarrow. All I know is I dont want to drill thru that stainless bolt if I dont have to.I've made my DeWalt screw gun smoke a few times and it never quits :D Gotta love good tools .
Put in some stainless ones w/ antisieze on 'emThese were stainless through bolted w/ stainless locknuts. Good enough for me, but there are some governing bodies who dont agree so we're replacing them w/ grade 8 black oxide bolts that we got from Tom.
Glad to hear you got it taken care of, 3 days on 4 bolts......It wouldnt be fun .
This is what i go through, why cant the easy shit just be easy ???
Put in some stainless ones w/ antisieze on 'em
Negative on the stainless for loader hardware. Typical stainless hardware is not strong enough to be safe in that application.Everyone says that , yet how many boats are out there that were originally rigged with stainless harware are still out there . Not disagreeing with you because mine is/was bolted down with the black oxide and nuts on the back , but amazing how many are like that .
Best choice is the black oxide flathead allens although someone once said they found Grade 8 stainless, but never said where they found it.
It goes without saying that these bolts should be checked regularly---like every trip.
Everyone says that , yet how many boats are out there that were originally rigged with stainless harware are still out there . Not disagreeing with you because mine is/was bolted down with the black oxide and nuts on the back , but amazing how many are like that .
-beerjet-
There's a huge difference between rock grates held in with the original 1/4" stainless screws and the demand a loader puts on the mounting hardware.
I don't know about the circle races but NJBA(and I suspect, IHBA) both require loaders to be through bolted with 5/16" hardware. Stainless is NOT allowed.
20 -30 years ago, speeds/acceleration/HP were lower and as a result the hardware was not being put to anywhere near the stress that it is today.
Yes, I have seen in rules or something somewhere they want black oxide G8 and what happens if the loader starts to come off. Is this a race boat? Better safe then sorry.Not a race boat yet, just my hot rod. Its easier to build to there specs now, than to change it later.