Which way to go? Ride Plate (real one) or Place Droop w/ Ride Plate?

« **Reply #25 on:** January 28, 2009, 09:26:54 PM »

OK, so i measured with a 3 ft straight edge starting at the end of the transom toward the bow..

This is weird.. Here's my sweet illustration below

if your looking at that boat from top or bottom w/ the transom on the left side it's as follows. Hope it makes sense!

- rocker- very outer bottom edge
- hook-- side vane
- hook-- middle vane
jet
- hook-- middle vane
- hook-- side vane
- rocker- very outer bottom edge

So, I think overall I have hook instead of rocker? or am I measuring from the wrong place?

« **Reply #26 on:** January 28, 2009, 10:55:29 PM »

Quote from: dm2bfree on January 28, 2009, 09:26:54 PM

OK, so i measured with a 3 ft straight edge starting at the end of the transom toward the bow..

This is weird.. Here's my sweet illustration below if your looking at that boat from top or bottom w/ the transom on the left side it's as follows. Hope it makes sense!

- rocker- very outer bottom edge
- hook-- side vane
- hook-- middle vane
jet
- hook-- middle vane
- hook-- side vane
- rocker- very outer bottom edge

So, I think overall I have hook instead of rocker? or am I measuring from the wrong place?

Measure a bit more forward, like from the transom to say six feet, that will tell more of the story.

GT

« **Reply #27 on:** January 29, 2009, 06:00:53 PM »

If your going to try and go as cheap as possible try checking out hi-tech performance.com. They sell a bolt on ride plate and shoe. No machining in a shoe, its four or five holes to drill in the intake and two in the bowl for the cradle. The whole setup from hi-tech only $236 bucks.

« **Reply #28 on:** January 29, 2009, 08:29:49 PM »

Quote from: GT Jets on January 28, 2009, 10:55:29 PM

Measure a bit more forward, like from the transom to say six feet, that will tell more of the story.

GT

Ok, I measured from 3ft forward from the transom to 6ft (only have a 3ft straight edge). Yep, there is rocker at every point, probably 1/8 to 1/4th inch depending how far from center i measure..

I must really look like a tweaker to the neighbors with a straight edge and flashlight under my boat at night!

« **Reply #29 on:** January 30, 2009, 01:44:25 AM »

Quote from: fast fred on January 29, 2009, 06:00:53 PM

If your going to try and go as cheap as possible try checking out hi-tech performance.com. They sell a bolt on ride plate and shoe. No machining in a shoe, its four or five holes to drill in the intake and two in the bowl for the cradle. The whole setup from hi-tech only $236 bucks.

Are you talking about the "Add-on Shoe and Ride Plate Kits" for the JC & JG on this link? http://hi-techperformance.com/HPParts.HTM

Seems simple enough to tap and install.. Anyone have experience with one of these kits on their boat??

I certainly want to go as cheap as possible, but I'd rather spend a little more for the right setup if it'll fix my problem the 1st time

« **Reply #30 on:** January 30, 2009, 01:00:49 PM »

I put one on my boat, hardest thing was drilling and tapping the holes in the intake, not easy lying under the boat. I got some in kind of crooked. although they don't stick below the surface of the shoe. I haven't had time to really check it out since some engine issues sidelined my testing, but first impressions were this: At lower speeds, up to 30 or so, the boat seemed to drift at the ass end a little more than it used to, not much but noticeble, turns tighter with the plate. At higher speeds it tracks a lot straighter even with the jet up and turns a lot sharper at speed, almost lost the cooler and refreshments at one point where before it would make a much more sweeping turn, can't really tell you about how the ride changed since I wasn't out in the chop. Had it set at 4 degrees up, was going to play around with it, but again was cut short. Don't know if it helped or hurt speed any since I had a new engine in the boat before I took it out with the plate, one of these days I'll take it off and see what difference it makes.

« **Reply #31 on:** February 06, 2009, 08:09:34 PM »

Got in late on this and probably havent read enough (so forgive the redundacy) but "bolt on shoes"

,PITA and IMO potentialy dangerous, shoe and loaders can only be safely and efffectively "added and adjusted" with carefull machining and "measuring" ,were happy to help . Re instant performance gains , the hands down winner is trim (Diverter,Place or Turbine ) always a good investment ,never had a complaint or regret , Split bowls give your boat "adjustability" more than anything else ,eg The ability to add wedges , nozzle adaptors like droops , snoots etc ,a great "tuning tool" Hope this helps a little Tom

re "inducers" , by no means a "panacea" they too have thier place and application too ! We (JBP) try to help you buy and "apply" whats going to help you and work for you and your application , not just "fill your shopping cart " and bang your credit card

« **Reply #32 on:** May 04, 2009, 03:22:15 PM »

Just a little update, I ended up putting a set of step-n-trim's on the boat and measured them at 1/8" down and put on a standard berk "Sports Edition loader scoop" to replace my rock grate.. The combination of the two made a world of difference in the ride of the boat.. So I might have lost 5mph on the top end, but it's well worth the smoother ride..

« **Reply #33 on:** May 04, 2009, 06:06:04 PM »

Dunno why or how I missed this whole thread. I have uncovered similar problems with The Moo. (78 Rebel). Interested in seeing how you solved them, though I'm running a JE pump, not a JC. On smooth water, which until Sunday at Saguaro is all it has really seen, runs out great.

Boat beat the living hell outta us Sunday. Got up this morning and felt like I played in the Super Bowl with no helmet or pads, lol. Could not really run the thing above 3000 rpm and at that low speed rides the bow pretty high. Too many wake barges! (Damn things so big they should only be used offshore, and they all were trying to set speed records I think

) But we saw more than our share of 2+ footers (Aired the boat out once, THAT was exciting). Didn't have much of a problem with it at Bartlett, much better ride. Maybe the current and narrowness of the lake has a lot to do with that.

Gonna go check this hook/rocker thing out, although the boat has not spent extended time on a trailer, maybe it's a common problem with the Sleekcrafts.

Gonna keep this boat off THAT lake until I figure this one out! We'll take the Bisemeyer from now on up there, it'd prolly ride fine(Hydraulic place and ride plates), and it did for my buddies last weekend.

Ray

« **Reply #34 on:** May 04, 2009, 11:39:19 PM »

Quote from: IRRebel on May 04, 2009, 06:06:04 PM

Dunno why or how I missed this whole thread. I have uncovered similar problems with The Moo. (78 Rebel). Interested in seeing how you solved them, though I'm running a JE pump, not a JC. On smooth water, which until Sunday at Saguaro is all it has really seen, runs out great.

Boat beat the living hell outta us Sunday. Got up this morning and felt like I played in the Super Bowl with no helmet or pads, lol. Could not really run the thing above 3000 rpm and at that low speed rides the bow pretty high. Too many wake barges! (Damn things so big they should only be used offshore, and they all were trying to set speed records I think ) But we saw more than our share of 2+ footers (Aired the boat out once, THAT was exciting). Didn't have much of a problem with it at Bartlett, much better ride. Maybe the current and narrowness of the lake has a lot to do with that.

Gonna go check this hook/rocker thing out, although the boat has not spent extended time on a trailer, maybe it's a common problem with the Sleekcrafts.

Gonna keep this boat off THAT lake until I figure this one out! We'll take the Bisemeyer from now on up there, it'd prolly ride fine(Hydraulic place and ride plates), and it did for my buddies last weekend.

Ray

Yep, exact same.. From what a couple people have mentioned, the sleekcraft rebel (mine is an '81) has rocker built into the hull and has shallow 15 deg vee.. so it will never be a completely smooth ride.. From what I read around here is a ride plate typically is positioned up, so it actually helps create a little bit of rocker to get the boat out of the water. The rebel already has rocker, so I think that would make the condition worse?? The combination of the loader grate, place diverter & trim tabs (cav plates) all helped significantly. a day on the river in parker used to beat the crap out of me.. the boat cuts and skims over the wakes without cavitating or wanting to fly on me and body slam from the top rope now.. even with the huge ocean boats blowing past me.. There were probably 2 instances all day that I slammed a little on a bigger wake.. but, it was a smooth ride all day for the most part..

« **Reply #35 on:** May 04, 2009, 11:57:12 PM »

OK, I'm convinced. Post some pics of what you did. I'll probably take the boat for these professionally installed (Tom, the boats coming to you that means). But the JE already has a ride plate, non-adjustable, but I'm too old to take this kind of abuse. I need to be able to open this byatch up at will.

So I was right, it's a design issue. That makes eense. Lord, please forgive me for dropping this kinda horsepower into this thing!!!!

Ray

« **Reply #36 on:** May 05, 2009, 10:45:29 AM »

Will do, I'll take pics of it tonight when I get home.. Some nicely installed cav plate's would probably look alot better than my step-n-trim's, I was on cheap budget

« **Reply #37 on:** May 06, 2009, 08:46:55 PM »

Here are the step-n-trim's, diverter and the loader grate I added.

« **Reply #38 on:** May 06, 2009, 09:04:08 PM »

Hmmmmm, Maybe an optical illusion, but that loader looks deep to me. $:-\$

GT

« **Reply #39 on:** May 06, 2009, 09:11:38 PM »

Looks good! Boat looks familiar, lol. Now remove the engine cover, get some OT's and paint it like a farm animal and we're talking!

My Tax guys are simply perplexed and calling the IRS about 4 times a day (Most of you know my weird situation, can't blame them), so I'm tired of waiting, gonna pull the trigger on a diverter for it next week and see if that cures it any. If Uncle Sam needs more mula from me, he's gonna have to wait in line, lol

Thought about the loader and Cav Plates, but let's try this and see. Like I said, I could find very little rocker (Less than 1/16") anywhere, and no hook, on the Moo boat with an 8 foot level.

Funny thing is it seems to me to be a deeper V than my Saguaro which Omar swears handles chop very well. But, it does have the tanks mounted clear to the rear, which the Saguaro does not, and I'm assuming mine is the same as yours having a foam filled bow, which the Saguaro does not. (That's the next one, plans to pull it from it's trailer and get going on it next weekend, if my help doesn't Skip out on me).

Ray

« **Reply #40 on:** May 06, 2009, 09:28:17 PM »

Yeah, the bow is foam filled also.. she's looking pretty greasy right now, figured i was going to make sure the boat ran before I cleaned it up

The diverter did help the ride a little and getting on plane fast without the bow pointing straight up while it works to get on plane.. But, the diverter didn't help the tendency of the boat wanting to fly up and slam over wakes in my case, but there was rocker near the transom, so hopefully to don't have to spring for cav plates also.. I hope it works out!!

« **Reply #41 on:** May 06, 2009, 09:45:51 PM »

Looks like good work! Dunno if Glenn is right about the loader being "deep" or not, he knows more than me.

As far as getting on plane, I'm pushing quite a bit of HP (Machine shop and assembler are guessing around 525 to 550, Assometer confirms this is probably pretty accurate, but I don't know boats, could be more. Gonna drag one o dem on a run one day to see what they think), and a quick blip of the throttle for a few seconds gets her up on plane pretty much immediately. The AA Impeller is all that slows that holeshot process down, I beleive, takes it a second or two to load up.

Just need to figure out the best combination for its ride in rough water!

Ray

« **Reply #42 on:** May 07, 2009, 01:52:37 PM »

Quote from: GT Jets on May 06, 2009, 09:04:08 PM

Hmmmmm, Maybe an optical illusion, but that loader looks deep to me. $:-\$

GT

Not quite sure what you mean, you think it looks too deep into the hull?

« **Reply #43 on:** May 07, 2009, 06:08:15 PM »

Quote from: dm2bfree on May 07, 2009, 01:52:37 PM

Not quite sure what you mean, you think it looks too deep into the hull?

If you could take a straight edge to the bottom across the intake the loader shoul be slightly above the keel of the hull, yours looks as though it is below.

If it is below, we call that "deep" if it is way above the keel, we call that "shallow", too deep and it takes too big of a bite, causes poor handling and possible overloading, too shallow and it does an inadequate job of loading and can cause some cavitation issues.....

I dont know where the ideal height is anymore but we used to set that type up to be about 1/8" above the keel.....Just depends on the train of thought.

Also, bolt selection is very important, have heard horror stories of these badboys coming off, use black oxide hardened bolts and thru bolt them through the intake and nuts on the top side...

GT

« **Reply #44 on:** May 08, 2009, 01:27:59 PM »

I'll check it out.. So do you mean the grate (in the middle) being 1/8" above the keel or the actual loaders sticking down on the sides? I think it may be a touch below the keel remembering off hand, if it is how would I go about correcting that? get a different loader?

Also, regarding the bolts, I will change them out.. I put stainless in there, that's what they were with the rock grate, but the loader would seem to have a lot more pressure on it.. It's going to be a pain in the a$$ to bolt them through with the oil pan hanging so low over the intake..

« **Reply #45 on:** May 13, 2009, 03:23:25 PM »

BTW, does anyone know the size or length of bolts I should use the bolt the through the intake?

dm2bfree

GT Jets

fast fred

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