pump help

« **on:** March 15, 2014, 08:19:50 PM »

Alright so I replaced my u joints and moved the motor but still have and hear a vibration is the anyone in or around SanBernardinoCA. Who could give me a hand I'll pay or buy beer I just wanna be on the water for my b day in April thankyou

« **Reply #1 on:** March 15, 2014, 08:25:12 PM »

Quote from: monster burb on March 15, 2014, 08:19:50 PM

Alright so I replaced my u joints and moved the motor but still have and hear a vibration is the anyone in or around SanBernardinoCA. Who could give me a hand I'll pay or buy beer I just wanna be on the water for my b day in April thankyou

Can you describe the vibration? also, in water? stainless impeller?

« **Reply #2 on:** March 15, 2014, 08:25:22 PM »

Could be a bent shaft or debris in impeller. Do you hear the vibration so to speak on trailer or in water. If on trailer and the shaft is hooked up it could make a grumble and if the shaft end is worn...at idle you will hear it till it hooks up upon trust. Explain when and how details....

« **Reply #3 on:** March 16, 2014, 05:55:11 PM »

I have not got to take the boat out yet I hear the noise on the trailer and your right it sounds like a grumbling. Noise sort of I check the impeller. It's clear looks new sometimes when I start it I'd disentangle do it right away

« **Reply #4 on:** March 16, 2014, 07:00:55 PM »

Go for a run in the lake...It might be just that.

« **Reply #5 on:** March 16, 2014, 08:06:40 PM »

Dose anybody else boat do that out of water?

« **Reply #6 on:** March 16, 2014, 09:01:47 PM »

Disconnect your drive when you want to run it on the trailer... I used to run mine for a quick burst or for adjustments with pump still attached on trailer...and yes it made a grumble at idle. If you cant disconnect the drive due to a 3pt mount then wash out the pump before starting and run water thru it while is running. I had a zerk added to the packing gland area to help keep them lubed always.

« **Reply #7 on:** March 16, 2014, 09:10:56 PM »

Dumb question... How "straight" is your driveline? Too straight is not a good thing.

GT

« **Reply #8 on:** March 17, 2014, 06:40:34 AM »

My boat makes a loud vibration noise when at about 1,000-1,100 RPMS. Anything lower or higher it makes no noise. This sound is heard on and off the trailer. It's really annoying. Talked to the guys at Berkely and he said if the spline shaft your universal slides onto is a little worn or the universal is a little worn that it's probably chattering because it's not a tight fit. Pump operates just fine in the water no loss of power. Just thought I would throw that out there.

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« **Reply #9 on:** March 17, 2014, 07:07:21 AM »

Crankshaft and pump shaft should be parallel with about .5 - 3 degrees of angle in drive line

« **Reply #10 on:** March 17, 2014, 09:12:59 AM »

How would I find the angle I've never done anything like that before

« **Reply #11 on:** March 17, 2014, 11:33:39 AM »

Quote from: monster burb on March 17, 2014, 09:12:59 AM

How would I find the angle I've never done anything like that before

A little difficult to do with an existing system. The drive line should be perfectly straight from side to side, but offset by about 1/4" top to bottom.

When I say offset, I mean equally, meaning the joint caps should all measure out the sane a far as from one joint to another.

I will try to post a better description later.

GT

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« **Reply #12 on:** March 17, 2014, 11:35:23 AM »

http://www.4xshaft.com/driveline101.asp

Read this...

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« **Reply #13 on:** March 17, 2014, 12:04:27 PM »

Get guys thank-you for all you input and help I'm going to see what I can do and post it later to let you know what happen

« **Reply #14 on:** March 17, 2014, 03:29:43 PM »

If you grab the driveline at the shaft area and are able to wiggle it a good amount then you have a worn spline. This is where you would get the noise from at idle(not 100% but more than likely). You can buy a cheapo angle finder/dial from harbor freight...measure the block, then pump to ensure they are parallel. Line the drive top up to a flat area/ bearing cap and set it on there( the inner part of the drive cause that's where the angle will be). My shaft has some wear and I slide a zerk needle in the side(where the drive goes into pump) and give it a few squirts before every trip. Your drive will/should have a weep hole in or around the end covering the pump shaft...this is where it will ooze out.

« **Reply #15 on:** March 17, 2014, 07:51:36 PM »

I have a zerk fitting on there already I'm going to try and run it at silverwood if they let me that's the closest lake to me I'm hoping it's just cause it's out of the water I have yet to do the angle. Hopefully. All goes well and I can get out on the river

« **Reply #16 on:** March 17, 2014, 08:19:51 PM »

You should have one on top of your thrust bearing but having one at the packing gland would be added later. That area could suffer some damage to a dry run and will start leaking into your hull/cause cavitation as its life span starts to get shortened.

« **Reply #17 on:** March 17, 2014, 08:31:19 PM »

OK so what about the zerk where the shaft goes into the pump is it not the same sorry I don't know a whole lot about pumps also there is a good amount of shims on there what would be the purpose of that

« **Reply #18 on:** March 17, 2014, 09:13:26 PM »

I will take a pic of mine tomorrow to show the one on the dr side behind packing gland cover/tightener. The zerk on the top is for your thrust bearing and use a good marine grease or like red n tacky/lucas. I give my thrust a light squirt before every trip, my bowl/driveline zerks a bit every 3-4 trips. The packing gland usually will have 4-5 rope type pieces shoved in there. Usually installed with grease but having the zerk for routine service will prolong them.

« **Reply #19 on:** March 18, 2014, 08:43:24 AM »

Here's a pick of the gland zerk and then both the thrust and gland...

« **Reply #20 on:** March 18, 2014, 10:19:15 AM »

OK I see what your saying would I have to pull the pump apart to do this I'm assuming so Seine I'd be drilling into it right

« **Reply #21 on:** March 18, 2014, 07:53:50 PM »

Its not necessary... but if you need to replace your packing that would be a good time. The gland cover will come off without taking pump apart but if it's not leaking leave it alone. If it has a steady drip while floating, give each side equal 1/4 at a time turns. You can damage or push it out by over tightening. This area as well the impeller/wear ring can be damaged due to dry starts/debris.

« **Reply #22 on:** March 19, 2014, 06:24:12 PM »

Gotcha I make sure to run water threw the pump when I fire it on the trailer I appreciate the help I just wanna make sure everything is on the up and up when I take it out last time I got a boat it ran tits put on in at willow valley got out of the Marina and motor blew

monster burb

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