Loader Removal

« **on:** November 30, 2008, 01:07:02 PM »

Whats the best way to remove the loader bolts. I got two out by double nuting it from the top and turning the bolt loose. The other two have pulled the threads out and cant double nut them.

« **Reply #1 on:** November 30, 2008, 02:17:20 PM »

why cant you get them from the bottom

pics

« **Reply #2 on:** November 30, 2008, 06:25:56 PM »

Quote from: Ralph Brunt on November 30, 2008, 02:17:20 PM

why cant you get them from the bottom
pics

They are straight slot stainless bolts and when I went to turn them, they twisted the end of my screwdriver. Thats why I double nutted it from the top and broke two of them loose that way. Tomarrow I will get a screwdriver with a 1/2" blade or grind a chisel down to fit. Maybe one of those impact screwdrivers that you hit with a hammer might do the trick. I put some penitrating oil on today, so hopfully that will help too.

« **Reply #3 on:** November 30, 2008, 06:35:01 PM »

i vote for impact driver and lots of wd-40

« **Reply #4 on:** December 01, 2008, 05:16:29 AM »

drill them out

then through bolt them

« **Reply #5 on:** December 01, 2008, 07:16:31 AM »

Cant you use an EZ out?

« **Reply #6 on:** December 01, 2008, 12:47:52 PM »

OK savages . I was thinkin about Ron and his dilema today at work . Both of us being finish guys we have to McGyver some shit sometimes to be more productive and sometimes just plain get shit done . I have a bit that I use to drive 8" lag screws through hollow metal door jambs and into the wood framing of a building . Most of the time these lag bolts are slotted head bolts and I have broken several of anything you can imagine

Of course I have a picture of it on my phone and can not post it , till later . Stay tuned ! I really hope it works for you Ron .

-beerjet-

« **Reply #7 on:** December 01, 2008, 03:23:16 PM »

Quote from: 76 Bonneville on November 30, 2008, 06:25:56 PM

They are straight slot stainless bolts and when I went to turn them, they twisted the end of my screwdriver. Thats why I double nutted it from the top and broke two of them loose that way. Tomarrow I will get a screwdriver with a 1/2" blade or grind a chisel down to fit. Maybe one of those impact screwdrivers that you hit with a hammer might do the trick. I put some penitrating oil on today, so hopfully that will help too.

Same ting for me

I had broke ones too. Do what Brad sez. Carefully drill out the centers with drill bit no bigger than ID of threads. OK if you are off center a bit. Then EZ out or pry the shell of the screw out. Then drill out the old threads and put in 3/8 or 7/16 through bolts with self lock nuts. Spooge a wad of silicone in the hole as you put the bolts in.

PS there is nothing more exciting than drilling your first hole in the bottom of your boat!!!!

« **Reply #8 on:** December 01, 2008, 03:56:07 PM »

Quote from: 76 Bonneville on November 30, 2008, 06:25:56 PM

They are straight slot stainless bolts and when I went to turn them, they twisted the end of my screwdriver. Thats why I double nutted it from the top and broke two of them loose that way. Tomarrow I will get a screwdriver with a 1/2" blade or grind a chisel down to fit. Maybe one of those impact screwdrivers that you hit with a hammer might do the trick. I put some penitrating oil on today, so hopfully that will help too.

You are on the right track with the penetrating oil and the impact driver. You may also want to try adding a little heat via a basic propane torch. Since it sounds like someone has already done the proper thing by drilling AND tapping the intake, PLEASE resist the temptation to just drill out the screws and then drill through the intake. The fasteners should thread into the intake and be locked in place with the nuts. This is far better than an unthreaded hole in the intake .

When you reassemble, use the black oxide 5/16" flat head allens. Do not use stainless. Put some anti-sieze on the bolts.

« **Reply #9 on:** December 01, 2008, 05:43:40 PM »

Heres the little gem I used .

It is actually refered to as a "Paddle bit" or a "Spade bit". They come in single or mutiple packs at the home depot and they are used to bore a certain diameter hole in wood .

After exhausting all posible options , I took a Paddle bit the width of the bolt head . In my case it was 5/8 of an inch . They go as small as 1/4 of an inch . I cut the tip off and beveled the edges so it would fit real tight in the slot of a screw head . The steel these bits are made of is incredibly strong and I personally ruthlessly torque on mine relentlessly .

The real ticket to getting this to work was the 18volt cordless impact since the hex end on the bit locks in real good and the impact makes quik work of it .

Yeah , I know , it doesnt help you out if you dont have a cordless impact . Home cheapo sells the Ryobi impacts for $60-$100 and the paddle bit is $4-5 or so . The gun it's self has been worth it's weght in gold otherwise and highly recommend buying one anyways for driving screws and has saved my wrists from a jammed screw gun .

-beerjet-

« **Reply #10 on:** December 01, 2008, 06:08:37 PM »

Thanks Omar, I went and bought a brand new Bosch 18 volt impact. I had some spade bits and ground one down. It worked great on the first one but I have broke the bit 5 or 6 times on the last one. Grinding it down each time(cant see the #'s anymore). This drill has been broke in hard, i've never seen one smoke so much. I may have to use a combination of heat and the impact tomarrow. All I know is I dont want to drill thru that stainless bolt if I dont have to.

« **Reply #11 on:** December 01, 2008, 07:47:29 PM »

Ron buy a NEW carbide 3/8 drill , drill the bolt head off and pull the remaining "stud" out after the loaders is out of the way Then drill thruu all to o'size and put that new loader in with black oxide grade 8 bolt with locknuts if room ,otherwise silcone them (threads) and seal over the heads Tom

« **Reply #12 on:** December 02, 2008, 04:27:09 PM »

Quote from: 76 Bonneville on December 01, 2008, 06:08:37 PM

Thanks Omar, I went and bought a brand new Bosch 18 volt impact. I had some spade bits and ground one down. It worked great on the first one but I have broke the bit 5 or 6 times on the last one. Grinding it down each time(cant see the #'s anymore). This drill has been broke in hard, i've never seen one smoke so much. I may have to use a combination of heat and the impact tomarrow. All I know is I dont want to drill thru that stainless bolt if I dont have to.

I've made my DeWalt screw gun smoke a few times and it never quits

Gotta love good tools .

-beerjet-

« **Reply #13 on:** December 02, 2008, 05:01:55 PM »

On my way home today, I pick up one of those $12.00 bits, ready to drill the bolt out. Decided to give the vise grips one last try from the inside and it looked like it was twisting the bolt off. Got back under with the impact and what do you know it started backing out. Drove it back in and cleaned up the threads so that I wouldn't mess up the threads in the intake. Victory at last. It only took 3 days to take out 4 bolts that were good, just to replace them with 4 new bolts that are a little better. Thank you all for your input, I appreciate it, without it I could have streached this out to a week long project. Ron

« **Reply #14 on:** December 02, 2008, 05:50:40 PM »

Put in some stainless ones w/ antisieze on 'em

« **Reply #15 on:** December 02, 2008, 06:19:16 PM »

Quote from: HDriderTH on December 02, 2008, 05:50:40 PM

Put in some stainless ones w/ antisieze on 'em

These were stainless through bolted w/ stainless locknuts. Good enough for me, but there are some governing bodies who dont agree so we're replacing them w/ grade 8 black oxide bolts that we got from Tom.

« **Reply #16 on:** December 02, 2008, 06:33:23 PM »

Glad to hear you got it taken care of, 3 days on 4 bolts......

This is what i go through, why cant the easy shit just be easy

« **Reply #17 on:** December 02, 2008, 07:08:59 PM »

Quote from: 468Bahner on December 02, 2008, 06:33:23 PM

Glad to hear you got it taken care of, 3 days on 4 bolts......

This is what i go through, why cant the easy shit just be easy

It wouldnt be fun .

-beerjet-

« **Reply #18 on:** December 02, 2008, 10:09:34 PM »

Quote from: HDriderTH on December 02, 2008, 05:50:40 PM

Put in some stainless ones w/ antisieze on 'em

Negative on the stainless for loader hardware. Typical stainless hardware is not strong enough to be safe in that application.
Best choice is the black oxide flathead allens although someone once said they found Grade 8 stainless, but never said where they found it.

It goes without saying that these bolts should be checked regularly---like every trip.

« **Reply #19 on:** December 02, 2008, 11:27:39 PM »

Quote from: Oldsquirt on December 02, 2008, 10:09:34 PM

Negative on the stainless for loader hardware. Typical stainless hardware is not strong enough to be safe in that application.
Best choice is the black oxide flathead allens although someone once said they found Grade 8 stainless, but never said where they found it.

It goes without saying that these bolts should be checked regularly---like every trip.

Everyone says that , yet how many boats are out there that were originally rigged with stainless harware are still out there . Not disagreeing with you because mine is/was bolted down with the black oxide and nuts on the back , but amazing how many are like that .

-beerjet-

« **Reply #20 on:** December 02, 2008, 11:32:47 PM »

Quote from: beerjet on December 02, 2008, 11:27:39 PM

Everyone says that , yet how many boats are out there that were originally rigged with stainless harware are still out there . Not disagreeing with you because mine is/was bolted down with the black oxide and nuts on the back , but amazing how many are like that .

-beerjet-

Almost all of 'em

GT

« **Reply #21 on:** December 02, 2008, 11:51:15 PM »

That is just one of the many things that amazes me about how boats were rigged and have survived through out the years . Really just bare bones in there simplist form .

-beerjet-

« **Reply #22 on:** December 03, 2008, 12:04:44 AM »

There's a huge difference between rock grates held in with the original 1/4" stainless screws and the demand a loader puts on the mounting hardware.

I don't know about the circle races but NJBA(and I suspect, IHBA) both require loaders to be through bolted with 5/16" hardware. Stainless is NOT allowed.

20 -30 years ago, speeds/acceleration/HP were lower and as a result the hardware was not being put to anywhere near the stress that it is today.

« **Reply #23 on:** December 03, 2008, 12:29:38 AM »

Quote from: Oldsquirt on December 03, 2008, 12:04:44 AM

There's a huge difference between rock grates held in with the original 1/4" stainless screws and the demand a loader puts on the mounting hardware.

I don't know about the circle races but NJBA(and I suspect, IHBA) both require loaders to be through bolted with 5/16" hardware. Stainless is NOT allowed.

20 -30 years ago, speeds/acceleration/HP were lower and as a result the hardware was not being put to anywhere near the stress that it is today.

The roundy rounders have to have them too . After the first race I could see the end of my loader had worn the paint off in the 2 small spots where the loader touches the intake from the side load it was under . I could only imagine the force it takes hoping in and out of the water .

-beerjet-

« **Reply #24 on:** December 04, 2008, 10:09:25 AM »

Yes, I have seen in rules or something somewhere they want black oxide G8 and what happens if the loader starts to come off. Is this a race boat? Better safe then sorry.

76 Bonneville

Ralph Brunt

76 Bonneville

Ralph Brunt

Brad @ SCJB

flytime

beerjet

Stevecat

Oldsquirt

beerjet

76 Bonneville

jet boat performance

beerjet

76 Bonneville

HDriderTH

76 Bonneville

2savage4you

beerjet

Oldsquirt

beerjet

GT Jets

beerjet

Oldsquirt

beerjet

HDriderTH