So how hard is it to really rebuild a pump I've read alot an it seems hard but at the same time it dosnt also another question would be what's the difference between a cuts b an c ab an all the rest on the impeller that's in advance guys

Sent from sitting on the toilet

If it is just simply restoring the performance by replacing impeller and wear ring, it's pretty straight forward if there are no issues with the bowl and suction.

When you get into the need for special tools/equipment:  Changing the thrust bearing will require a press.  A lathe will be required for cutting your impeller down and for turning the shaft for an inducer.  I strongly recommend a mill for double drilling the bowl and suction, however it can be done in a drill press.  Do not try to double drill with a hand drill, it never works out.

Do you have any rubbing or other issues or is it just tired?  Post pics.

Good luck,

Joe

I believe it's just tired theirs no sounds coming from it I havnt pulled it apart yet just wanted to see how hard it would be it's a 12jc berk last trip out with it I lost a hell of alot of power at least I could tell somewhat theirs alot of things I wanna do I was thinking while it's apart I might a well throw a diverter on it get it powder coated an blah blah blah I just was wondering what impeller I should run but idk what's in their

Sent from sitting on the toilet

What hull and horsepower?  Are you thinking stainless impeller?  What kind of boating do you do and where?  If you typically boat in water that is dirty (lots of abrasives) or if you like to drive on/off the beach, tightening the clearance to the extreme isn't advisable.  Also a bronze wear ring will wear out quickly.  Stainless will live longer but will not tolerate being run on the trailer.

It's a 75 sanger super jet an horsepower I really have no idea I would like to know haha anyone got a dyno haha an this is what it looks like as of now an how I got it it looks gross in my opinion

Sent from sitting on the toilet

You can detail your aluminum impeller and make it badass if the wear surface isn't too undersized.

A stainless wear ring will give you the most options for clearance and greatest longevity.

Forgot to mention that you will need an acetylene torch to get the wear ring out.  You will also need at least an 8" caliper to measure the wear surface of the impeller.

When we rebuild a pump, it depends...

The bearing is expensive however, my opinion is that it is cheap compared to a failure.  If it fails, the suction can be destroyed.  It can also cause engine failure allowing the the shaft to push the drive line and crankshaft against the engine thrust bearing, destroying the engine as well as the pump.  Simply not worth it.

If your bearing is good, there is no reason to change it.  If you do, get a Koyo bearing and install it with the notches towards the engine.

If your wear ring measures out within tolerance, also no reason to change it.

Chances are, your packings should be replaced.  Check the seals, but again, I think it's cheap insurance.

Check your shaft and bowl bushings for excessive wear.  Also check your shaft splines (and yoke) for wear and twist.  The yoke should slide easily without binding.

If your impeller has any dings, that will kill performance manifesting itself as increased RPM and the feeling of slipping.  Small dings can be dressed out.  If you have chunks missing, it will need to be replaced.

Sorry, I am chatty today.  Anyway, if you feel mechanically inclined, I would recommend trying.  You will develop more of a oneness with your boat.