Packing Ring Removal.

« **on:** April 11, 2015, 08:14:01 AM »

1st of all, I wanted to say "Hello" as I am new to the jet boat world and new to the site. So with that being said, please excuse my lack of knowledge.

I have a 12jf that is leaking pretty severely through the packing rings, without removing and rebuilding the whole jet pump I was attempting to replace the packing rings. I have removed the packing Gland and did manage to dig out 1 of the old rings, but as you can pretty much guess, they were packed in pretty tight. Does anyone have a suggestion how to get these old packing rings out without going to extremes.

Griz

« **Reply #1 on:** April 11, 2015, 09:10:40 AM »

http://www.lislecorp.com/divisions/products/?product=134

How I have done it.

Also, a little heat on the outer housing never hurts. Use a heat gun to get the fat part around the packing to about 200°F.

Good hunting.
GT

« **Reply #2 on:** April 11, 2015, 09:42:43 AM »

Thanks GT, was just at the hardware store and was thinking of a screw extracter, doesn't really matter the direction of the threads, but I never thought of a cork screw. I take it this 27000 sneaky pete is a finer version of a actual cork screw? And if the doesn't hurt anything, that is a great tip as well. I was almost ready to take the boat to the lake and back it in and leave it on the trailer and start the bilge pumps and then start the engine leaving it in neutral and seeing if it would blow the packing rings out.

I will try the cork screw and heat 1st and will give feed back what the outcome is.

Thanks again,
Griz

« **Reply #3 on:** April 11, 2015, 10:34:15 AM »

Quote from: Grizler on April 11, 2015, 09:42:43 AM

Thanks GT, was just at the hardware store and was thinking of a screw extracter, doesn't really matter the direction of the threads, but I never thought of a cork screw. I take it this 27000 sneaky pete is a finer version of a actual cork screw? And if the doesn't hurt anything, that is a great tip as well. I was almost ready to take the boat to the lake and back it in and leave it on the trailer and start the bilge pumps and then start the engine leaving it in neutral and seeing if it would blow the packing rings out.

I will try the cork screw and heat 1st and will give feed back what the outcome is.

Thanks again,
Griz

That area is under suction, not pressure.

Interesting thinking process though.

The Sneaky Pete was developed for replacing two piece rear main seals without having to pull the crankshaft.

No tool box should be without one.

GT

« **Reply #4 on:** April 11, 2015, 10:41:59 AM »

Now that you mention it, I guess that area would have a LOT of suction. What is interesting is how much water was coming in.

« **Reply #5 on:** April 12, 2015, 08:22:06 AM »

I have used these pullers at work on packing glands with much success.

Sent from my iPhone using SoCal Jet Boats

« **Reply #6 on:** April 12, 2015, 08:30:29 AM »

While you have them out add a zerk... keeps em lubed up.

« **Reply #7 on:** April 12, 2015, 10:18:08 AM »

Interesting how often do you add grease, seams like grease would not go pass the packing to the shaft. Does it still drip? And how often. Berkley says one drip a minute mine drips a lot more than that.

« **Reply #8 on:** April 12, 2015, 10:32:10 AM »

Thanks Jbrundahl, figured that Grangers would have something, but we don't have a Grangers locally here. But I did find the Sneaky Pete that GT mentioned at a Carquest here, but have not had the opportunity to give it a try yet. I will try it 1st and hopefully it will work for me, If not I might have to order the one from Grangers.

Nice "Your Mom", I have a hard time imagining as tightly packed as the packing rings are in there that any grease could penetrate through to keep them lubed, great idea if the grease would actually get in there. Anyone else have any experience with this?

Griz

« **Reply #9 on:** April 12, 2015, 11:49:33 AM »

I add just enough a couple times a season till theirs tension on the gun....Not that much at all an I have no drip. Just like water, if it can make it past the rings to drip so can the grease into its place. On my 3rd season since my pump rebuild with this zerk an no drip since.

« **Reply #10 on:** April 12, 2015, 12:39:49 PM »

sweet, thanks for the tip

« **Reply #11 on:** April 12, 2015, 12:48:52 PM »

Hmmmmmmmm.

« **Reply #12 on:** April 12, 2015, 01:08:27 PM »

Newbie here. Not sure if I should start new thread, but how often should the gland be adjusted? Check every time out, or a couple times a season. Also best way to adjust

« **Reply #13 on:** April 12, 2015, 01:22:15 PM »

Quote from: seapat on April 12, 2015, 01:08:27 PM

Newbie here. Not sure if I should start new thread, but how often should the gland be adjusted? Check every time out, or a couple times a season. Also best way to adjust

Adjust as needed.

Just monitor the engine off, in the water leak rate.

You should see a drip every couple minutes at least.

To adjust, with the boat in the water, tighten the bolts one at a time about half a turn each until you slow the leak rate to the above.

I'm not sure how I feel about the grease thing. I use carbon graphite infused Teflon rings. Not sure grease would be good.

GT

« **Reply #14 on:** April 12, 2015, 01:25:55 PM »

Thanks GT

Grizler

Packing Ring Removal.

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Your Mom

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Your Mom

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